2020 Port & Douro Vintage

Dow's Quinta do Bomfim at Pinhao is Symington's barometer for conditions across the Douro. Winter and early spring rainfall was roughly in line with the average, but a particularly warm February, at least 2 degrees C above the 30-year average, brought budbreak at Bomfim on 3 March, three weeks earlier than usual. Flowering followed on 5 May, two weeks early. After three dry winters in a row, a warm spring with more rainfall ensured sufficient ground water for the rest of the growing season. At Bomfim every month apart from April was considerably warmer than the 30-year trend. Temperatures spiked in late June and July, the hottest July since 1931, when records began. Symington's report puts July 3.5 degrees C above the regional average, and records virtually no rain in June or July and heat waves in June, August and September. August was milder, with even and rapid ripening. Bomfim received 12.6 mm on 20 August, but three waves of high temperatures followed until mid-September. Facing the threat of berry dehydration, Symington began picking white grapes on 25 August and red grapes in earnest on 1 September. By early September, yields at some of its properties were up to 40 percent below its July forecasts.

• Winter and early spring rainfall roughly average; a February at least 2 degrees C above the 30-year average
• Budbreak at Bomfim on 3 March, three weeks early; flowering from 5 May, two weeks early
• Hottest July since 1931, when records began
• 12.6 mm at Bomfim on 20 August, then three waves of high temperatures to mid-September
• Symington picked whites from 25 August and reds from 1 September

Charles Symington wrote that the harvest "was defined by two challenges": the Covid-19 restrictions and the climate. Symington's crop was especially small. In some Douro Superior locations it harvested only 400g per vine, and Quinta dos Malvedos, the primary Graham's Port estate, averaged just 600g per vine. Varieties that usually ripen one after another needed picking together; Symington picked the typically late-ripening Touriga Franca at the same time as Touriga Nacional, which was not a common occurrence. Across the Douro the early harvest came when all the grape varieties seemed to ripen at the same time. There was little or no foot treading due to social distancing. At Quinta do Vesuvio, no grapes were foot-trodden in the large granite lagares for the first time since Symington acquired the property in 1989, and the first time since the winery was built in 1827.

• Especially small crop: 400g per vine in some Symington Douro Superior locations, 600g per vine at Quinta dos Malvedos
• Touriga Franca picked at the same time as Touriga Nacional at Symington
• Little or no foot treading due to social distancing
• No foot treading at Quinta do Vesuvio for the first time since the winery was built in 1827

At Symington, the low yields gave some incredibly concentrated and dark wines, with Touriga Nacional the stand-out for its excellent structure and good acidity. Sousao also performed well, while Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Franca were slightly more affected by the heat, though they delivered very good quality from more protected slopes and higher elevations. Symington names 2009, another very dry and hot year with low yields, as a comparable harvest. Decanter calls the best wines aromatic, concentrated and surprisingly fresh, despite the heat. Decanter advises drinking from 2038 to 2060, with single-quinta vintage Ports from 2030.

• Touriga Nacional was Symington's stand-out: excellent structure and good acidity
• Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Franca were slightly more affected by the heat at Symington
• Decanter: drink from 2038 to 2060, single-quinta vintage Ports from 2030

2020 produced a smattering of classic declarations along with some promising single-quinta vintage Ports, mostly held back for later release. Decanter's best wines for 2020 include Quinta de Ervamoira, Quinta do Noval, Quinta do Noval Nacional and Warre Vinhas Velhas.

• A smattering of classic declarations, plus single-quinta vintage Ports mostly held back for later release