2003 Tuscany Vintage

Spring in Tuscany began with normal temperatures and rainfall, while in central Italy a normal winter with cold and rainy spells gave way to an early spring and early budding. Frost on 7-8 April caused damage that contributed to the general short fall in production, and a short frost in early April killed many of the tender buds in central Italy. From May to the end of August Tuscany had record temperatures and almost complete drought, which started to create serious problems of stress in the vineyard. In Tuscany and Umbria, summer days averaged 33 to 35 C, with peaks over 40 C, and nights stayed at 24 to 26 C. Across central Italy, vines suffered serious stress from drought, developed high sugar levels and in some cases had clusters overexposed to sunlight; younger vines with shallow roots suffered most, while older vineyards reacted well. Rain fell on 25 August in some central Italian zones, which led to a revision of schedules, especially for late-ripening varieties, and rain in early September saved the situation, allowing more or less even ripening over the whole of Tuscany. It was the earliest vintage since 1945, with central Italian picking beginning on average two weeks earlier than usual. The harvest was one of the smallest ever, with quantities down an average 15% over the region; Tuscany was down 15% on 2002, and Italy's total reached a low of 44 million hectolitres against an average of 53 million.

The Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico's own September 2003 harvest release was upbeat. Its newly elected president, Baron Giovanni Ricasoli-Firidolfi, said "The 2003 vintage will be remembered as a year of record heat and an absence of rain but also for an excellent harvest," adding that while there was a decline in quantity, the wines were "displaying big bodies and structures with the high alcohol levels that will assure medium to extended aging." Initial analyses showed potential alcohol substantially above 13%, an average pH between 3.4 and 3.5 and total acidity between 5.5 and 6.5 grams per liter. The ripeness of the grapes assured outstanding extraction of anthocyanins and a high index of total polyphenols. In the Chianti zone the hot, dry vintage produced wholesome, ripe, thick-skinned grapes that benefited from harvesting substantially earlier than usual, and even late-ripening Sangiovese was nearly all in the wineries by the time of the release. Chianti Classico was expected to be particularly full-bodied and meaty, with alcohol levels well above the norm, according to Decanter's guide.

Decanter rates Tuscany 2003 at 4/5, with the verdict "Very well-balanced, good quality reds from Chianti and Montepulciano" and the advice to keep them. Grapes everywhere had very high sugar content, low acidity and very thick, tannin-rich skins, and an unusually low ratio of juice to pulp resulted in dense and highly concentrated wines, "with great ageing potential but probably less immediate appeal." Chianti Classico should be put away together with the long-ageing Chiantis from Rufina, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and all the big names at Montalcino are expecting to bring out an important vintage. Maremma wines might be a bit baked and jammy for some tastes, while Bolgheri should offer more elegance alongside the structure.

Marco Pallanti of Castello di Ama in Chianti Classico said "It's the earliest harvest I have experienced over the past 22 years," and that if all went to plan 2003 could be one of the estate's historic vintages. Claudio Balsa of Altesino in Montalcino said "Our production is -30% down, however, what we have is worth its weight in gold," and found that vines with northern exposure and clay and stony soils fared better than those facing south. Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi of Rocca di Montegrossi in Chianti called it "another year for selectivity." Estates with a track record in hot vintages in Chianti include Castello di Bossi, Fattoria Le Corti-Corsini and Fattoria di Felsina, and the Riservas from Lisini, Salvioni, Case Basse and Col d'Orcia are the ones for the long haul.