Nerello Mascalese

Nerello Mascalese is typical of the Etna area, where it has been grown since time immemorial, and its name refers to the Contea di Mascali, the probable centre of origin or at least of spread of the cultivar. It very probably belongs to the ancient group of 'Nigrelli' vines described by Sensini (1760) in his 'Memorie sui vini siciliani', but the first mentions of a Nerello Mascalese grown on the slopes of Etna date from 1839, by Abate Geremia. The Contea di Mascali was a vast territory which, from a Norman donation in the 12th century until the early 19th century, included part of the Acireale area, most of the eastern and north-eastern slopes of the volcano and many plains in the Messina area. Etna was the first Sicilian DOC to be recognised, by a decree of 11 August 1968, and a 2011 revision of its rules introduced the spumante and rosso riserva types.

• Name: refers to the Contea di Mascali, the variety's supposed place of origin
• First mention of a Nerello Mascalese grown on Etna's slopes: 1839, by Abate Geremia
• Etna DOC: the first Sicilian DOC, recognised by decree of 11 August 1968
• 2011: the Etna rules add the spumante and rosso riserva types

Nerello Mascalese is VIVC variety number 8480, under the prime name NERELLO MASCALESE, with a black (noir) berry skin. Its country or region of origin is Italy. Its pedigree, 'SANGIOVESE X MANTONICO BIANCO', is listed under the heading 'Pedigree confirmed by markers', with Sangiovese as parent 1 and Mantonico Bianco as parent 2. A parentage atlas of Italian grapevine varieties inferred from SNP genotyping, published in Frontiers in Plant Science in 2021, found that Gaglioppo originated from Sangiovese and Mantonico bianco like Nerello mascalese, and identifies Mantonico bianco as an ancient cultivar attested in Sicily and Calabria. In VIVC-derived lineage data, Gaglioppo is a full sibling of Nerello Mascalese, and Catarratto, Ciliegiolo, Frappato and Perricone are half-siblings.

• VIVC variety number 8480; prime name NERELLO MASCALESE; berry skin colour noir; country or region of origin Italy
• Parents: Sangiovese x Mantonico Bianco, confirmed by markers and also supported by a 2021 SNP-genotyping parentage atlas
• Full sibling: Gaglioppo; half-siblings: Catarratto, Ciliegiolo, Frappato, Perricone

Nerello Mascalese is the most widespread indigenous grape variety on the slopes of Mount Etna. The northern slope is the area with the highest number of producers, and its most cultivated variety is the red Nerello Mascalese; the appellation body credits the south-eastern slope with ideal conditions in which Nerello Mascalese and Carricante easily reach perfect ripeness. Vines in the zone mainly occupy land between 300 and 900 metres above sea level, reaching 1,100 metres, and 80% of the zone's viticulture is on brown andic and leached brown soils of volcanic origin. Tenuta delle Terre Nere, whose northern vineyards lie between 600 and 900 metres in the communes of Castiglione di Sicilia and Randazzo, regards the hill band between Solicchiata and Randazzo as traditionally recognised as the prime zone for Nerello Mascalese. The old, higher-elevation vineyards are largely bush 'alberello' trained, with some even ungrafted and pre-phylloxera vines, and Nerello Mascalese on Etna is grown on shaded bush vines to protect the grapes from potentially harsh rays. Nerello Mascalese is not totally contained to Etna, though one critic finds the finest examples on the volcano. It also goes into the blend of Palari's Faro, made from old alberello vines at 600 metres above sea level.

• Northern slope: the most producers, with Nerello Mascalese the most cultivated variety
• Etna DOC vineyards mainly between 300 and 900 metres above sea level, reaching 1,100 metres
• Soils: 80% of the zone's viticulture on brown andic and leached brown soils of volcanic origin
• Faro: Nerello Mascalese is part of the blend of Palari's Faro

The Etna appellation body sets out the style of Nerello Mascalese wines as a high alcohol content, a high level of acidity, a slightly intense ruby colour, fruity hints of good and ethereal intensity, minerality, great finesse, medium structure, good balance and astringency. One critic calls it a noble, late-ripening Sicilian variety that retains its acidity well and is responsible for some dense and haunting reds on the slopes of Mount Etna. Another finds pale reds with good structure, perfumed berry fruit, and wild, gamey flavours, and judges comparisons with Nebbiolo apt because there is a similar tension between highly strung acids and assertive yet refined tannins. Many compare it to Nebbiolo because of its late ripening, in the second ten days of October, and to Pinot Noir because of its sensitivity to local conditions. Michele Brusaferri, agronomist at Tenuta Tascante, observes that on Etna Nerello Mascalese may appear pale in colour but the wines have astonishing depth, carrying flinty, balsamic and even liquorice notes. One magazine names density and depth as two of the main qualities of Nerello Mascalese.

