Appassimento

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Appassimento is the Italian term for drying harvested grapes before they are vinified, which concentrates their sugar and flavor compounds and, at a lower rate, their acidity, according to Decanter. The OIV recognizes natural raisining in the sun or in ventilated rooms as a way to raise grape sugar. Italy's production rules build the technique into Amarone della Valpolicella, Recioto di Soave, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, Sforzato di Valtellina and Passito di Pantelleria, from Amarone's 100 or 120 days of drying and loss of at least half the grape weight to Vin Santo's minimum 24 months in small caratelli.

What It Is: Appassimento Defined

Appassimento is the Italian term for drying grapes off the vine, according to Decanter: grapes are harvested fresh and then allowed to dry before being vinified, and the term does not apply to grapes dried while hanging on the vine. Post-harvest drying lays bunches on straw, racks or other supports, or suspends them, in the sun, in the open or in a naturally ventilated enclosure, as the OIV International Code of Oenological Practices describes natural raisining. The OIV code lists natural raisining, raisining by physical treatment, selective sorting of grapes and cryoselection as practices that raise the sugar content of harvested grapes, and its definition of wine grapes allows fruit that is overripe, slightly raisined or affected by noble rot, provided it can be crushed or pressed normally and can undergo spontaneous alcoholic fermentation. WSET's Level 3 Award in Wines specification (issue 2, 2022) names drying grapes on the vine and drying grapes after picking, alongside noble rot and freezing grapes on the vine, as ways of concentrating grape sugars. Decanter traces records of the process back to ancient Greece.

  • Natural raisining (OIV): bunches exposed on straw, racks or other supports, or suspended, in the sun, in the open or in a naturally ventilated enclosure
  • Raisining by physical treatment (OIV): forced artificial ventilation of grapes at 35 to 40°C until the desired sugar content is reached; the OIV code marks its production conditions as still being studied
  • On-vine drying: WSET lists drying grapes on the vine as a separate way of concentrating sugars, and the Passito di Pantelleria MASAF rules allow grapes dried in the sun on the vine or after harvest
  • Noble rot can overlap: Decanter notes that Botrytis cinerea may develop on grapes during dehydration; most producers do not want it, though many use its effects to add complexity
Key Facts
  • Appassimento is the Italian term for drying grapes off the vine after harvest and before vinification; Decanter notes that it does not apply to grapes dried while still hanging on the vine.
  • The OIV International Code of Oenological Practices lists natural raisining (bunches on straw, racks or other supports, or suspended, in the sun or a naturally ventilated enclosure) and raisining by forced ventilation at 35 to 40°C as ways to raise grape sugar.
  • Amarone della Valpolicella's MASAF rules describe grapes staying in the fruttai for 100 or 120 days until they lose at least half their weight; the rules cap the grape-to-wine yield at 40% and bar vinification before 1 December.
  • The Amarone rules allow climate-controlled drying only at temperatures similar to traditional drying and exclude any heat-based dehumidification; the wine needs at least 14% vol and two years of ageing, four for Riserva.
  • Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC must be made and aged in wooden caratelli of no more than 3 hectolitres for at least 24 months; its Occhio di Pernice version takes at least 80% Sangiovese (MASAF rules).
  • Sforzato di Valtellina, a DOCG since 2003, is made only from dried grapes of at least 90% Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca), with 20 months of ageing, at least 12 in wooden barrels, from 1 April after harvest (MASAF rules).
  • Recioto di Soave DOCG (approved 1998) needs at least 70% Garganega and 70 g/L residual sugar; Passito di Pantelleria DOC (approved 1971) is made only from Zibibbo dried in the sun (MASAF rules).

How It Works: Physical and Chemical Changes During Drying

During drying, grapes lose water and their sugar and flavor compounds are concentrated; acidity is also concentrated, but not at the same rate, according to Decanter. In Decanter's example, total acidity in grapes undergoing a 40% dehydration rises not by 40% but by around 25%, significantly changing the structural balance of the resulting wines. Decanter also reports that resveratrol and glycerin levels increase, lending richness and a glossy texture. The Amarone della Valpolicella MASAF rules describe the drying phase as a series of complex transformations, from a decrease in acidity to a change in the ratio of glucose to fructose, that favor the concentration of polyphenols and a considerable increase in glycerin and substances such as resveratrol. The same rules describe Amarone grapes staying in the fruttai for 100 or 120 days until they lose at least half their weight. For Sforzato di Valtellina, the MASAF rules describe grapes dried until they lose about 30% of their water, taking sugar from about 18 to 20% at harvest to 26 to 27%.

