2009 Rioja & Spain Vintage

Rainfall during the winter rest, November to February, was especially high, and winter and spring were cold and wet. Bud break reached 100 percent, fertility was normal and fruit set was very satisfactory; from flowering in May and June the cycle ran about ten days ahead of previous years. The worst incident came on 24 May, when hail seriously damaged about 1,700 hectares in Rioja Oriental, the DOCa's most Mediterranean zone. Summer brought intense heat, with maximums of 35 to 37 C, so alcoholic ripeness ran ahead of phenolic ripeness, and summer drought put water stress on part of the vineyard, especially on arid, stony plots, though most vines in all three zones coped well. A lack of rain in August and the first half of September caused worries that the grapes would not develop fully. Rain on 16, 17 and 18 September fell across the whole Denomination when only about 5 percent of the crop had been picked, mostly white grapes in the east; it eased the water stress and brought alcoholic and phenolic ripeness into balance. From then to the end of harvest the weather stayed dry and sunny, with a near absence of pests and disease. Picking began on 27 August at Aldeanueva de Ebro in Rioja Oriental and ended on 26 October near Haro in Rioja Alta, the usual two months of harvest but among the earliest dates in Rioja's recent history. The main harvest started near the end of September and finished just before more rain and fog arrived. The crop reached 412.3 million kg, equal to 2007 and slightly above 2008; high expectations made green harvesting necessary in many plots to keep yields within the limits.

In Decanter's zone-by-zone view, Rioja Alta "seemed to have the best of both worlds", escaping the worst of the rains and enjoying a long, hot summer. Rioja Alavesa suffered more than the other two from the early and late rains and made some excellent cosecha and Crianza wines, but probably fewer Reservas and Gran Reservas than in a regular year. In Rioja Baja, good sugar and phenolic ripeness gave some very good wines despite the May hail, and picking started very early, on 27 August. The Wines from Spain round-up on JancisRobinson.com points to Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja for the best wines, and to younger drinking wines from the Alavesa, which saw more rain during harvest.

• Rioja Alta: escaped the worst of the rains, long hot summer; harvest ended near Haro on 26 October
• Decanter on Rioja Alavesa: more affected by rain; excellent cosecha and Crianza, probably fewer Reservas and Gran Reservas
• Rioja Baja: good sugar and phenolic ripeness despite hail on about 1,700 ha; first picking 27 August
• Wines from Spain round-up: best wines from Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja, younger drinking wines from the Alavesa

The Consejo Regulador gave 2009 the official rating "Muy Buena" (Very Good) after analysis and tasting of 4,211 samples representing 297.76 million litres made. It was the fourth "Muy Buena" in a row, after 2006, 2007 and 2008, though polyphenol and color index requirements had been added to the rating parameters. Of the 273.37 million litres that qualified, 246.67 million were red. The 412.3 million kg crop came from 657 wineries: 331 criadores, 38 cooperatives, 47 almacenistas and 241 cosecheros. Yield limits are set at 6,500 kg/ha for red grapes and 9,500 kg/ha for white. The two vintages that followed, 2010 and 2011, were both rated "Excelente".

• Official rating "Muy Buena" (Very Good), the fourth in a row
• 4,211 samples assessed from 297.76 million litres made; 273.37 million litres qualified
• 657 wineries: 331 criadores, 38 cooperatives, 47 almacenistas, 241 cosecheros
• Yield limits 6,500 kg/ha red and 9,500 kg/ha white

Writing on JancisRobinson.com, Victor de la Serna called 2009 a two-faced story: a happy one in the northern half, a less happy one in the south and much of the Mediterranean. He likened the Spain-wide season to 2003, with fewer days above 40 C but a higher average temperature and even more drought. In the north, including Rioja and Ribera del Duero, timely rains from mid-September rescued many vineyards and gave a sizeable harvest, while his overview gives the Spain-wide crop as 13 percent smaller than 2008's. The Wines from Spain round-up points to Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro and Navarra for the best reds and calls Ribera del Duero much better than recent years, with the best wines from October picking. It also calls the Priorat picture mixed, with some areas hit by heat spikes near 40 C in three different weeks.

• Spain-wide: Victor de la Serna likens the season to 2003, hotter on average and drier
• Northern regions rescued by mid-September rain; his overview gives the Spain-wide crop as 13 percent below 2008
• Wines from Spain round-up: best reds from Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro and Navarra
• Priorat mixed, with heat spikes near 40 C in three different weeks; Madrid saw 38 to 40 C in August

In the Consejo's own assessment, the wines are marked by balance and structure, with reds showing good polyphenolic load, intense color and tannins able to evolve, making the best of them strong candidates for ageing as Reserva and Gran Reserva; La Rioja Alta, S.A. included 2009 in its Gran Reserva 904. The Consejo's assessment today is that the vintage's ageing wines are at full maturity or well into their best phase, depending on type and producer. Decanter calls quality generally high and the year a "useful" vintage, probably for drinking relatively early. Decanter's producer list names Izadi and Remirez de Ganuza as on top form in Rioja Alavesa, Muga and CVNE as reliable in Rioja Alta, where RODA and Finca Allende "continue to astonish", and Baron de Ley and Palacios Remondo among the Rioja Baja stalwarts.

• In the Consejo's assessment: balanced, structured reds with intense color, suited to Reserva and Gran Reserva ageing
• La Rioja Alta, S.A. included 2009 in its Gran Reserva 904
• Decanter: a "useful" vintage, probably for drinking relatively early
• Decanter names Izadi, Remirez de Ganuza, Contador, Muga, CVNE, RODA and Finca Allende