Vin de Paille

Vin de Paille has been produced in the Jura since at least the 19th century and is considered one of the region's most prized specialty wines. The name literally means 'straw wine,' a reference to the traditional practice of drying harvested grapes on straw mats to concentrate their sugars before pressing. Today, only around three producers still use actual straw mats; most dry grapes on wooden racks or hang them in well-ventilated lofts. The village of Arlay has long been regarded as the heartbeat of Vin de Paille production, and the annual La Pressée du Vin de Paille festival, held there since 2008, celebrates the pressing of these dried grapes each winter. Similar straw wines appear in Alsace and at Hermitage in the Rhône Valley, but the Jura examples carry their own distinct identity.

• Traditional drying on straw mats gives the wine its name, though wooden racks are now more common
• Arlay is the historic center of production; the La Pressée festival launched there in 2008
• Straw wine traditions also exist in Alsace and Hermitage in the Rhône Valley
• Production has been documented in the Jura since at least the 19th century

Vin de Paille is produced within three Jura appellations: Arbois, Côtes du Jura, and L'Étoile. The Jura sits in eastern France at elevations ranging from 250 to 400 metres in the lower vineyard areas, with the Jura mountains rising well above 1,350 metres beyond. The climate is continental and cool, with a real risk of autumn frost, making it more aggressively cold than neighboring Burgundy. South-facing slopes and well-exposed terraces are essential for ripening grapes sufficiently for this style. Soils vary across the region, encompassing clay in lower flat areas, limestone at higher elevations, and scattered marl deposits throughout, all of which contribute to the mineral backbone found in the wines.

• Three AOC zones: Arbois, Côtes du Jura, and L'Étoile
• Continental, cool climate with autumn frost risk; colder than Burgundy
• Vineyards sit at 250-400 metres elevation on south-facing slopes
• Soils include clay, limestone, and marl depending on location

Four grape varieties are permitted for Vin de Paille: Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard (also called Ploussard), and Trousseau. After harvest, the grapes are dried for weeks or months, either on straw mats, wooden racks, or suspended in bunches, until they have lost significant moisture and their sugars have concentrated dramatically. Pressing these shriveled grapes is laborious and yields very little juice, which explains the strict maximum yield of just 20 hectoliters per hectare. The resulting wine must reach a minimum of 14% ABV and must age for at least three years, with 18 months of that time spent in wood. The finished wine carries residual sugar of 100 to 150 grams per liter and can reach up to 17% ABV.

• Permitted varieties: Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard, and Trousseau
• Maximum yield of 20 hl/ha reflects the dramatic juice loss during drying
• Minimum 14% ABV; residual sugar 100-150 g/L; can reach up to 17% ABV
• Mandatory aging of 3 years minimum, including 18 months in wood

Despite the tiny total production volume, a dedicated group of producers maintains the tradition of Vin de Paille in the Jura. Château d'Arlay and Caves Bourdy represent the historic heart of the style, rooted in the village of Arlay. Domaine Berthet-Bondet and Domaine Pignier are respected names across multiple Jura wine styles, including this one. Domaine Ganevat, one of the Jura's most celebrated estates for natural wine, also produces Vin de Paille. Château de Montbourgeau and Château de l'Étoile bring the L'Étoile appellation's character to the style, while Domaine de la Touraize rounds out the roster of committed producers keeping this centuries-old tradition alive.