2015 Germany & Mosel Riesling Vintage

The winter was average and bud break in line with long-term averages, though later than in 2014. Changing weather in June split flowering in two: the better-exposed sites flowered before mid-June, the others two weeks later. Top vineyards in the Middle Mosel flowered fairly smoothly, while lesser Middle Mosel sites and most vineyards in the Saar and Ruwer flowered late and more unevenly. The summer was scorching hot and dry, bringing some water stress but above all delayed ripening. Some rain in September tested growers' nerves, and growers on the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer feared a wet finish like the year before that would again force a rushed harvest. Instead a golden October, with cool nights and an east wind that kept drying the grapes after rain, kept the fruit healthy. Some early-ripening varieties were picked from mid-September, the main harvest began with Müller-Thurgau in the last ten days of September, and Riesling came in during the first two weeks of October, running into early November on the steep slopes. Most growers finished by 25 to 28 October. The Mosel crop was 795,000 hectoliters, 3 percent below the long-term average and 8 percent below 2014, with smaller volumes in many subregions. Yields were essentially back to normal after the tough 2013 and 2014 vintages, except in the Ruwer. Wolfgang Mertes, estate manager at Weingut von Kesselstatt, said the very dry summer led to tiny berries, hitting its Ruwer vineyards hardest, and that the estate did not exceed 35 hl/ha.

• Average winter; bud break in line with long-term averages but later than 2014
• Split flowering: better-exposed sites before mid-June, others two weeks later; most Saar and Ruwer sites late and uneven
• Scorching hot, dry summer, then an unsettled September and a dry, sunny, cool October
• Mosel crop 795,000 hectoliters, 3 percent below the long-term average; lower yields especially in the Ruwer

Sugar levels were highly varied, a result of the uneven flowering. Fruit at 90 to 95 degrees Oechsle in the best vineyards was not uncommon, partly from botrytis selections, but the cool October slowed ripening and kept sugar from climbing much further, so the vintage did not become another 2011 or 2003. Constantin Richter of Weingut Max Ferd Richter said he selected fruit from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr at no more than 82 degrees Oechsle, ideal for Kabinett. Botrytis was limited: fruit affected after the September rain gave some high-level Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, and the week of 5 October was loaded with sunshine. Botrytis did not really spread. Egon Müller called 2015 "qualitatively and quantitatively an excellent vintage with little botrytis, high sugar levels and (very) high acidity levels."

• 90 to 95 degrees Oechsle not uncommon in the best vineyards, partly from botrytis selections
• Kabinett fruit still possible: 82 degrees Oechsle from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr (Max Ferd Richter)
• Botrytis present after September rain but did not really spread
• Many estates left grapes hanging in hope of Eiswein

Across Germany, the grapes were healthy, fully ripe and very aromatic, with an exceptional number of noble sweet wines, from Auslese to Trockenbeerenauslese. Because the summer was so dry, yields varied widely with the water-holding capacity of the soil and the age of the vines. Franken had one of the driest years of the past 40, with must weights averaging 89 degrees Oechsle and nearly three quarters of the crop made as Prädikat wine. In the Rheingau, frosty April nights did no damage, but the long summer drought cut the expected crop to 205,000 hectoliters, about 8 percent below the long-term average; heavier rain from mid-September split some berry skins, ideal conditions for botrytis, and high-class sweet wines were expected. The Pfalz had 46 percent less rain than the long-term average in April and 60 percent less in May, and a crop of about 2.2 million hectoliters. On the Nahe, Riesling readings of 90 degrees Oechsle and more were no rarity.

• Germany: about 9 million hectoliters, level with the ten-year average
• Franken: one of the driest years of the past 40; must weights averaged 89 degrees Oechsle
• Rheingau: mid-September rain set up botrytis; crop about 8 percent below the long-term average
• Pfalz: April rain 46 percent and May rain 60 percent below the long-term average

The DWI expected fruity, very harmonious Mosel whites with a fine interplay of sweetness and acidity. After tasting more than 600 wines, Mosel Fine Wines answered whether 2015 deserved its hype with "Yes ... but." The vintage combines ripe fruit and zesty acidity, with the bulk of the grapes picked at Spätlese and Auslese ripeness and high dry extract often giving richness and power; the cooler Saar and Ruwer made crisper wines than the Mosel. Mosel Fine Wines named Spätlese and Auslese the sweet spot of the vintage and advised that Kabinett wines often prove to be Spätlese in all but name. It cautioned that 2015 is not a light vintage, that alcohol can be on the high side in dry and off-dry wines, and that the dessert wines lack the breadth and depth of 2011, 2006 or 2005. It drew comparisons with 2012, 2009, 1990 and 1975, all with provisos.

• Sweet spot: Spätlese and Auslese
• Saar and Ruwer made crisper wines than the Mosel
• Dry and off-dry wines: alcohol can be on the high side
• Compared with 2012, 2009, 1990 and 1975, all with provisos