Cesanese

Cesanese is one of Lazio's most ancient grape varieties, believed to be indigenous to the region with possible Roman origins. Documented agricultural contracts from the 1400s confirm its long presence in central Italy, and some scholars suggest Pliny the Elder may have referenced it as 'alveole'. The name derives either from the Cesano locality near Rome or from the Latin 'Cesae', meaning a place of cut trees. The variety suffered serious decline through the 20th century as urban expansion consumed vineyard land and rural populations shifted away from agriculture. A meaningful revival began in the early 2000s, driven by quality-focused winemakers committed to showcasing the grape's potential.

• Documented in agricultural contracts dating to the 1400s
• Name linked to Cesano locality near Rome or Latin 'Cesae' (place of cut trees)
• Significant decline through the 20th century due to urbanization and rural depopulation
• Quality revival began in the early 2000s with a new generation of producers

Cesanese exists in two principal biotypes that behave quite differently in the vineyard and the cellar. Cesanese Comune produces larger berries and a more robust vine, making it easier to cultivate. Cesanese di Affile bears smaller berries and is regarded as the superior biotype, delivering greater aromatic complexity and concentration. Cesanese di Affile is notably diverse within itself, featuring 30 distinct clones, of which approximately 10 are considered ideal for quality winemaking. Both biotypes are late ripening, typically reaching harvest in the first half of October, and full phenolic maturity is not guaranteed in every vintage.

• Cesanese Comune: larger berries, more vigorous and robust in the vineyard
• Cesanese di Affile: smaller berries, greater complexity, considered the superior biotype
• Cesanese di Affile encompasses 30 distinct clones, roughly 10 suitable for quality production
• Both biotypes ripen extremely late, typically early-to-mid October

Cesanese is grown across approximately 400 to 860 hectares in three distinct appellations in Lazio. Cesanese del Piglio DOCG, situated in the Province of Frosinone in the foothills of the Apennines, is the flagship appellation and holds the distinction of being the only red DOCG in Lazio. Cesanese di Affile DOC and Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC are both located in the Province of Rome. Vineyards range from 200 to 900 meters above sea level, with most plantings between 300 and 550 meters. The cool continental climate, combined with significant diurnal temperature variation at elevation, helps preserve the variety's natural acidity and aromatic freshness. Soils vary considerably across the zones, including iron-rich red clay, volcanic material, calcareous rock, tuff, sandstone, and terre rosse.

• Cesanese del Piglio DOCG (Province of Frosinone) is the only red DOCG in Lazio
• Cesanese di Affile DOC and Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC are in the Province of Rome
• Vineyards sit between 200 and 900 meters; Cesanese di Affile reaches the highest elevations
• Diverse soils include volcanic, calcareous, tuff, sandstone, and terre rosse (red clay-limestone)

Modern Cesanese is predominantly produced as a dry still red wine, a shift from the historic tradition of sweet, frizzante, and spumante styles. The wines are medium-bodied with moderate color and soft tannins, underpinned by lively acidity. Typical flavor descriptors include ripe cherry, mulberry, red berries, violet, spice, and forest floor. Minimal or no oak aging is the recommended approach, and the wines are generally best consumed young. Cesanese can be blended with permitted varieties including Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Barbera, and Trebbiano Toscano, though varietal-labeled wines must contain at least 90% Cesanese. The grape remains rare outside Lazio, with only small plantings recorded in Tuscany and Umbria.

• Dry still red is now the dominant style; historically sweet, frizzante, and spumante were common
• Flavor profile: ripe cherry, mulberry, violet, spice, and forest floor; soft tannins and lively acidity
• Minimal oak aging recommended; wines suited to early consumption
• Minimum 90% Cesanese required for varietal-labeled wines; blending partners include Sangiovese and Montepulciano