Wine Pairing with Washed Rind Cheese: What to Drink with Epoisses, Munster, and Taleggio

The history of washed rind cheese traces back to medieval European monasteries, where monks developed the technique of regularly bathing aging cheeses in brine, beer, wine, or spirits to prevent unwanted mould and concentrate flavour. This practice encouraged the growth of specific bacteria like Brevibacterium linens, which produce the compounds responsible for the characteristic strong smell and vivid orange-red rind. Famous examples from France include Époisses from Burgundy, washed in Marc de Bourgogne, and Munster from Alsace, whose rind is traditionally bathed in brine or local marc de Gewürztraminer.

• Époisses has been made in the village of the same name in Burgundy for over five centuries.
• Munster from Alsace is traditionally served with cumin seeds and a glass of local Gewürztraminer.
• Italian Taleggio from Lombardy is one of the mildest washed rind examples, making it a great introduction for the uninitiated.
• Reblochon from the French Alps must be aged in cellars or caves in the Savoy Mountains, which gives it a grassy, herbal character.

The washing process encourages the growth of Brevibacterium linens, a bacterium that produces sulfur compounds responsible for the cheese's famously assertive aroma. Despite smelling dramatically powerful, the paste of most washed rind cheeses is far milder in flavour than the nose suggests, often tasting sweet, creamy, and savory with a long umami finish. This disconnect between aroma and flavour is crucial for wine pairing: a wine needs to handle the aromatic challenge without being chosen purely on the basis of matching the intensity of the smell.

• Brevibacterium linens is the same bacterium responsible for human body odour, which explains some of the more pungent descriptors.
• The paste is typically much milder than the rind; eating without the rind produces a far less challenging flavour.
• Ripeness level is a critical pairing variable: a young Taleggio needs far less wine firepower than a ripe, runny Époisses.
• The salty rind can make tannic wines taste even more astringent and bitter, reinforcing why high-tannin reds should be avoided.

The principle of pairing regional wines with regional cheeses is intuitive and often reliable. Burgundy's Époisses with red or white Burgundy, Munster with Alsace Gewürztraminer, and Taleggio with northern Italian whites are all rooted in centuries of tradition. However, washed rind cheeses are one category where the regional rule has genuine limits: at full ripeness, Époisses can overwhelm even a fine Pinot Noir. In practice, the most successful pairings prioritise aromatic power and either fruit or sweetness over strict geographic adherence.

• Gewürztraminer from Alsace is the most universally successful partner for washed rind cheeses across all origins.
• Fruity Beaujolais is a crowd-pleasing compromise that works regionally with Époisses and cross-regionally with most other examples.
• White Burgundy (Chablis or village Mâconnais) provides a cleaner, fresher alternative that keeps the cheese's flavours in focus.
• Sauternes is a bold but highly successful contrast pairing, particularly with very ripe, intense examples.

Beyond the classic aromatic whites, washed rind cheeses respond well to a broader range of wine styles than most people expect. Sparkling wines work beautifully because bubbles and acidity cut the fat and refresh the palate between bites. Off-dry Mosel Riesling Auslese has been praised as an almost perfect partner for Époisses, with its vibrant acidity and residual sweetness providing a textbook contrast pairing. Even dry oloroso sherry, with its oxidative, nutty, savoury character, can engage brilliantly with the meatier, most intense washed rind examples.

• Traditional method sparkling wines (Crémant d'Alsace, Champagne Blanc de Noirs) use bubbles to cleanse the palate after each rich, fatty bite.
• Mosel Riesling Auslese offers residual sweetness and razor acidity that can stand up even to a very ripe Époisses.
• Dry oloroso sherry matches the oxidative, savoury, meaty notes in a washed rind cheese with remarkable harmony.
• Light, unoaked Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley provides a red wine option with minimal tannin and enough earthy, fruity character to bridge rather than clash.