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Mastroberardino

mahs-troh-beh-rar-DEE-noh

Mastroberardino is a family-owned winery in Atripalda, province of Avellino, officially founded in 1878 by Angelo Mastroberardino, with family winemaking roots tracing to the mid-18th century. Antonio Mastroberardino (9th generation) rebuilt the estate after WWII and earned the title 'The Grape Archaeologist' for reviving Fiano, Greco, and Aglianico, while son Piero (10th generation) continues to lead the estate today.

Key Facts
  • Founded in 1878 by Angelo Mastroberardino in Atripalda, Irpinia; family winemaking roots trace to the mid-18th century
  • Operates 14 wine estates across approximately 250 hectares in the three Irpinia DOCG zones; produces approximately 150,000 cases annually
  • Taurasi DOCG elevated from DOC (1970) to DOCG in 1993; Mastroberardino was the only producer exporting Taurasi until the early 1990s
  • Antonio Mastroberardino (9th generation) revived near-extinct Fiano, Greco, and Aglianico post-WWII; earned the title 'The Grape Archaeologist'
  • Villa dei Misteri project at Pompeii launched in 1996; first wine released in 2001 in a limited run of approximately 1,721 bottles, with proceeds supporting restoration of Pompeii's ancient wine cellar at Foro Bario
  • Flagship Radici Taurasi Riserva first produced in 1986; aged approximately 30 months in Slavonian oak and used barriques, followed by up to 42 months in bottle before release
  • The 2016 Radici Taurasi Riserva ranked in Wine Spectator's Top 10 wines of 2023, confirming Mastroberardino's continued international standing

📜History and Founding

Mastroberardino traces its winemaking lineage to the mid-18th century, when Pietro di Mastro Berardino established the family's craft in Irpinia. The modern winery was officially founded in 1878 when Angelo Mastroberardino registered the company and began exporting wines to France and other European markets. His son Michele continued promoting the wines globally through frequent travels to North America and South America in the early 20th century. After WWII, Michele's sons, including Antonio and Walter, rebuilt what phylloxera, war, and economic hardship had devastated. A significant family split in 1994 saw Walter Mastroberardino depart to found Terredora Di Paolo, taking many historic vineyard parcels, while Antonio retained the winery and family name. Antonio largely retired in 2005 and passed away in 2014, with his son Piero, the 10th generation, now serving as president and sole operational leader.

  • Officially registered as an exporter in 1878 by Angelo Mastroberardino; family roots in Irpinia winemaking date to the mid-18th century
  • Angelo's son Michele opened North American and South American markets to Mastroberardino wines in the early 20th century
  • In 1994, brothers Antonio and Walter Mastroberardino split the estate; Antonio kept the winery and name while Walter founded Terredora Di Paolo
  • Piero Mastroberardino, 10th generation, is current president; Antonio retired in 2005 and passed away in 2014

🌋Terroir and Vineyard Heritage

Mastroberardino operates 14 wine estates across Campania, all positioned within the three Irpinia DOCG production zones of Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino, and Greco di Tufo. Vineyards span elevations from roughly 400 to over 600 meters above sea level across the Irpinian Apennines. Soils are a mosaic of calcareous clay, limestone, and volcanic material from historic eruptions of Mount Vesuvius, including veins of tuff, pumice, ash, and lapilli that contribute a distinctive mineral character. The Taurasi Radici Riserva draws fruit from the Montemarano vineyard, situated at approximately 600 meters elevation on south-to-southeast facing slopes. Yields at Mastroberardino are consistently kept below DOCG maximums, prioritizing concentration and quality over volume.

  • 14 estates covering approximately 250 hectares across the Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino, and Greco di Tufo DOCG zones
  • Soils combine calcareous clay, limestone, and volcanic deposits including tuff, pumice, ash, and lapilli
  • Montemarano vineyard, source of Radici Riserva, sits at approximately 600 meters elevation with south-to-southeast exposure
  • Yields deliberately maintained below DOCG legal maximums to ensure quality and concentration
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🍇Indigenous Varieties and Preservation

Antonio Mastroberardino is widely credited with saving Campania's ancient grape varieties from extinction. After WWII, most farmers returning to devastated land replanted with high-yielding international varieties; Antonio refused, doubling down on Aglianico, Fiano, Greco, and Falanghina. Working with ampelographers, the family identified and preserved varieties traceable to ancient Greek settlers and Roman cultivation. Until the early 1990s, Mastroberardino was the only winery in Irpinia producing quality wine from indigenous vines. Today, Mastroberardino cultivates Aglianico, Fiano, Greco, Falanghina, Piedirosso, and Coda di Volpe, all native to Campania. The estate's commitment to 100% Aglianico in its Taurasi wines, despite DOCG rules permitting up to 15% other varieties, exemplifies this philosophy of varietal purity.

