CAMPANIA: Taurasi DOCG (Aglianico)

The wine takes its name from the ancient arx Taurasia, one of the twenty-one settlements founded by the Irpini, a people federated with the Samnites; the Romans destroyed it in 268 BC. Aglianico is a very ancient variety, probably of Greek origin, introduced to Italy around the 7th to 6th century BC. The origin of its name is uncertain: it may come from the ancient city of Elea or be a corruption of the word Ellenico, while Wine Grapes (Robinson, Harding and Vouillamoz), as cited by Decanter's Anthony Rose (2023), holds that it more likely stems from the Spanish 'llano', meaning a plain. In the 19th century the wine trade led to the building of Irpinia's first railway, soon called the 'ferrovia del vino' (wine railway), and in 1878 Francesco De Sanctis founded the agricultural institute in Avellino with an oenological focus. The Mastroberardino firm also dates back to 1878. Phylloxera arrived only at the end of the 1930s, and replanting of the affected vineyards restarted in Taurasi in 1948. The year 1968 became the reference point for the Mastroberardino family's Taurasi. The DOC was granted by presidential decree on 26 March 1970, and the number of bottling wineries grew from 10 to about 80 in the run of vintages before DOCG recognition in 1993.

• Name from the arx Taurasia, destroyed by the Romans in 268 BC
• Aglianico's name: possibly from Elea or a corruption of Ellenico; Wine Grapes favours the Spanish 'llano', as cited by Decanter (2023)
• 1878: Francesco De Sanctis founds the agricultural institute in Avellino; the Mastroberardino firm also dates back to 1878
• DOC 1970, DOCG 1993; bottling wineries grew from 10 to about 80 in the years before the DOCG

The zone covers the whole territory of Taurasi, Bonito, Castelfranci, Castelvetere sul Calore, Fontanarosa, Lapio, Luogosano, Mirabella Eclano, Montefalcione, Montemarano, Montemiletto, Paternopoli, Pietradefusi, Sant'Angelo all'Esca, San Mango sul Calore, Torre le Nocelle and Venticano, all in the province of Avellino. The Calore river divides the DOCG into eastern and western parts, and the Aglianico vineyards sit on the hills between 400 and 700 metres. Only hillside vineyards or those with suitable aspect and exposure qualify; damp, insufficiently sunny valley-floor sites are excluded. The climate is that of an inland zone, with strong temperature swings and low rainfall, harsh winters in which snow is not rare, fairly mild summers and fairly frequent spring frosts. Well over 70% of the rain falls in autumn and winter, and summer brings on average 6% of the total. The geology divides into three broad sectors: varicoloured clays in the west at Venticano and Pietradefusi, joined by calcarenites at Montemiletto and Torre le Nocelle, where the Campanian Ignimbrite is also present; polygenic conglomerates in the east around Luogosano and Paternopoli, with weakly cemented sandstones outcropping at San Mango sul Calore, Castelvetere sul Calore, Montemarano and Castelfranci; and weakly cemented sandstones and clayey sands around Bonito in the northeast. Varicoloured clays with stony interbeds also characterise Lapio and Montefalcione. Around Taurasi itself the clays carry covers, some very extensive, of ash and lapilli deposits. The soils are markedly rich in clay and limestone, ranging from deep soils formed from ash and pumice to very compact calcareous-clay soils. Sandy soils occur as well, with occasional underlying volcanic rock, and in places calcareous clay and limestone sit with sand and volcanic ash.

• 17 communes in the province of Avellino; the Calore river divides the DOCG into eastern and western parts
• Altitude: Aglianico vineyards between 400 and 700 metres, on hillsides only
• Soils rich in clay and limestone, with ash, pumice and lapilli deposits in places, notably around Taurasi
• Inland climate with strong temperature swings, low rainfall and harsh winters; harvest usually not until late October, in some cases into November

Taurasi is reserved for red wines from Aglianico, with other non-aromatic red varieties suitable for cultivation in the province of Avellino allowed up to a maximum of 15%. The other permitted grapes are Piedirosso, Sciascinoso and Greco Nero, and Decanter's Anthony Rose (2023) reads the 15% allowance as a reflection of tradition and a heritage of old vines. Mastroberardino's Taurasi has always been made entirely from Aglianico. There are two types, Taurasi and Taurasi riserva, both with an intense ruby colour tending to garnet and gaining orange reflections with age, and a dry, full, harmonious taste with a persistent finish. The wine is structured, very tannic and closed when young, and suited to very long ageing. Taurasi typically shows red and dark cherry and plum fruit alongside spicy, tarry, even chocolatey notes. Aglianico's thick skins and high acidity give the wines their ageing potential. Aglianico grown in Taurasi is typically more powerful and more muscular than in the Vulture, and needs greater maturation to soften its formidable tannins.