  • Amarone weight loss: 100 or 120 days in the fruttai, until the grapes lose at least half their weight (MASAF rules)
  • Sforzato di Valtellina water loss: about 30% of the water, with sugar rising from about 18 to 20% to 26 to 27% (MASAF rules)
  • Acidity: Decanter reports total acidity rising by around 25% in grapes dehydrated by 40%, while the Amarone rules describe a decrease in acidity during drying
  • Glycerin and resveratrol increase during drying, according to both Decanter and the Amarone rules
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Effect on Wine Style: Flavor and Structure

Decanter explains that in Amarone the concentrated sugar gives a higher potential alcohol, often reaching 15 to 17%, and it links Amarone's powerful character to an intense extraction of flavors and tannins driven by the alcohol level and the long fermentation. The MASAF rules describe Amarone as deep red with garnet notes and a nose recalling dried fruit, tobacco and spice, and set a minimum actual alcohol of 14% vol. Recioto di Soave, under its MASAF rules, is golden yellow and sweet, with at least 70 g/L of residual reducing sugars and a minimum alcohol of 12% vol. Vin Santo del Chianti Classico ranges from straw yellow through gold and deep amber to brown and from dry to sweet, with a total alcohol of at least 16% vol, per its MASAF rules. Where grapes are dried under the sun, as on Pantelleria or Santorini, Decanter says drying happens quickly and develops intense caramelized aromas; in the Veneto's fruttai, drying over the winter months is slower, giving the grapes a chance to develop a more complex array of aromas and flavors.

  • Amarone: minimum 14% vol actual alcohol, with residual sugar capped at 9 g/L at 14% vol and allowed to rise with higher alcohol (MASAF rules)
  • Recioto di Soave: at least 70 g/L residual reducing sugars and a minimum of 12% vol alcohol (MASAF rules)
  • Vin Santo del Chianti Classico: at least 16% vol total alcohol, of which at least 10.5% vol fermented (MASAF rules)
  • Passito di Pantelleria: at least 20% vol total alcohol, of which at least 14% vol fermented (MASAF rules)

When Winemakers Use It: Regional Rules

Italian disciplinari codify these practices: Amarone della Valpolicella may not be vinified before 1 December unless the Veneto Region authorizes an earlier start in difficult weather; Recioto di Soave grapes must reach at least 14% vol natural alcohol after drying; and Vin Santo del Chianti Classico must be made and aged in wooden caratelli of no more than 3 hectolitres for at least 24 months. Under the Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG disciplinare, grapes are selected in the vineyard and no more than 65% of the maximum yield per hectare may be set aside to dry, with the remainder eligible for Valpolicella and Valpolicella Ripasso. The Amarone della Valpolicella disciplinare requires drying in suitable rooms and allows climate-control equipment only when it runs at temperatures similar to those of traditional drying, excluding any dehumidification system that uses heat. Recioto di Soave's MASAF rules likewise allow climate-control equipment at temperatures similar to traditional drying. Sforzato di Valtellina grapes must be vinified from 1 December, and its MASAF rules bar enrichment and concentration, including partial cold concentration and reverse osmosis. Vin Santo del Chianti Classico grapes undergo natural drying in suitable rooms, with partial dehydration by ventilated air allowed, and must reach a sugar content of at least 27% before crushing, with no enrichment allowed. Michael Garner writes in Decanter that appassimento is carried out in Valpolicella on a much wider scale than anywhere else.

  • Amarone: grapes set aside to dry may not exceed 65% of the maximum yield of 12 tonnes per hectare, and the grape-to-wine yield may not exceed 40% (MASAF rules)
  • Amarone, Recioto della Valpolicella and Sforzato di Valtellina: dried grapes are vinified no earlier than 1 December, unless the region authorizes an earlier start in difficult weather (MASAF rules)
  • Vin Santo del Chianti Classico: caratelli of no more than 3 hectolitres, at least 24 months from 1 January after harvest, and release no earlier than 1 November of the third year after harvest (MASAF rules)
  • Some Chianti Classico growers use the madre, an inoculation with yeasts selected over time that differ from estate to estate, according to the Vin Santo del Chianti Classico rules