  • Antonio Mastroberardino (9th generation) revived nearly extinct Fiano and Greco di Tufo after WWII devastation and phylloxera losses
  • Until the early 1990s, Mastroberardino was Irpinia's only producer growing indigenous varieties to make quality wine
  • Mastroberardino makes Taurasi as 100% Aglianico, though DOCG regulations permit up to 15% other locally grown red grapes
  • Cultivated varieties include Aglianico, Fiano, Greco, Falanghina, Piedirosso, and Coda di Volpe, all native to Campania

🏆Flagship Wines and International Recognition

Master of Wine Mary Ewing-Mulligan has noted that the critical acclaim of Mastroberardino's 1968 Taurasi Riserva brought widespread international attention to the region and the potential of the Aglianico grape. For most of the 20th century, Mastroberardino accounted for over half of Campania's DOC wine production and more than 90% of Taurasi DOCG output. The Radici label, introduced as a Taurasi Riserva in 1986, is the estate's flagship; 'Radici' means 'roots' in Italian, referencing the family's role as guardian of Campanian heritage. The Radici Taurasi Riserva is sourced exclusively from Montemarano, aged approximately 30 months in a combination of Slavonian oak botti and used barriques, then held for up to 42 months in bottle before release. The 2016 vintage ranked in Wine Spectator's Top 10 wines of 2023. Wine experts Joe Bastianich and David Lynch noted the Radici wine 'essentially started the red-wine revolution of the Italian south.'

  • The 1968 Taurasi Riserva, highlighted by Master of Wine Mary Ewing-Mulligan, brought worldwide recognition to Aglianico
  • For most of the 20th century, responsible for over half of Campania's DOC production and over 90% of Taurasi DOCG output
  • Radici Taurasi Riserva first produced in 1986; sourced solely from the Montemarano vineyard at approximately 600 meters elevation
  • The 2016 Radici Taurasi Riserva ranked in Wine Spectator's Top 10 wines of 2023
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🏛️Villa dei Misteri and the Pompeii Legacy

In 1996, the Italian government and the Archaeological Superintendence of Pompeii selected Mastroberardino to lead the Villa dei Misteri project, replanting vineyards within Pompeii's ancient excavated walls using Roman viticultural techniques. Working with historians and ampelographers, the team examined imprints from vine roots preserved in volcanic ash and conducted DNA testing on ancient grape seeds, identifying Piedirosso and Sciascinoso (also known as Olivella) as the primary ancient Pompeian varieties. The project also drew on descriptions of Roman viticulture by Columella and Pliny the Elder. Vines were planted using chestnut stakes, matching Roman-era density. The first wine, the 2001 vintage named Villa dei Misteri after one of Pompeii's most celebrated restored sites, was produced in a run of approximately 1,721 bottles. Most bottles are auctioned with proceeds supporting restoration of the ancient wine cellar at Foro Bario within Pompeii.

  • Villa dei Misteri project launched in 1996 at the request of the Italian government and the Archaeological Superintendence of Pompeii
  • DNA testing and vine-root imprint analysis identified Piedirosso and Sciascinoso as the primary ancient Pompeian grape varieties
  • First vintage released was 2001, approximately 1,721 bottles; named after Pompeii's celebrated Villa of the Mysteries fresco site
  • Auction proceeds from Villa dei Misteri wines support restoration of Foro Bario, Pompeii's ancient wine cellar

🔍How to Identify and Evaluate

Mastroberardino wines express the volcanic minerality and high natural acidity that define Irpinia's mountain terroir. Greco di Tufo displays apple, lemon, and peach with volcanic mineral notes and brisk acidity, making it a natural partner for seafood. Fiano di Avellino shows hazelnut, honey, ripe pear, and white flowers with a subtle smoky edge on age; sandy soils in parts of the DOCG contribute toasted hazelnut character. Taurasi reds reveal black cherry, plum, violet, and spice in youth, with high tannins and vibrant acidity; with age they evolve tar-like aromas into cigar box, leather, and tea leaf complexity. Look for the Radici label on the flagship Taurasi and Fiano expressions, and the Naturalis Historia Taurasi sourced from old Mirabella Eclano vines. The Villa dei Misteri Rosso is a Pompeiano IGT of Piedirosso and Sciascinoso, available only at auction in very limited quantities.

