2020 Washington State Vintage

Budbreak began in mid-April, well aligned with historical averages. Part of the year's story was already written, though: the Washington State Wine Commission reported that the smaller 2020 crop was attributed in part to the series of freeze events in October 2019, which many farmers say led to smaller canopies and yields the following season. Bloom was slightly advanced, beginning in the third week of May, and wind and rain at that moment contributed to some shatter, reducing cluster and crop size in some regions. Summer held steady. Late July and early August brought some heat spikes, but overall it was a fairly moderate, even summer. Farmers across the state reported smaller berry size and extended hang time, which in Washington is traditionally a recipe for high-quality wines. Harvest began the third week of August, about a week ahead of long-term averages but well aligned with many recent years, and a hot start to September prompted feverish picking of early-ripening varieties. The interruption came in the second week of September 2020, when significant wildfire smoke arrived and paused harvest for nearly 10 days. The smoke layer stalled sugar accumulation and pushed harvest of some varieties into cooler parts of September and October. The crop came in at 178,500 tons, an 11 percent decrease compared with 2019, which had itself been a reduced 201,000-ton harvest. A mid-season projection had put the 2020 crop at 260,000 tons, far above the roughly 179,000 tons that were actually picked.

• Budbreak mid-April, well aligned with historical averages
• Bloom slightly advanced from the third week of May, with wind and rain causing some shatter
• Heat spikes in late July and early August within an otherwise moderate, even summer
• Smaller berry size and extended hang time reported across the state
• Harvest began the third week of August, about a week ahead of long-term averages
• Significant wildfire smoke arrived the second week of September and paused harvest for nearly 10 days
• 178,500 tons picked, down 11 percent from 2019 and far below a mid-season projection of 260,000 tons

The September smoke did two measurable things before anyone could assess taint: it paused picking for nearly 10 days and it stalled sugar accumulation, which pushed some varieties into cooler October conditions. Assessment took longer. Reporting in The Spokesman-Review on October 18, 2020 described the state as being in a wait-and-see period with harvest underway, with vintners sending grape samples to Washington State University and outside labs for smoke-taint analysis. Tom Collins, a WSU associate professor of viticulture and enology, led a smoke-exposure research program using particle counters in the Yakima and Columbia valleys, with results expected within one to three weeks of that report. Steve Warner, president of the Washington State Wine Commission, said at the time that it was really too soon to tell. The clearest single outcome came the following June, when Betz Family Winery, based in the Woodinville area with vineyards in Walla Walla and the Yakima Valley, announced it would not release a 2020 vintage at all because of smoke taint, the first time it had skipped a vintage since its 1997 founding. Warner characterized that as an isolated case rather than a widespread one across roughly 1,000 Washington wineries. The overall effect of smoke taint across Washington in 2020 was described as much lower than what was seen in California and especially Oregon that year, even as individual producers were significantly affected.

• Smoke paused harvest nearly 10 days and stalled sugar accumulation in the second week of September
• Vintners sent samples to WSU and outside labs; WSU's Tom Collins ran particle counters in the Yakima and Columbia valleys
• Commission president Steve Warner, mid-October 2020: too soon to tell on smoke-exposure impact
• Betz Family Winery skipped its 2020 vintage entirely, its first skipped vintage since 1997
• Washington's overall smoke impact was described as much lower than California's and especially Oregon's

Washington harvested 178,500 tons of wine grapes in 2020, an 11 percent decrease from 2019. Cabernet Sauvignon again led at 52,000 tons, or 29 percent of the total, with Chardonnay second at 28,100 tons, or 16 percent. Riesling, Merlot and Syrah rounded out a top five that together accounted for more than 80 percent of the crop. Red varieties held at roughly 60 percent of total production for a fourth consecutive year. Every published variety saw a production decrease except Riesling, which rose slightly against 2019. Growers were paid an average of $1,495 per ton, up $180 over 2019, with Cabernet Franc drawing the highest average price at $2,167 per ton. Steve Warner attributed the smaller harvest to many factors, naming the 2019 freeze events, the wind and rain at bloom, the smoke events, and varied levels of business concerns related to COVID-19.

• 178,500 tons harvested, an 11 percent decrease from 2019
• Cabernet Sauvignon led at 52,000 tons or 29 percent; Chardonnay second at 28,100 tons or 16 percent
• Red varieties held at roughly 60 percent of production for a fourth consecutive year
• Every published variety declined except Riesling, which rose slightly
• Average price rose $180 to $1,495 per ton, with Cabernet Franc highest at $2,167 per ton
• COVID-19 business concerns were among the factors the commission cited for the smaller crop

The early read on the wines was better than the season's headlines suggested. Despite the smaller crop, the Washington State Wine Commission reported that early feedback on the 2020 wines was that they were showing excellent balance and structure. The vineyard conditions behind that read were the smaller berry size and extended hang time farmers reported across the state, a combination that has traditionally produced high-quality wine in Washington. The smoke question was resolved producer by producer rather than statewide, with at least one estate declining to release anything from the vintage while the broader impact came in well below what California and Oregon saw. No source consulted offered drinking windows or cellaring guidance, so none are given here.

• The commission reported early feedback that the 2020 wines showed excellent balance and structure
• Smaller berries and extended hang time are traditionally a high-quality combination in Washington
• Smoke outcomes varied by producer rather than following a single statewide verdict
• No drinking windows were offered by the sources consulted