Classic Examples

Amarone della Valpolicella (Veneto) is made from 45 to 95% Corvina Veronese and/or Corvinone and 5 to 30% Rondinella under its MASAF rules, whose DOCG text was approved by ministerial decree of 24 March 2010. Decanter's Michael Garner says Valpolicella grapes are dried for at least a couple of months and often as many as six before becoming Amarone or the region's sweet Recioto della Valpolicella. Recioto di Soave DOCG, approved in 1998, takes at least 70% Garganega, with Trebbiano di Soave making up the rest and up to 5% other permitted white grapes allowed within it; its rules describe intact grapes kept in dry, well-aired drying rooms for several months. Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC, approved in 1995, uses at least 60% Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia Bianca Lunga and Malvasia Bianca di Candia, while the Occhio di Pernice version takes at least 80% Sangiovese; its rules describe bunches hung or laid out in well-ventilated places for three to four months before vinification. Sforzato di Valtellina (Lombardy), a DOC from 1968 and a DOCG from 2003, is made only from dried grapes, at least 90% Nebbiolo, locally called Chiavennasca. Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Sicily), approved in 1971, is made only from Zibibbo dried in the sun, on the vine or after harvest.

  • Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG: Corvina Veronese and/or Corvinone 45 to 95%, Rondinella 5 to 30%; minimum 14% vol; ageing of at least two years from 1 January after harvest, Riserva four years from 1 November of the harvest year
  • Recioto di Soave DOCG: at least 70% Garganega; grapes at least 14% vol natural alcohol after drying; wine at least 70 g/L residual sugar
  • Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG: at least 90% Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca); at least 14% vol; 20 months of ageing, at least 12 in wooden barrels, counted from 1 April of the year after harvest
  • Passito di Pantelleria DOC: Zibibbo only, dried in the sun; at least 20% vol total alcohol, of which 14% vol fermented
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Technical Challenges and Winemaking Considerations

Susan Hulme MW, quoted by Decanter from its 2017 panel tasting, said decisions around drying the grapes, length of appassimento and time fermenting on skins make dramatic differences to style and quality. The Amarone MASAF rules describe bunches checked every day and turned during drying so that imperfect berries can be removed. Noble rot is a recurring choice: Decanter reports that some Amarone producers accept a small proportion of the fungus before full sporulation, which can add honeyed notes and boost glycerol. Appassimento grapes are slowly pressed and slowly fermented to make Amarone, according to Decanter. In Amarone, the alcohol level eventually kills off the yeast, so the wine is not fermented to complete dryness, according to Decanter. For Recioto, Decanter writes, fermentation stops well before the sugars have been converted to alcohol; it can stop naturally, but the arrest is normally induced by cooling the must and then filtering it. Amarone must age at least two years from 1 January after the harvest, and Riserva at least four years from 1 November of the harvest year, under its MASAF rules, which describe the first two years in wooden containers. Barrels range from French and Slavonian oak to chestnut, cherry and acacia, according to Michael Garner in Decanter, who adds that newer, smaller oak barrels are common though there seems to be a return to larger, older wood.

  • Daily checks: the Amarone rules describe bunches checked every day and turned to remove imperfect berries
  • Fermentation: in Amarone the rising alcohol eventually kills off the yeast; for Recioto, winemakers normally stop fermentation by cooling and filtering (Decanter)
  • Amarone wood ageing: a minimum of two years in wood, up to nine or 10 in rare cases, per Michael Garner in Decanter
  • Modernist Amarone: Decanter describes controlled appassimento and mainly smaller (225L or 500L) new oak barrels

Sources and last verified

Primary sources (MASAF production rules, OIV and WSET): https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252Fa%252Fe%252FD.8495fb8195fb9f88e44b/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4625/E/7z?mode=download (Amarone della Valpolicella), https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252F2%252F3%252FD.8ccd09a077f2ec35dc9b/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4625/E/7z?mode=download (Recioto della Valpolicella), https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252F2%252F3%252FD.8ccd09a077f2ec35dc9b/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4625/E/7z?mode=download (Recioto di Soave), https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252F2%252F3%252FD.8ccd09a077f2ec35dc9b/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4625/E/7z?mode=download (Vin Santo del Chianti Classico), https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252F2%252F3%252FD.8ccd09a077f2ec35dc9b/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4625/E/7z?mode=download (Sforzato di Valtellina), https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252F2%252F3%252FD.8ccd09a077f2ec35dc9b/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4625/E/7z?mode=download (Pantelleria), https://www.oiv.int/standards/international-code-of-oenological-practices/part-i-definitions/special-wines, https://www.oiv.int/standards/international-code-of-oenological-practices/part-i-definitions/grapes/wine-grapes, https://www.oiv.int/standards/international-code-of-oenological-practices/part-ii-oenological-treatments-and-practices/grapes/control-of-the-sugar-content-of-the-harvested-grapes, https://www.oiv.int/standards/international-code-of-oenological-practices/part-ii-oenological-treatments-and-practices/grapes/raisining-by-physical-treatment, https://www.wsetglobal.com/media/11731/wset_l3wines_specification_en_highres_may2022_issue2.pdf. Secondary sources: https://www.decanter.com/learn/advice/what-is-the-difference-between-ripasso-and-appassimento-ask-decanter-377975/, https://www.decanter.com/learn/amarone-wine-ask-decanter-382575/, https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews-tastings/introducing-appassimento-wines-from-veneto-357089/. The MASAF production rules are members of the MASAF DOP disciplinari archives (A-D and O-Z) named in brackets. Last verified 2026-09-25

