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Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley AVA

Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley, established as Washington's 13th AVA on November 19, 2012, covers 162,762 acres in central Washington's Quincy Basin. Named for a series of 35 lakes formed by the cataclysmic Missoula Floods at the end of the last Ice Age, this northerly sub-AVA of Columbia Valley is one of Washington's cooler growing regions and is overwhelmingly planted to white varieties, with Riesling as its signature grape. The Columbia River forms the western boundary, moderating frost risk, while higher elevations and large diurnal swings preserve bright acidity in the fruit.

Key Facts
  • Established November 19, 2012, as Washington State's 13th AVA by the TTB; covers 162,762 acres in Grant, Douglas, and Kittitas Counties
  • Named after a series of 35 lakes formed by the Missoula Floods at the end of the last Ice Age, sitting in coulees carved into the Columbia River rim
  • White grapes planted on higher elevations averaging 1,200 to 1,500 feet along the Beezley Hills and Evergreen and Babcock ridges
  • Riesling is by far the most planted variety at approximately 45% of acreage; Chardonnay follows at roughly 38%, with Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc making up most of the remainder
  • Over 3,000 vineyard acres planted to more than 20 vinifera varieties; the Washington State Wine Commission recorded 1,604 acres under vine at designation
  • 65 distinct soil types have been identified across the AVA; predominant soils are fine sand, silt, and sandy loam, with caliche deposits rich in calcium carbonate at key sites such as Evergreen Vineyard
  • Average annual precipitation is approximately 6 inches, one of the lowest in the Columbia Valley, due to the strong rain shadow of the Cascade Mountains

📜History & Heritage

Grape growing in the Ancient Lakes region predates the AVA by decades, with vineyards planted as early as the 1970s and Vince and Carol Bryan establishing what would become Cave B Estate Winery's vineyards in 1980. Cameron Fries launched White Heron Cellars in the mid-1980s, making his first wine in 1986 and planting his first vines in 1991, making it the area's oldest continuously operating winery. Milbrandt brothers Butch and Jerry, longtime Quincy-area farmers, planted the landmark Evergreen Vineyard in 1997. The formal AVA petition was driven by Cameron Fries of White Heron Cellars and Dr. Joan R. Davenport, a soil sciences professor at Washington State University, with support from Cave B, Milbrandt Vineyards, Jones of Washington, and Ryan Patrick, culminating in federal approval in October 2012.

  • Vineyards in the Ancient Lakes region date to the 1970s; Cave B Estate Winery's vineyards were founded in 1980, with the winery opening in 2000
  • White Heron Cellars, owned and operated by Cameron Fries, has been the region's oldest continuously operating winery since 1986
  • Milbrandt Vineyards' Evergreen Vineyard, planted in 1997, represents approximately 60% of the planted acreage in the AVA today
  • AVA petition submitted by Cameron Fries and WSU soil scientist Dr. Joan R. Davenport; federally approved October 18, 2012, effective for wine labeling November 19, 2012

🌍Geography & Climate

Ancient Lakes occupies the western half of the Quincy Basin, bounded by the Columbia River to the west, the Winchester Wasteway to the east, the Beezley Hills to the north, and the Frenchman Hills to the south. Sitting deep in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountains, the AVA receives only about 6 inches of annual precipitation, making irrigation essential. As one of Washington's more northerly appellations, heat accumulation begins later in the season and tapers off sooner, resulting in a cooler growing environment than most Columbia Valley AVAs. Large diurnal temperature swings, especially in autumn, help lock in natural acidity. The Columbia River along the western boundary provides important frost protection for many vineyard sites.

  • Boundaries: Columbia River (west), Winchester Wasteway (east), Beezley Hills (north), Frenchman Hills (south), spanning Grant, Douglas, and Kittitas Counties
  • Annual rainfall of approximately 6 inches; irrigation sourced primarily from the Quincy-Columbia Irrigation District
  • Northerly latitude and higher elevations (averaging 1,200 to 1,500 feet for white wine vineyards) create a cooler, shorter growing season than southern Columbia Valley AVAs
  • Columbia River moderates early and late-season frost risk; large diurnal swings in autumn help preserve grape acidity through harvest

🍇Key Grapes & Wine Styles

Ancient Lakes is one of the very few Washington AVAs planted predominantly to white varieties. Riesling dominates at around 45% of acreage, producing dry to off-dry wines prized for bright citrus aromatics, floral notes, crisp acidity, and noticeable minerality influenced by caliche-rich soils. Chardonnay accounts for roughly 38% of plantings, with Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc rounding out the white wine emphasis. Red varieties including Syrah, Merlot, and Malbec are planted at lower elevations along the warmer Columbia River benches and basalt cliffs, where the more sheltered aspect allows fuller phenolic development. The cooler climate means reds from Ancient Lakes tend toward higher natural acidity and firm tannin structures.

  • Riesling: the signature variety, showing lime, lemon, and green apple aromatics with bright acidity and mineral notes; grown primarily at Evergreen Vineyard on the Beezley Hills and Evergreen Ridge
  • Chardonnay: second most planted variety, benefiting from the moderate temperatures that preserve freshness and structure
  • Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc: important supporting white varieties planted throughout the higher elevation sites
  • Syrah, Merlot, and Malbec: red varieties planted near the Columbia River benches at lower, warmer elevations; wines tend toward higher acidity and firm tannins

🏭Notable Producers & Vineyards

Milbrandt Vineyards is the dominant grower in the AVA; their Evergreen Vineyard, a 950-plus-acre estate planted in 1997, is the region's most celebrated site and has supplied fruit to Chateau Ste. Michelle for the acclaimed Eroica Riesling program and to Charles Smith Wines for the widely distributed Kung Fu Girl Riesling. Cave B Estate Winery, whose founders Vince and Carol Bryan also founded the nearby Gorge Amphitheatre, operates estate vineyards dating to 1980 and produces a broad range of white and red varieties from 86 estate acres. White Heron Cellars, owned by Cameron Fries whose enological training came from Switzerland, is the oldest continuously operating winery in the region. Jones of Washington, Milbrandt Vineyards, Errant Cellars, