Vin de Paille: Jura's Straw Wine

At the end of the 19th century 20,000 hectares of vines spread across the department, and at the end of that century the Jura vineyard was devastated by phylloxera. Arbois was recognised by the decree of 15 May 1936, and the Jura wine interprofession counts it as the first French AOC label, awarded in 1936; Côtes du Jura and L'Étoile were both recognised by the decree of 31 July 1937. Vin de Paille is a Jura particularity, made by drying selected bunches off the vine to reach high sugar levels in a rather humid and cold climate. The Pressée du Vin de Paille is celebrated in the Jura at the end of January.

• Arbois AOC was recognised by the decree of 15 May 1936; the Jura wine interprofession counts it as the first French AOC label
• Côtes du Jura and L'Étoile AOCs were both recognised by the decree of 31 July 1937
• Vin de Paille is a Jura particularity, made to reach high sugar levels in a rather humid and cold climate
• The Pressée du Vin de Paille is celebrated in the Jura at the end of January

The Jura wine region has a surface area of 2,000 hectares, a 2009 figure. The Arbois and Côtes du Jura area has a cool oceanic climate with continental influences: a wide annual temperature range around an average of 10.5°C, a hot and humid summer, and more than 1,000 millimetres of rain a year. In Arbois the autumn is generally sunny and dry but windy, and the relative dryness of that windy autumn favours the drying of grapes for Vin de Paille. Three appellations carry the Vin de Paille mention: Arbois, Côtes du Jura, and L'Étoile. L'Étoile is reserved for still white wines, and its name comes from the five hills around the village, forming the points of a star, and from the star-shaped pentacrine fossils found in its vineyards.

• Jura wine region: 2,000 hectares (2009 figure)
• Climate: cool oceanic with continental influences, an average around 10.5°C and more than 1,000mm of rain a year
• In Arbois, a dry, windy autumn favours the drying of Vin de Paille grapes
• L'Étoile is reserved for still white wines and covers 67 hectares

Chardonnay, Poulsard, and Savagnin are permitted for Vin de Paille in all three appellations, and Trousseau as well in Arbois and Côtes du Jura. Grapes are picked by hand in successive passes (tries), sound and at physiological maturity, and the finest bunches are selected and set aside to dry. Traditionally this drying took place on beds of straw, which gives the wine its name; racks or hanging the bunches are also allowed, with the bunches on small perforated crates, on racks, or on wires in dry, airy buildings that are not heated. This drying off the vine, called passerillage hors souche, lasts at least six weeks, with any heating of the air forbidden, and the drying typically runs for around three months. The dried grapes are pressed between Christmas and the end of February, giving 15 to 18 litres of must per 100kg of grapes, and at pressing the grapes must be above 320 and below 420 grams of sugar per litre of must. The must ferments slowly and stops naturally, giving a naturally sweet wine of 14.5 to 17% alcohol. The wine then ages until at least 15 November of the third year after the harvest, at least 18 months of it in wood; in Arbois and Côtes du Jura it may be sold from 1 December of that third year.

• Permitted grapes: Chardonnay, Poulsard (Ploussard), and Savagnin in all three appellations; Trousseau also in Arbois and Côtes du Jura, not in L'Étoile
• Drying: at least six weeks off the vine on straw, on racks, or hanging, in ventilated premises with no heating of the air
• Pressing: sugar above 320 and below 420 g/L of must; 15 to 18 litres of must per 100kg of grapes
• Ageing: until at least 15 November of the third year after the harvest, 18 months minimum in wood; in L'Étoile the wine is aged in small oak casks for three years

A 2015 Jura travel guide recommends ending a visit to Domaine Daniel Dugois in Arsures with a vin de paille made from Chardonnay, Trousseau, Savagnin, and Ploussard grapes picked at maturity and dried on trays until they resemble raisins. In 2009 Arbois produced about 500 hectolitres of Vin de Paille, Côtes du Jura about 450 hectolitres, and L'Étoile about 60 hectolitres.

• Domaine Daniel Dugois (Arsures): vin de paille from Chardonnay, Trousseau, Savagnin, and Ploussard, recommended in a 2015 travel guide
• Arbois: about 500 hectolitres of Vin de Paille in 2009
• Côtes du Jura: about 450 hectolitres of Vin de Paille in 2009
• L'Étoile: about 60 hectolitres of Vin de Paille in 2009

Vin de Paille is a traditional mention added to the name of the Arbois, Côtes du Jura, or L'Étoile appellation, not an appellation of its own. The AOC rules for Vin de Paille require hand-harvesting by tries, at least six weeks of drying off the vine on straw beds, on racks, or hanging, with any heating of the air forbidden, and ageing until at least 15 November of the third year after the harvest, 18 months of it in wood. The wine must reach at least 14% actual alcohol and at least 19% total alcohol, and its volatile acidity must stay below 25 milliequivalents per litre. The Vin de Paille yield is set at 20 hectolitres per hectare in all three appellations. The 62cl clavelin bottle is reserved for vin jaune alone, and Vin de Paille labels must state the vintage.

• A mention of three AOCs, Arbois, Côtes du Jura, and L'Étoile, not a standalone appellation
• Minimum 14% actual alcohol and 19% total alcohol; volatile acidity below 25 milliequivalents per litre
• Yield: 20 hectolitres per hectare
• Release from 1 December of the third year after the harvest in Arbois and Côtes du Jura; the vintage is mandatory on the label

Arbois is the homeland of Louis Pasteur, who owned a vine near the town. The CIVJ, the Jura wine interprofession, is based at Château Pécauld in Arbois. The Pressée du Vin de Paille is celebrated at the end of January, and the Percée du Vin Jaune, which the CIVJ calls the largest wine festival in France, is held on the first weekend of February each year.

• Arbois: Louis Pasteur's homeland; he owned a vine near the town
• CIVJ offices: Château Pécauld, Arbois
• Pressée du Vin de Paille: end of January
• Percée du Vin Jaune: first weekend of February

Primary sources (CIVJ and INAO cahiers des charges): https://www.jura-vins.com/le-voluptueux-vin-de-paille.htm, https://www.jura-vins.com/aoc-l-etoile.htm, https://extranet.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/PNO-CdcArbois-cn220210.pdf, https://extranet.inao.gouv.fr/fichier/PNO-cdcC%C3%B4tesduJURA-cn220210.pdf, https://www.jura-vins.com/medias/CDC_letoile11092011.pdf, https://www.jura-vins.com/medias/nos-vins/3-guide-vins-jura/VDJ-guide2015new-V2-Anglais.pdf, https://www.jura-vins.com/medias/documents-a-telecharger/docs-utiles/CIVJ_PLQ_Pro_2009_GB_web.pdf. Secondary source: https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/france/the-decanter-travel-guide-to-jura-france-2361/2/. Last verified 2026-10-04