Müller-Thurgau

Müller-Thurgau is a crossing of Riesling and Madeleine Royale, a pedigree confirmed by markers. Its second parent is, in Jancis Robinson's words, "a table grape called Madeleine Royale". VIVC records Germany as its country of origin, Hermann Müller as its breeder, with the breeder contact address Hochschule Geisenheim University, Institut für Rebenzüchtung, and Riesling x Silvaner as the pedigree given by the breeder and bibliography. Its VIVC prime name is Mueller Thurgau Weiss, variety number 8141. WineWiki's VIVC-derived lineage data lists three offspring, Bacchus, Ortega and Reichensteiner, and three half-siblings, Kerner, Rieslaner and Scheurebe.

• VIVC prime name: Mueller Thurgau Weiss; VIVC variety number 8141; country of origin: Germany
• Parents: Riesling and Madeleine Royale (pedigree confirmed by markers)
• Pedigree as given by breeder and bibliography: Riesling x Silvaner
• Breeder: Hermann Müller; breeder contact address: Hochschule Geisenheim University, Institut für Rebenzüchtung
• Recorded offspring: Bacchus, Ortega and Reichensteiner
• Half-siblings: Kerner, Rieslaner and Scheurebe

Müller-Thurgau owes its existence and name to Professor Hermann Müller (1850-1927) from the Swiss canton of Thurgau, who bred it at the Geisenheim Research Institute in 1882. The variety was further developed at the Swiss research institute in Wädenswil and named after its breeder in 1913. For a long time it was wrongly considered a cross between Riesling and Silvaner; DNA analyses conducted in 2000 revealed that it is a cross between Riesling and Madeleine Royale. German growers took it up with enthusiasm after the Second World War, and it was Germany's most popular grape variety for much of the 1970s and 1980s. It relinquished its leading position to Riesling in the 1990s.

• Bred at Geisenheim in 1882, further developed at Wädenswil, Switzerland, and named after its breeder in 1913
• Long considered a Riesling x Silvaner cross; DNA analyses conducted in 2000 showed Madeleine Royale to be the second parent
• Taken up with enthusiasm by German growers after the Second World War; Germany's most popular grape variety for much of the 1970s and 1980s
• The synonym Rivaner, a short version of the words Riesling and Silvaner, is used in Luxembourg and Slovenia; Switzerland retains the name Riesling-Silvaner, and Hungary uses Rizlingszilvani

Müller-Thurgau thrives best in temperate climates and on fertile, well aired soils. In the cool German climate it ripens extremely early, before the arrival of autumn rain in most years, and, unlike Riesling and Silvaner, it yields reliably on almost any site. Especially at high yields, though, the wine can have little character and be short of acid. In Germany, Müller-Thurgau vines grow in almost all wine-growing regions, with the largest areas in Rheinhessen and Baden. In Switzerland it is cultivated in all wine-growing regions and is particularly widespread in Thurgau, Aargau and Graubünden, and the name Riesling-Silvaner was retained in Switzerland. It is widely planted in Austria, and Luxembourg's version is sold as Rivaner.

• Germany: Deutsches Weininstitut figures for 2023 put Rheinhessen first at approx. 3,834 ha, followed by Baden at approx. 2,160 ha
• Switzerland: cultivated in all wine-growing regions, particularly Thurgau, Aargau and Graubünden
• Luxembourg: the variety is sold as Rivaner
• New Zealand: labelled Riesling-Sylvaner, as in Switzerland

Müller-Thurgau has an elegant nose marked by aromas of white flowers, muscat, green apple and sometimes a slightly herbaceous touch. Its aroma is delicately fruity-floral, with delicate herbs, apples or pears. The acidity tends to be mild, sometimes more pronounced in wines of northern origin. Most of the wines are dry or residually sweet, and they are usually uncomplicated everyday wines. With some exceptions, Müller-Thurgau is not a wine for keeping and tastes best in the first few years after harvest. The variety shows its true quality potential with lower pruning.

• Aromas: white flowers, muscat, green apple and sometimes a slightly herbaceous touch
• Acidity tends to be mild, sometimes more pronounced in wines of northern origin
• With some exceptions, not a wine for keeping; it tastes best in the first few years after harvest
• A wine labelled Rivaner can be assumed to be dry, rather youthful, light and fresh

The wine is usually matured in stainless steel tanks, which are good for preserving its freshness and varietal aroma. The restriction of permissible yields per hectare introduced in the 1980s had a very positive effect on Müller-Thurgau in particular, since the variety tends to produce high yields. Here and there, sur lie wines are offered, kept on the fine lees until shortly before bottling.

• Stainless steel tanks are the usual vessel, good for preserving freshness and varietal aroma
• Yield restriction has had a very positive effect on the variety, which tends to produce high yields; it shows its true quality potential with lower pruning
• Some producers offer sur lie wines, kept on the fine lees until shortly before bottling

In Jancis Robinson's assessment, the variety "seems to have a much higher strike rate outside Germany". She writes that some of the better producers of Alto Adige and Friuli, most notably Pojer & Sandri, "can make really rather exciting, even sought-after, wine from it". Elena Walch makes a Müller Thurgau under the Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT from south-east and south-west facing vineyards between 350 and 650 metres, on calcareous soils enriched with clay and sand.

• Elena Walch: Müller Thurgau, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, fermented in steel tanks at a controlled 18°C and aged for several months on its lees
• Pojer & Sandri: singled out by Jancis Robinson as the most notable of the better producers of Alto Adige and Friuli for the variety

Müller-Thurgau goes particularly well with fish such as trout, zander or whitefish, and with seafood, especially prawns, mussels and shellfish. Its fruity freshness goes well with Asian dishes and lightly flavoured dishes, and it suits mild cheeses such as goat cheese or cream cheese. Thanks to its lightness, it is ideal as an aperitif. Müller-Thurgau wines are usually uncomplicated everyday wines that harmonise well with delicately aromatic dishes.

• Fish such as trout, zander or whitefish
• Prawns, mussels and other shellfish
• Mild cheeses such as goat cheese or cream cheese
• Asian dishes and lightly flavoured dishes

Primary sources: https://www.vivc.de/index.php?r=passport%2Fview&id=8141 ; https://www.winesofgermany.com/our-wine/grape-varieties/grape-variety/104/m%C3%BCller-thurgau ; https://www.swisswine.com/en/swiss-vineyards/wine-grapes/mueller-thurgau-en ; https://www.elenawalch.com/it-IT/prodotto/Muller-Thurgau Reference sources: https://www.jancisrobinson.com/learn/grape-varieties/white/muller-thurgau Last verified 2026-10-19