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Flavor Profile

Under their MASAF production rules, Amarone della Valpolicella is deep red with garnet notes and a nose recalling dried fruit, tobacco and spice, with a full, velvety, warm palate; Recioto di Soave is golden yellow, intense and fruity, sweet and velvety, with an almond note; Vin Santo del Chianti Classico runs from straw yellow to amber and brown, ethereal and intense, from dry to sweet; Sforzato di Valtellina is ruby with possible garnet reflections, intense with ripe-fruit notes, dry and structured; and Passito di Pantelleria is golden tending to amber, sweet and aromatic of Moscato. Decanter adds that higher glycerin gives appassimento wines a glossy texture and that sun-drying develops intense caramelized aromas.

Food Pairings
Amarone della Valpolicella with braised short ribs, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, roasted game birds, and wild mushroom risotto; tannin structure and concentrated fruit complement rich umami preparationsVin Santo del Chianti Classico with cantucci (Tuscan almond biscotti), Pecorino Toscano stagionato, and honey-poached pears; the classic Tuscan pairing exploiting oxidative, nutty, and honeyed characterSforzato di Valtellina with venison stew, aged Bitto cheese, and roasted root vegetables; Nebbiolo's tannic backbone and dried-fruit concentration align with alpine cuisineRecioto di Soave with Gorgonzola dolce, apricot crostata, and fresh ricotta with honey; minerality and acidity balance blue-cheese pungency and fruit-forward dessert richnessTokaji Aszú (6-puttonyos) with foie gras terrine, Roquefort, and caramelized stone-fruit tarts; botrytis-driven sweetness and acidity mirror the richness of luxurious savory and sweet preparationsRecioto della Valpolicella (sweet red) with dark chocolate fondant, cherry clafoutis, and aged hard cheeses; the wine's residual sugar and concentrated red fruit echo the depth of chocolate and berry desserts
How to Say It
appassimentoah-pah-see-MEN-toh
passitopah-SEE-toh
passerillagepah-suh-ree-YAZH
fruttaifroo-TYE
caratellikah-rah-TEL-lee
vinsantaiaveen-sahn-TYE-ah
Chiavennascakyah-ven-NAH-skah
Occhio di PerniceOHK-kyoh dee per-NEE-cheh
Exam Study NotesWSET / CMS
  • Appassimento = drying grapes off the vine after harvest (Decanter). OIV natural raisining = bunches on straw, racks or other supports, or suspended, in the sun, in the open or in a naturally ventilated enclosure; OIV raisining by physical treatment = forced artificial ventilation at 35 to 40°C. WSET groups drying on the vine and drying after picking with noble rot and freezing on the vine as ways to concentrate grape sugars.
  • Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (MASAF rules): Corvina Veronese and/or Corvinone 45 to 95%, Rondinella 5 to 30%; no more than 65% of the maximum yield set aside to dry; 100 or 120 days in the fruttai to lose at least half the weight; no vinification before 1 December; grape-to-wine yield max 40%; min 14% vol; ageing 2 years from 1 January after harvest, Riserva 4 years from 1 November of the harvest year.
  • Drying chemistry: water loss concentrates sugar and flavor compounds; acidity rises less (around 25% for a 40% dehydration, per Decanter); glycerin and resveratrol increase. Noble rot may develop during drying; most producers do not want it, many use it for complexity (Decanter).
  • Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC (MASAF rules): min 60% Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia Bianca Lunga and Malvasia Bianca di Candia; Occhio di Pernice min 80% Sangiovese; grapes at least 27% sugar before crushing; caratelli max 3 hl for at least 24 months; release from 1 November of the third year after harvest; min 16% vol total alcohol.
  • Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG (2003): min 90% Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca), vinified from 1 December, min 14% vol, 20 months ageing with 12 in wood from 1 April after harvest. Recioto di Soave DOCG (1998): min 70% Garganega, min 70 g/L residual sugar, min 12% vol. Passito di Pantelleria DOC (1971): Zibibbo only, dried in the sun, min 20% vol total alcohol.

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