Lacrima di Morro d'Alba DOC

The Lacrima grape has been associated with Morro d'Alba since at least the 12th century. Local tradition holds that Frederick Barbarossa requisitioned local supplies of the wine while occupying the Castle of Morro d'Alba during the Siege of Ancona in 1167. Formal scientific documentation of the variety first appeared in the 19th century. Despite this long history, the grape suffered a severe contraction during the 20th century as producers replaced it with higher-yielding, more disease-resistant varieties. By the early 1980s, only around 1 hectare remained under vine. A small group of dedicated producers in Ancona province fought for its survival, and in 1985 DOC recognition was granted, cementing the variety's comeback. Today approximately 140 hectares are in production.

• Local tradition records Frederick Barbarossa drinking wine from the Lacrima grape at the Castle of Morro d'Alba in 1167 during the Siege of Ancona.
• Lacrima's thin, fragile skin makes it susceptible to disease and pests, which drove its near-extinction during the 20th century.
• DOC recognition in 1985 halted the decline; plantings have since grown from roughly 1 hectare to approximately 140 hectares under vine.

The denomination sits in the rolling hills of the Ancona hinterland, no more than 25 km from the Adriatic Sea. Vineyards are situated at elevations between 150 and 250 meters above sea level, on deep soils particularly rich in fine clays and limestone. These pedological conditions support excellent water retention and mineral complexity in the grapes. The proximity of the Adriatic moderates temperature extremes, providing warm summers, adequate annual rainfall of 700 to 800 mm, and cooling maritime breezes that slow ripening and preserve acidity. Lacrima thrives on hilly, well-ventilated sites with clay-rich soils and good sun exposure.

• Vineyards lie 150 to 250 meters above sea level on deep, clay-limestone soils with high mineral content.
• Annual precipitation averages 700 to 800 mm; the Adriatic Sea, no more than 25 km away, moderates summer temperatures.
• Lacrima requires sunny, well-ventilated hillside sites to develop aromatic intensity while preserving natural acidity.
• In the case of Senigallia, DOC production is restricted, excluding valley floors and slopes facing directly toward the sea.

Lacrima is a rare, semi-aromatic red variety native to Marche, genetically related to Aleatico and Muscat Blanc. At peak maturity the grape's skin ruptures, releasing small drops of juice that give the variety its name. This fragility also means that producers must harvest rapidly, limiting their flexibility in picking date. The variety produces deeply pigmented, nearly opaque wines with an extraordinarily intense floral bouquet, driven by a high concentration of the terpene geraniol. The signature aromas are rose and violet, followed by wild strawberry, cherry, and raspberry. The Superiore is sometimes aged in French oak, which introduces notes of blackberry and juniper. A passito style also exists, made from dried grapes. The DOC permits the governo Toscano winemaking technique, involving a second fermentation triggered by fresh must from partially dried grapes, which must be completed by December 31 of the harvest year.

• Three official styles: Rosso (base), Superiore, and Passito; dry, off-dry (abboccato), and sweet (dolce) expressions are all permitted.
• Dominant aromatics of rose and violet are produced by high geraniol concentration; wild strawberry, cherry, and raspberry follow on the palate.
• Thin, fragile skins require rapid harvesting and yield soft, refined tannins and a deeply colored but light-bodied wine.
• The governo Toscano method, where fresh must from partially dried grapes triggers a second fermentation, must be completed by December 31 of the harvest year.

The appellation is made by a limited number of estates, with key figures having championed the variety through its darkest years. Marotti Campi, whose family acquired land in the Sant'Amico district of Morro d'Alba in the mid-19th century, relaunched commercial winemaking in 1999 under Giovanni Marotti Campi and produces two flagship Lacrima wines, the Rubico and the Superiore Orgiolo. Stefano Mancinelli, who established his winery in the 1970s and was joined by his son Luca in 2012, was one of the earliest and most tireless advocates for the variety in Italy and abroad. Other well-known producers include Mario Lucchetti, Luigi Giusti, Conti di Buscareto, Podere Santa Lucia, and Tenuta di Fra.

• Marotti Campi: family land dates to the mid-19th century; current winery operations launched in 1999 by Giovanni Marotti Campi, now continued with son Lorenzo.
• Stefano Mancinelli: founded in the 1970s, one of the earliest modern champions of Lacrima; son Luca joined in 2012. Roughly 80% of production is sold directly from the cellar.
• Mario Lucchetti holds some of the oldest planted Lacrima vines in the DOC, with a long family history in Morro d'Alba.
• Other respected estates include Luigi Giusti, Conti di Buscareto, Podere Santa Lucia, and Tenuta di Fra.

Lacrima di Morro d'Alba is a denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) covering only red wines produced in the province of Ancona, Marche. The DOC was created in 1985. All three styles, Rosso, Superiore, and Passito, must contain a minimum of 85% Lacrima grapes; up to 15% of other permitted red grapes (Montepulciano, Sangiovese) or the white variety Verdicchio may be included. Minimum alcohol is 11% for Rosso, 12% for Superiore, and 13% for Passito (with 15% potential). The Passito style requires drying of Lacrima grapes until a minimum of 210 g/l of sugar is achieved. All vinification and bottling must occur within the six authorized municipalities of Ancona province.

• Minimum Lacrima content: 85% for all three styles (Rosso, Superiore, Passito).
• Permitted blending varieties: Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Verdicchio, up to 15% in total.
• Alcohol minimums: 11% Rosso, 12% Superiore, 13% Passito (15% potential alcohol). Passito grapes must reach at least 210 g/l sugar before pressing.
• All vinification and bottling must occur within the six authorized municipalities: Morro d'Alba, Belvedere Ostrense, Monte San Vito, Ostra, San Marcello, and Senigallia.

Morro d'Alba is a walled hilltop village in the province of Ancona, situated between the Apennine foothills and the Adriatic coast, roughly midway between Ancona and Jesi. The area is characterized by gently rolling hills, small family estates, and a relatively modest wine tourism infrastructure compared to better-known Italian regions. Local tradition has documented the production of red wines here since at least the 12th century. Regional cuisine features pasta with meat sauces, cured meats such as ciauscolo, roasted and grilled meats, and medium-aged cheeses, all of which complement Lacrima's vibrant floral character and fresh acidity. The region shares its Adriatic hillside landscape with the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOCG, Marche's most celebrated white wine appellation.

• Morro d'Alba sits between the Apennines and the Adriatic coast, about 25 km from the sea, in a landscape of calcareous rolling hills.
• The DOC area shares its territory and many producers with the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi zone, a DOCG for white wines.
• Morro d'Alba's association with red wine production is documented in local chronicles dating to the 12th century.
• A small number of estates offer cellar-door visits and tastings; advance booking is advised for smaller family producers.