2003 Germany & Mosel Riesling Vintage

Extremely hot conditions made 2003 a growing season hard to compare with others of the past, though a few growers with long memories recalled the hot summer of 1947. The whole country experienced these conditions, from Sachsen in the former East Germany to Baden in the southwest, and early ripening and the hot summer led to speedy ripening, in general about three weeks ahead of normal, and to drought stress, with scarcely a drop of rain for eight weeks. Green-harvesting was common at quality-conscious estates, and irrigation was permitted, though few growers had drip irrigation systems; where irrigation was not feasible, many parcels of young vines on shallow soils suffered badly from the heat. In the Mosel and elsewhere, a spell of rain in early September helped restore many parched vines. By early October many quality-conscious Mosel estates had not yet begun the Riesling harvest, since the grapes were healthy and there was no rush beyond continuing worries about low acidity. Decanter expected Mosel yields around one third lower than usual, while noting that the harvest had only just begun, so it was hard to be certain.

• Germany-wide: extremely hot, with ripening about three weeks ahead of normal and scarcely a drop of rain for eight weeks
• Irrigation was permitted, but few growers had drip systems; young vines on shallow soils suffered badly where it was not feasible
• Mosel: a spell of rain in early September helped restore many parched vines
• Many quality-conscious Mosel estates had not begun the Riesling harvest by early October; yields expected around one third lower than usual

Decanter expected considerable variations from region to region and village to village, stemming from the vines' ability to withstand the lack of water, with superlative wines from some sites and disappointing ones from neighbouring sites within the same estate. In the northern Nahe, Armin Diel found acidity levels remaining high, though Decanter said that was not likely to be the case elsewhere. In the Pfalz, Riesling was picked from late September onwards in fine conditions, and the Rheingau harvested during the second half of October. Decanter estimated the German crop at 20 percent lower than normal, with small berries and relatively low juice extraction; Rheingau yields were close to normal, Franken was estimated 30 percent down, and some southerly regions such as Wurttemberg predicted a crop 20 to 50 percent lower than average.

• Variation expected region to region and village to village, driven by the vines' ability to withstand the lack of water
• Pfalz Riesling picked from late September onwards; the Rheingau harvested in the second half of October
• German crop estimated at 20 percent lower than normal, with small berries
• Rheingau yields close to normal; Franken 30 percent down; Wurttemberg forecasts 20 to 50 percent lower

Sugar levels were easy to attain in 2003, and by late September average sugar levels at top Mosel estates were very high, while acidities, on the low side, had stabilized. Loss of acidity was the concern with white grapes, and EU authorities granted permission to acidify where the pH was higher than 3.3. In the Rheingau, Schloss Vollrads picked a Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) at over 300 Oechsle in September, which Decanter calls twice the legal requirement for TBA, and other estates in Baden and the Rheingau made wines almost as spectacular. These were not traditional botrytis wines but came from individually picked berries that had shrivelled and raisined after the very hot summer.

• Top Mosel estates: very high average sugar levels by late September, with low but stabilized acidity
• EU permission to acidify where the pH was higher than 3.3
• Rheingau: a Schloss Vollrads Riesling TBA at over 300 Oechsle, picked in September
• Those Rheingau and Baden sweet wines came from shrivelled, raisined berries, not botrytis

Decanter judged it too early, at the time of its report, for a final verdict on Riesling, which in some areas had yet to be harvested. In the Mosel, growers were predicting an inconsistent vintage, with some outstanding wines and others Decanter calls frankly mediocre. Decanter said 2003 could be a great year for red wines across Germany, especially Pinot Noir.

• Mosel growers predicted an inconsistent vintage
• Too early for a final Riesling verdict at harvest time
• Germany-wide, 2003 could be a great red wine year, especially for Pinot Noir