2014 Sonoma Vintage

2014 was the second in a series of drought vintages statewide, with early flowering after a mild winter. In Sonoma the growing season was easygoing, got off to an early start and was moderately warm all year, while continued drought conditions stressed some vineyards and raised long-term concerns for vineyard health and production. In the month before harvest began, moderate temperatures with morning fog and afternoon sun helped the grapes mature and ripen at an optimal pace. Across California the summer was cooler than 2013 and largely uninterrupted by heat spikes. By midsummer some vintners in the Alexander and Dry Creek valleys worried that sugars were ahead of flavor development, but cool weather in September stalled ripening. Harvest opened on Wednesday, July 30 at 10:15 p.m., when approximately 8 tons of Pinot Meunier were hand-harvested for sparkling wine from J Vineyards and Winery's Nicole's Vineyard on Eastside Road in the Russian River Valley. Sonoma County Winegrowers and Sonoma County Vintners called it one of the earliest harvest starts on record. At that point most winegrowers predicted still-wine picking would begin approximately 1 to 2 weeks earlier than average, around mid- to late August, and end sometime in October. Carlisle winemaker Mike Officer called it the earliest and most condensed harvest he had experienced: "Had it not rained a little in the latter half of September, our harvest would have been over before Oct. 1." On yields, Sonoma voices differed: Ferrari-Carano winemaker Sarah Quider spoke of average yields, while Bedrock winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson expected concentrated wines but not in the volume of the abundant 2012 and 2013 vintages.

• An early start and moderately warm all year, with continued drought stressing some vineyards
• Moderate temperatures, morning fog and afternoon sun in the month before harvest helped grapes ripen at an optimal pace
• Cool September weather stalled ripening after midsummer worries in the Alexander and Dry Creek valleys
• First pick on July 30 at 10:15 p.m.: Pinot Meunier for sparkling wine from Nicole's Vineyard in the Russian River Valley
• A little rain in the latter half of September kept Carlisle's harvest from ending before Oct. 1

"Slow and steady wins the race seemed to be the mantra of the year," said St. Francis winemaker Katie Rose Madigan. The early, long and modestly warm season allowed most Sonoma County winemakers the luxury of picking at the optimum time. With many varieties ripening at the same time, Benovia winemaker Mike Sullivan said tank space was at a premium. Across California, later ripening varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon were picked hard on the heels of earlier ripening ones, placing wineries under logistical pressures.

• Most Sonoma winemakers could pick at the optimum time
• Many varieties ripened at once, leaving tank space at a premium at Benovia
• Across California, Cabernet Sauvignon followed hard on the heels of earlier varieties

Wine Spectator's report listed Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel as the promising Sonoma grapes. Sebastiani winemaker Mark Lyon called 2014 "an excellent Cabernet year." "We'll be seeing some higher alcohols," said Ferrari-Carano winemaker Sarah Quider, "but overall quality is great, with nice, ripe aromas and flavors with average yields." Pinot Noir showed excellent potential, although some regions fared better than others. Siduri winemaker Adam Lee said acids were generally softer, "and that makes me think it will be a fairly showy vintage right off, as opposed to 2012." Benovia's Sullivan agreed: "The young wines are exhibiting intense aromatics with ripe but fine tannins and amazingly intense color." Decanter called Pinot Noir the real success story of 2014 across California, naming Sonoma among its standout areas, and described the state's Pinots as deep, supple and site-expressive, potentially the best since 1994. Decanter also counted Sonoma among the places where Cabernet Sauvignon produced a strong set of wines, and said Sonoma fared rather better than Paso Robles with Rhone varieties in the drought.

• Wine Spectator's promising Sonoma grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel
• Sebastiani's Mark Lyon: "an excellent Cabernet year"
• Pinot Noir: softer acids and intense aromatics and color, said Siduri's Adam Lee and Benovia's Mike Sullivan
• Decanter (California-wide): Pinot Noir the real success story, potentially the best since 1994