2023 Washington State Vintage

The 2023 season carried a hangover from the one before it. Northwest Wine Report noted that 2022 ended with a cold snap in late December, and because that harvest ran so late the vines had not necessarily fully hardened off. Some appellations, notably Lake Chelan, saw significant damage and crop loss in 2023 as a result. Spring was cool and in some locations fairly wet, though Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley recorded just 1.5 inches of precipitation across March and April, against a Columbia Valley annual average of 6 to 8 inches. The cool start delayed bud break by roughly two weeks. Bud break began in the Columbia Valley on April 20, ran 10 to 14 days behind recent years in most regions, and was as much as three weeks behind in the Columbia Gorge. Mike Sauer reported general bud break at Red Willow on April 29, the latest since the cool years of 2010 and 2011. Then May turned. Temperatures ran well above average, and parts of the Yakima Valley set record highs for the dates of May 19 to 21. Sadie Drury said everything just took off. Sauer called it the fastest growth he had ever seen on wine grapes. Washington went from a delayed bud break to a slightly advanced bloom, which began in the Columbia Valley on May 22, only a handful of days behind recent hot vintages. James Mantone of Syncline Winery, sourcing across the Columbia Gorge, Horse Heaven Hills and Yakima Valley, said everything bloomed at the same time. June was hot in the Columbia Valley, putting the state on pace for record heat accumulation, and veraison started July 12 in the Columbia Valley, several days ahead of the prior decade's dates. July steadied out, still above average but without the run of triple-digit days that shuts vines down. One heat spike came August 14 to 16, when triple-digit temperatures crossed the Columbia Valley, described as not unprecedented but badly timed. Moderate September and October temperatures followed and stretched the season out. Kristina Kelley, executive director of the Washington State Wine Commission, said the beautiful fall weather allowed winegrowers and winemakers to pick fruit at their own pace. Drury, in her 16th vintage, called it probably her easiest, with no real extremes or major events. On volume, the annual Grape Production Report recorded 159,000 tons, a 34 percent decrease from 2022, but Kelley attributed the small crop mostly to forces in the local and national wine market rather than to the weather, citing the decline in the overall wine market, inventory management and changing consumer behavior. No Washington source consulted published a five-year average tonnage figure, so the comparison here is year over year.

• A late December 2022 cold snap caught vines that had not fully hardened off; Lake Chelan saw significant damage and crop loss in 2023
• Spring was cool and in places wet, though Red Willow Vineyard recorded only 1.5 inches across March and April
• Bud break began April 20 in the Columbia Valley, 10 to 14 days behind recent years and up to three weeks behind in the Columbia Gorge
• A warmer than average May, with record highs May 19 to 21 in parts of the Yakima Valley, caught the vines up; bloom began May 22 in the Columbia Valley
• June was hot and put the state on pace for record heat accumulation; veraison started July 12, ahead of the prior decade
• Triple-digit temperatures crossed the Columbia Valley August 14 to 16, then September and October turned moderate
• The crop came in at 159,000 tons, down 34 percent from 2022, attributed mostly to market forces rather than weather

Cabernet Sauvignon remained Washington's top variety in 2023 at 48,369 tons, or 30 percent of total production. Riesling took second at 24,357 tons, or 15 percent, followed by Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. Those top seven varieties accounted for 88 percent of the crop, and red varieties made up 59 percent of total production. Price moved the other way from volume: growers received an average of $1,542 per ton, up $172 over 2022, and Cabernet Franc had the highest average price per ton for the second year in a row.

• Cabernet Sauvignon led at 48,369 tons, 30 percent of total production
• Riesling was second at 24,357 tons, 15 percent, ahead of Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris
• The top seven varieties accounted for 88 percent of the crop; reds were 59 percent of production
• Average price rose to $1,542 per ton, up $172 over 2022
• Cabernet Franc had the highest average price per ton for the second consecutive year

Both sources consulted separate volume from quality in 2023. Kristina Kelley said the harvest was small yet quality was extremely high, that winegrowers were thrilled about the quality of the fruit, and that despite the small crop there would be plenty of world-class Washington wine from the vintage. She credited the moderate fall specifically: the extended hang time allowed the flavors to develop nicely, with good acid and balance throughout. Northwest Wine Report framed 2023 as an easy growing season, high quality and low stress, in deliberate contrast to the run of challenging vintages that preceded it. No source consulted offered drinking windows or cellaring guidance, so none are given here.

• The commission called the harvest small yet extremely high in quality, with plenty of world-class wine expected
• Extended hang time in the moderate fall let flavors develop with good acid and balance
• Northwest Wine Report framed the year as high quality and low stress after a run of difficult vintages
• No published drinking windows or cellaring guidance were available from the sources consulted