• Aglianico with up to 15% other non-aromatic red varieties suitable for the province of Avellino
• The other permitted varieties are Piedirosso, Sciascinoso and Greco Nero
• Two types, Taurasi and Taurasi riserva: intense ruby tending to garnet, gaining orange reflections with age
• Structured, very tannic and closed when young, suited to very long ageing

The Mastroberardino firm dates back to 1878 and had to be relaunched after all its markets were lost during World War II. Decanter (2020) credits Antonio Mastroberardino with transforming Campanian viticulture by reviving the almost extinct Fiano and Greco di Tufo varieties at a time when Italian wine authorities were urging growers in Campania to plant Sangiovese and Montepulciano, and says Taurasi gained an international reputation thanks to Mastroberardino. The grapes for the 1968 Taurasi Riserva came primarily from the company's 12-hectare vineyard at Montemarano, planted at 500 m to 650 m, and the oldest Taurasi in the Mastroberardino cellars dates from 1928. In his 1985 book Life Beyond Lambrusco, Nicolas Belfrage MW wrote: "The most important, indeed the only significant version of Taurasi is that of Mastroberardino", as quoted by Decanter's Anthony Rose (2023). In the early 1990s producer Antonio Caggiano focused on a change in the local viticulture, and the development of the cordon system raised planting density. Rose names 12 new-generation producers to know: Barbot, Boccella Rosa, Boccella Vini, Giovanni Molettieri, Marianna Venuti, Michele Perillo, Salvatore Molettieri, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Tenuta del Meriggio, Tenuta Scuotto, Terredora and Urciuolo Vini.

• Mastroberardino: firm dates back to 1878; relaunched after World War II
• 1968 Taurasi Riserva: grapes primarily from the 12-hectare Montemarano vineyard at 500 m to 650 m
• Antonio Caggiano: early-1990s focus on a change in the local viticulture
• New-generation names picked by Decanter's Anthony Rose (2023) include Salvatore Molettieri, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Boccella Rosa and Terredora

Under the production rules, last amended by ministerial decree on 13 October 2020, the maximum yield is 10 tonnes of grapes per hectare, and the grapes must reach a minimum natural alcohol of 11.5% (12% for riserva). Taurasi must be aged at least three years, at least one of them in wooden barrels; riserva at least four years, at least 18 months of them in wood, with ageing counted from 1 December of the harvest year. At release, Taurasi needs a minimum total alcohol of 12.00% vol and riserva 12.50% vol, with minimum total acidity of 5.0 g/l and minimum non-reducing extract of 22.0 g/l for both. Vinification, including compulsory ageing, must take place within the province of Avellino. The wine must be sold in glass containers of no more than 5 litres carrying a state seal, in Bordeaux or Burgundy shapes of dark glass closed with a cork, and the vintage must appear on the label. The term 'vigna' followed by its place name is allowed, while qualifiers such as 'superiore', 'extra', 'fine' and 'selezionato' are banned, and Agroqualità is the authorised control body. Taurasi DOCG is an enclave within the greater Irpinia Aglianico DOC. Irpinia Campi Taurasini DOC is a sub-zone of Irpinia DOC covering 24 small municipalities, requiring at least 85% Aglianico and at least 10 months of ageing.

• Taurasi: at least 3 years of ageing (1 in wood); minimum total alcohol 12.00% vol
• Riserva: at least 4 years of ageing (18 months in wood); minimum total alcohol 12.50% vol
• Maximum yield 10 t of grapes per hectare; grape-to-wine yield capped at 70%, and 65% after compulsory ageing
• Irpinia Campi Taurasini DOC: at least 85% Aglianico and at least 10 months of ageing

Irpinia lies within an hour's drive of Naples airport, with a perpetual view of wooded hills. It lacks any tourist infrastructure, but its rural charm draws the independent-minded traveller, and the area also makes the two white DOCGs of Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino. Here and there the tall festoons of the traditional 'alberata taurasina' training system can still be seen in the landscape, although vertical trellising with guyot and spur-pruned cordon now prevails in specialised vineyards. Stations of the old wine railway are still present at Taurasi and Lapio, and the presentation of the 1999 vintage opened the first edition of 'Anteprima Taurasi', through which producers present the wine to the market.

• Within an hour's drive of Naples airport
• Traditional 'alberata taurasina' festoons still visible in places; trellising now prevails
• Wine-railway stations at Taurasi and Lapio
• Anteprima Taurasi: its first edition presented the 1999 vintage

Primary source (MASAF, Disciplinare di produzione dei vini a DOCG Taurasi, in the 'Disciplinari DOP dalla lettera O alla lettera Z' archive on https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/4625): https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252F2%252F3%252FD.8ccd09a077f2ec35dc9b/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4625/E/7z?mode=download. Secondary sources: https://www.decanter.com/premium/taurasi-a-buyers-guide-495246/, https://www.decanter.com/premium/exploring-the-aglianico-triangle-541871/, https://www.decanter.com/learn/wine-legend-mastroberardino-taurasi-riserva-1968-299270/. Last verified 2026-10-05