• High alcohol, high acidity, slightly intense ruby colour, fruity hints of good and ethereal intensity, minerality, great finesse, medium structure
• Pale reds with good structure, perfumed berry fruit, and wild, gamey flavours
• Compared with Nebbiolo for its late ripening and with Pinot Noir for its sensitivity to local conditions
• Density and depth: two of its main qualities, in one magazine's view

Etna rosso may carry the term riserva only after at least four years of ageing within the production zone, of which at least 12 months in wood, counted from 1 November of the harvest year. Etna is the latest zone in Sicily for grape ripening, with harvest running to the end of October and sometimes into November at the highest altitudes, and Nerello Mascalese is generally picked from the first ten days of October. In one critic's verdict, Nerello isn't easy: low yields are vital to avoid a mean, astringent mess, and new oak does it few favours. Practice varies by estate. Frank Cornelissen harvests relatively late, from mid October to early November in multiple passages, ferments with the skins in small neutral tubs, and does not vinify in wood, preferring fibreglass vessels. Benanti ferments its Contrada Calderara Sottana in temperature-controlled steel with a 21-day maceration using indigenous yeasts the company selected, then matures it in French oak tonneaux for 12 months. Giuseppe Russo of Girolamo Russo vinifies all the districts in the same way, with soft punching down and short macerations.

• Etna rosso riserva: at least four years of ageing within the production zone, at least 12 months in wood, counted from 1 November of the harvest year
• Nerello Mascalese harvest generally from the first ten days of October
• In one critic's view, low yields are vital, and new oak does it few favours
• Frank Cornelissen ferments in fibreglass rather than wood; Benanti matures its Contrada Calderara Sottana in French oak tonneaux

Frank Cornelissen's estate was established in 2001, with vineyards in the northern valley of Etna; its Magma Rosso is produced from only Nerello Mascalese grapes in contrada Barbabecchi, and its reds are 100% Nerello Mascalese from vineyards of 30 to 90-plus years of age. Tenuta delle Terre Nere has vinified and bottled its contrada wines separately since its first harvest in 2002; its Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera, 'La Vigna di Don Peppino', comes from 0.8 hectares of own-rooted vines over 140 years old in Randazzo. Benanti's Contrada Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso is pure Nerello Mascalese from a vineyard at almost 700 metres in Randazzo, and Antonio Benanti took over running the estate with his twin brother Salvino in 2012. Giuseppe Russo's signature wines at Girolamo Russo are Etna Rosso from individual contrade in northern Etna, and Alberto Graci's top reds come from contrade Arcurià and Feudo di Mezzo, the latter made exclusively from 85-year-old vines. One critic credits the five Passopisciaro 'contrada' wines with demonstrating Nerello's brilliance at transmitting terroir, and Salvo Foti's I Vigneri collective spreads the gospel of alberello (bush) training methods.

• Frank Cornelissen (est. 2001): Magma Rosso, only Nerello Mascalese from contrada Barbabecchi
• Tenuta delle Terre Nere: contrada wines bottled separately since the 2002 first harvest; Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera from 0.8 ha of own-rooted vines
• Benanti: Contrada Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso, pure Nerello Mascalese at almost 700 metres in Randazzo
• Girolamo Russo (contrada Etna Rosso from northern Etna) and Graci (Arcurià, Feudo di Mezzo)

Benanti recommends its Contrada Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso, a pure Nerello Mascalese, as particularly suited to red meats, game and aged cheeses.

• Red meats, game and aged cheeses, for Benanti's Contrada Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso

Primary sources: https://www.vivc.de/index.php?r=passport%2Fview&id=8480 ; https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2020.605934 ; https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252Ff%252F6%252FD.b5bdd1dbb38eb7253e5a/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4625/E/7z?mode=download (Etna disciplinare) ; https://thewinesofetna.com/wines/ ; https://thewinesofetna.com/terroir/ ; https://www.frankcornelissen.it/ ; https://www.tenutaterrenere.com/contrade/ ; https://www.tenutaterrenere.com/grand-cru/calderara-sottana-rosso/ ; https://www.tenutaterrenere.com/grand-cru/calderara-sottana-rosso-pre/ ; https://www.benanti.it/prodotto/contrada-calderara-sottanaetna-rosso/ ; https://www.girolamorusso.it/i_vini/calderara-sottana/ Reference sources: https://www.jancisrobinson.com/learn/grape-varieties/red/nerello-mascalese ; https://www.decanter.com/features/regional-profile-etna-sicily-245635/ ; https://www.decanter.com/magazine/wine-lovers-guide-to-etna-542444/ ; https://www.decanter.com/premium/sicily-report-2024-etnas-golden-opportunity-543802/ ; https://www.decanter.com/learn/what-makes-volcanic-wines-so-special-winemakers-have-their-say-564508/ ; https://www.decanter.com/premium/italys-high-altitude-wines-460029/ ; https://www.decanter.com/premium/etnas-star-winemakers-556926/ Last verified 2026-10-04