2020 Washington State Vintage

Budbreak began in mid-April, in line with historical averages. Part of the year's outcome had been set the previous autumn: a series of freeze events in October 2019, which many farmers say led to smaller canopies and yields in 2020, was one cause of the smaller crop. Bloom was slightly advanced, beginning in the third week of May, and wind and rain at that moment contributed to some shatter, reducing cluster and crop size in some regions. Summer held steady: late July and early August brought some heat spikes, but overall it was a fairly moderate, even summer. Across the state, berries were smaller and hang time extended, traditionally a recipe for high-quality wines in Washington. Harvest began the third week of August, about a week ahead of long-term averages but well aligned with many recent years, and a hot start to September prompted feverish picking of early-ripening varieties. The interruption came in the second week of September 2020, when significant wildfire smoke arrived and paused harvest for nearly 10 days. The smoke layer stalled sugar accumulation and pushed harvest of some varieties into cooler parts of September and October. The crop came in at 178,500 tons, an 11 percent decrease from 2019, which had itself been a reduced 201,000-ton harvest.

• Budbreak mid-April, in line with historical averages
• Bloom slightly advanced from the third week of May, with wind and rain causing some shatter
• Heat spikes in late July and early August within an otherwise moderate, even summer
• Smaller berries and extended hang time across the state
• Harvest began the third week of August, about a week ahead of long-term averages
• Significant wildfire smoke arrived the second week of September and paused harvest for nearly 10 days
• 178,500 tons picked, down 11 percent from 2019

The September smoke did two measurable things: it paused picking for nearly 10 days and it stalled sugar accumulation, pushing some varieties into cooler parts of September and October. On October 18, 2020, with harvest underway, vintners were sending grape samples to labs for analysis, and Steve Warner, president of the Washington State Wine Commission, said: "So far, it's really too soon to tell." Tom Collins, associate professor of viticulture and enology at Washington State University, led WSU's smoke exposure research program and set up particle counters in the Yakima and Columbia valleys. In June 2021, Betz Family Winery, near Woodinville, told supporters it would not release a 2020 vintage because smoke taint had damaged the grapes, the first time it had not released a vintage since its founding in 1997. Betz owns two vineyards in Walla Walla and co-farms others between Walla Walla and the Yakima Valley. Washington is home to around 1,000 wineries, and Warner said of the case: "This is not widespread. It's isolated."

• Smoke paused harvest for nearly 10 days from the second week of September and stalled sugar accumulation
• WSU's Tom Collins set up particle counters in the Yakima and Columbia valleys
• Betz Family Winery did not release a 2020 vintage because of smoke taint, its first unreleased vintage since its 1997 founding

Washington harvested 178,500 tons of wine grapes in 2020, an 11 percent decrease from 2019. Cabernet Sauvignon again led at 52,000 tons, or 29 percent of the total, with Chardonnay second at 28,100 tons, or 16 percent. Riesling, Merlot and Syrah rounded out a top five that together accounted for more than 80 percent of the crop. Red varieties made up nearly 60 percent of total production for a fourth consecutive year. Every published variety saw a production decrease except Riesling, which rose slightly against 2019. Farmers received an average of $1,495 per ton, up $180 over 2019, with Cabernet Franc drawing the highest average price at $2,167 per ton. The smaller harvest had many causes: the October 2019 freeze events, wind and rain at bloom, several smoke events during harvest, and varied levels of business concerns related to COVID-19.

• 178,500 tons harvested, an 11 percent decrease from 2019
• Cabernet Sauvignon led at 52,000 tons or 29 percent; Chardonnay second at 28,100 tons or 16 percent
• Red varieties made up nearly 60 percent of production for a fourth consecutive year
• Every published variety declined except Riesling, which rose slightly
• Average price rose $180 to $1,495 per ton, with Cabernet Franc highest at $2,167 per ton
• COVID-19 business concerns were among the factors behind the smaller crop

Despite the smaller crop, Steve Warner of the Washington State Wine Commission reported that early feedback from winemakers had the 2020 wines showing excellent balance and structure. Behind that read sat the smaller berries and extended hang time seen across the state, traditionally a recipe for high-quality wine in Washington.

• Early winemaker feedback relayed by the commission: 2020 wines showing excellent balance and structure
• Smaller berries and extended hang time are traditionally a recipe for high-quality wine in Washington