2019 Washington State Vintage

The season began under snow. Late winter weather left snow in Washington vineyards in February into March, which is uncommon for the state, and it delayed pruning and other vineyard work while contributing to greater soil moisture and increased canopy growth. A vineyard director at Figgins Family Wine Estates described pruning that year as a slog. Budbreak began in some locations in mid-April, later than in the recent warm years. Kendall Mix of Milbrandt Vineyards and Wahluke Wine Co. explained why: it took a long time for soil temperatures to warm up, so budbreak was late and bloom was late. Warmer May temperatures then sped bloom along, which began the third week of May at some sites and proceeded briskly into June, still slightly behind recent averages. Veraison was slightly delayed by the late start and cooler temperatures. Summer read mild. Will Beightol of Double Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills said Washington normally gets seven to 10 days that are really hot in July or the beginning of August, and that it just never really seemed to come along in 2019. The numbers complicate the impression: growing degree days still finished above long-term averages, and Marty Clubb of L'Ecole No. 41 reported that 2019 GDD in Walla Walla exceeded 2008 through 2012 while falling short of 2013 through 2018. The Washington State Wine Commission's read was that the growing season was slightly cooler than recent years but on par with historical 20-year averages. Then September turned. After the first week, temperatures cooled markedly and stayed cool, often 5 to 20 degrees below historical averages in some locations, and intermittent rain events, unusual for eastern Washington in September, cancelled some pick dates. The first frost of the season hit September 30 into October 1, with 29 degrees Fahrenheit recorded at Mike Sauer's Red Willow Vineyard weather station, enough to nip low-lying areas; Sauer estimated roughly 60 percent of his crop was still hanging at that point. A larger, colder series of frosts and freezes on October 9, 10 and 11 ended the growing season for most of Washington, 10 years to the day after the prior statewide frost in 2009. Picking had been significantly delayed at most sites compared with recent years. Clubb noted that normally about 60 percent of his fruit is in by the end of September; in 2019 only 37 percent was in by October 1. The crop finished at 201,000 tons, a 23 percent decrease from 2018 and the smallest Washington harvest since 2012.

• Snow in the vineyards in February into March delayed pruning and increased soil moisture and canopy growth
• Budbreak began in some locations in mid-April; bloom started the third week of May and ran briskly into June, still slightly behind recent averages
• Summer was notably milder with very few heat spikes, though growing degree days still finished above long-term averages
• After the first week of September, temperatures often ran 5 to 20 degrees below historical averages and intermittent rain cancelled some picks
• First frost September 30 into October 1 (29 degrees Fahrenheit at Red Willow Vineyard), then a season-ending series of frosts October 9, 10 and 11
• Only 37 percent of L'Ecole No. 41's fruit was in by October 1, against a normal 60 percent by end of September
• The crop came in at 201,000 tons, down 23 percent from 2018 and the smallest since 2012

Two frost events shaped the end of the vintage. The first, on September 30 into October 1, registered 29 degrees Fahrenheit at Red Willow Vineyard and was enough to nip low-lying areas. Mike Sauer estimated roughly 60 percent of his crop was still hanging at that point, which is the measure of how much was still exposed. The second was decisive: a larger and colder series of frosts and freezes on October 9, 10 and 11 that ended the growing season across most of Washington. The Washington State Wine Commission described a series of unfortunate frost events throughout the state in early to mid-October. Many winemakers had already picked most or all of their fruit before the frosts arrived, but sites carrying higher yields lost a good amount of unpicked fruit to frost-damage concerns.

• September 30 into October 1: 29 degrees Fahrenheit at Red Willow Vineyard, nipping low-lying areas
• Roughly 60 percent of Red Willow's crop was still hanging at the first frost
• October 9, 10 and 11: a colder series of frosts and freezes ended the season for most of Washington
• The event fell 10 years to the day after the prior statewide frost in 2009
• Sites carrying higher yields lost a good amount of unpicked fruit

Washington harvested 201,000 tons of wine grapes in 2019, a 23 percent decrease compared with 2018, which Great Northwest Wine framed as the state's smallest harvest since 2012. Cabernet Sauvignon remained the top variety at 53,740 tons, or 27 percent of the total, with Chardonnay second at 33,540 tons, or 17 percent. Riesling, Merlot and Syrah rounded out the top five, and together those five accounted for more than 80 percent of the crop. Red varieties made up 60 percent of total production, roughly consistent with the prior three years. Every variety saw a tonnage decrease except Grenache and Pinot Noir, which each rose slightly. Growers were paid an average of $1,315 per ton, an 8 percent increase over the previous year, with Petit Verdot drawing the highest average price at $1,876 per ton.

• 201,000 tons harvested, down 23 percent from 2018 and the smallest Washington crop since 2012
• Cabernet Sauvignon led at 53,740 tons or 27 percent; Chardonnay second at 33,540 tons or 17 percent
• Riesling, Merlot and Syrah completed a top five accounting for more than 80 percent of the crop
• Red varieties held at 60 percent of production, consistent with the prior three years
• Every variety declined except Grenache and Pinot Noir; average price rose 8 percent to $1,315 per ton

The quality read and the volume read pulled in opposite directions. Despite the smaller harvest, farmers reported ultra-high quality in the fruit that did come in, and the cooler temperatures meant lower overall sugar accumulation and higher acidities, which had winemakers excited. There was also a timing curiosity: fruit reached physiological maturity early even as sugar maturation lagged and acid levels stayed high, unusual for recent Washington vintages, and some winemakers began picking despite low sugar numbers because the flavors were already there. Sarah Goedhart at Hedges Family Estate was among them. The optimism predated the frosts. Before the September and October cooldown, Katie Nelson of Ste Michelle Wine Estates said she kept telling people it was the vintage of her career and that they were going to make the most elegant, beautiful wines. Mike Sauer of Red Willow Vineyard similarly recalled it looking set up for something really special going into September.

• Farmers reported ultra-high quality in the fruit that came in despite the smaller crop
• Cooler temperatures meant lower sugar accumulation and higher acidities
• Fruit hit physiological maturity early while sugars lagged, leading some to pick on flavor rather than Brix
• Katie Nelson of Ste Michelle Wine Estates called it the vintage of her career before the September cooldown
• Mike Sauer said the year looked set up for something really special going into September