  • Greco di Tufo: apple, lemon, peach, and volcanic minerality with crisp acidity; best with seafood and fried fish
  • Fiano di Avellino: hazelnut, honey, ripe pear, white flowers, and mineral edge; develops smoky notes with age; excellent aging potential
  • Taurasi: black cherry, plum, violet, and spice in youth evolving to tar, cigar box, leather, and tea leaf with extended cellaring
  • Radici Taurasi Riserva aged approximately 30 months in oak plus up to 42 months in bottle; Naturalis Historia sourced from oldest Mirabella Eclano vines
Flavor Profile

Greco di Tufo expresses apple, lemon, and peach with volcanic mineral notes and brisk, refreshing acidity. Fiano di Avellino offers hazelnut richness, honey, ripe pear, and white floral aromas with a mineral and subtle smoky edge that deepens with age. Taurasi reveals black cherry, plum, violet, and black pepper in youth, with high, fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity; extended aging develops tar-like character alongside cigar box, leather, and dried herb complexity. The house style emphasizes terroir transparency, natural acidity, and indigenous variety purity over international grape influence.

Food Pairings
Greco di Tufo with fried seafood, grilled white fish, or classic Neapolitan seafood antipastiGreco di Tufo with mozzarella di bufala or fresh ricottaFiano di Avellino with fish dishes from the Amalfi coast, spaghetti alle vongole, or shellfish risottoFiano di Avellino (aged) with roasted white meats, goat cheese, or almond-based pasta dishesTaurasi with braised lamb, slow-roasted beef, Neapolitan ragu, or aged hard cheesesTaurasi Riserva (10 or more years bottle age) with game meats, truffle-dressed risotto, or beef tenderloin
Wines to Try
  • Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino DOCG$15-18
    Revived from extinction post-WWII by Antonio Mastroberardino; delivers hazelnut, honey and volcanic minerality with vibrant acidity.Find →
  • Mastroberardino Greco di Tufo Nova Serra DOCG$25-27
    Cultivated in volcanic tuff soils near Tufo since the firm restored the ancient Greek variety; white peach, pear and flint minerality.Find →
  • Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino Radici DOCG$23-36
    Premium single-vineyard expression; concentrated hazelnut, stone fruit and subtle smoke with mineral salinity deepening with bottle age.Find →
  • Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici DOCG$39-63
    Standard bottling aged 24 months in barrel and 24 months in bottle; black cherry, pepper and violet with fine-grained tannins built for cellaring.Find →
  • Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva DOCG$80-107
    Flagship from Montemarano vineyard, 30 months in oak plus 40 months bottle aging; ranked Wine Spectator's Top 10 wines of 2023.Find →
How to Say It
Irpiniaeer-PEE-nyah
Taurasitow-RAH-zee
Aglianicoah-LYAH-nee-koh
Fiano di AvellinoFYAH-noh dee ah-veh-LEE-noh
Greco di TufoGREH-koh dee TOO-foh
Falanghinafah-lahn-GEE-nah
Piedirossopyeh-dee-ROH-soh
Sciascinososhah-shee-NOH-zoh
📝Exam Study NotesWSET / CMS
  • Founded 1878 by Angelo Mastroberardino in Atripalda; family winemaking roots to the mid-18th century. The family has produced wine across more than 11 generations, with Piero Mastroberardino (10th generation) serving as current president.
  • Taurasi = minimum 85% Aglianico (DOCG allows up to 15% other local red grapes); Mastroberardino uses 100% Aglianico. Taurasi received DOC in 1970 and DOCG in 1993. Minimum aging: 3 years (1 year in wood) for normale; 4 years (18 months in wood) for Riserva.
  • Fiano di Avellino DOCG and Greco di Tufo DOCG both received DOCG status in 2003. Fiano = minimum 85% Fiano; Greco di Tufo = minimum 85% Greco. Both are key white DOCGs of Irpinia alongside Taurasi DOCG (red).
  • Antonio Mastroberardino (9th generation) revived nearly extinct Fiano, Greco, and Aglianico post-WWII; earned the title 'The Grape Archaeologist.' Until the early 1990s, Mastroberardino was the sole Irpinian producer of quality indigenous wine. The 1968 Taurasi Riserva brought international recognition to Aglianico and cemented the 'Barolo of the South' reputation.
  • Villa dei Misteri project (1996): Italian government commissioned Mastroberardino to recreate ancient Pompeian viticulture. DNA testing identified Piedirosso and Sciascinoso as primary ancient varieties. First vintage (2001) comprised approximately 1,721 bottles auctioned to fund Pompeii restoration; wine classified as Pompeiano IGT.