2008 Sonoma Vintage

The year was one of extremes: frost, drought, strong winds, heat waves and even smoke from fires across the state. Instead of the usual steady winter-into-spring rain, the county was deluged in December and January. The rain ended in February, cover crops and then vines drew down the stored soil moisture, and dry soils needed irrigation as early as April and May. A record dry March made things worse. Bud break arrived around March 1, two weeks earlier than normal and just before the first frost of the season, and a second severe frost hit in late March. Vineyards with frost protection came through quite well; those without sustained significant damage. Bloom arrived in April. In Alexander Valley, daily temperatures swung by as much as 60°F on several days during bloom and set, and for Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon the extreme temperatures reduced the number of berries per cluster and left berries quite small. In the Russian River Valley, April frost damaged shoots and flower clusters despite wind machines and sprinklers, with significant crop reduction. Strong winds in May damaged tender shoots for many growers. In mid-June, heavy lightning touched off fires around California, and smoky haze sat over the county and filtered sunlight for nearly three weeks. A short heat spike in June was followed by fairly mild July and early August temperatures. Warmer areas such as Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley kept irrigating, while the Russian River Valley saw an unusual number of fog-free days. Harvest arrived early across the county, with some varieties ripening a week or two ahead of normal. The first fruit was Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir for sparkling wine, and picking lasted well into October. The Commission summed up the year as lower crop levels but terrific quality.

• Winter and spring: heavy December and January rain, then a record dry March; dry soils needed irrigation as early as April and May
• Bud break around March 1, two weeks early, followed by frost then and again in late March; April frost hit Russian River Valley shoots and flower clusters
• Mid-June: lightning fires around California left smoky haze over the county for nearly three weeks; a short June heat spike, then a fairly mild July and early August
• Harvest: early, starting in early August with Pinot Noir for sparkling wine and running well into October, on lower crop levels

Grapes started coming off in Dry Creek Valley around August 25. A sustained heat spell from August 25 to 28 accelerated ripening there, and Bevill Vineyard Management began hand picking at night, committing half its hand crews under lights; by September 12 the weather broke. At Gundlach Bundschu in Sonoma Valley, Gewürztraminer was the first fruit off the vine on August 26, followed by a lull of about two and a half weeks before picking resumed and lasted until October 30. At Chalk Hill Winery, Pinot Gris arrived August 28, about two weeks earlier than average, and Syrah and Bordeaux varieties stayed on the vine until the end of October, finishing October 30. In Carneros, Buena Vista Carneros began with Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir on September 4. Russian River Valley Pinot Noir began September 8 at Hopkins River Ranch, where Bob Hopkins called it one of the earliest harvests he had seen there, and La Crema's estate vineyards harvested for 25 days, finishing October 21. At Clos du Bois in Alexander Valley, much of the red fruit came in after September 15, and in Knights Valley, Knights Bridge Vineyards kept Cabernet Sauvignon on the vine until mid-October.

• Dry Creek Valley: picking from around August 25; an August 25 to 28 heat spell sped ripening, night picking followed, and the weather broke by September 12
• Sonoma Valley and Chalk Hill: Gewürztraminer August 26 and Pinot Gris August 28, with both harvests finishing October 30
• Carneros and Russian River Valley: Buena Vista Carneros started September 4; Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from September 8
• Alexander Valley and Knights Valley: much red fruit after September 15; Cabernet Sauvignon hung until mid-October

These are harvest-time impressions from November 2008, not later tasting notes. The Russian River Valley crop was down 15 to 20 percent, and La Crema's Hector Bedolla said: 'Less rain and a drier soil profile gave us small berries with extraordinary flavors.' At Chalk Hill, Mark Lingenfelder expected very ripe, rich white wines with good structure and acid balance, and called the reds stunningly ripe, rich and fruit-forward. Corey Beck of Francis Ford Coppola Presents Rosso & Bianco called 2008 excellent for Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. La Crema winemaker Melissa Stackhouse expected lush, fruit-intense Chardonnays from the Sonoma Coast and said Pinot Noir yields were down overall but quality was quite good. Bordeaux varieties fared particularly well in Knights Valley, where Tim Carl of Knights Bridge Vineyards described intense concentration and nice balance.

• Russian River Valley: crop down 15 to 20 percent, with small berries
• Whites: very ripe, rich wines with good structure expected at Chalk Hill; Coppola's Corey Beck called the year excellent for Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay
• Sonoma Coast: lush, fruit-intense Chardonnay expected, with lower Pinot Noir yields of quite good quality
• Knights Valley: Bordeaux varieties fared particularly well, with intense concentration and nice balance

Wine grapes, the county's largest crop, suffered from frost damage and hot, windy weather that affected fertilization in 2008. Grape yields sank for the third year in a row, and the value of grapes sold fell nearly 9 percent to $381 million. Across all Sonoma County agriculture, crop values fell 7 percent, driven by frost, high feed prices and a slowing national economy.

• Grape yields fell for the third straight year
• Value of Sonoma County grapes sold: down nearly 9 percent to $381 million
• Causes named for the grape shortfall: frost damage and hot, windy weather that affected fertilization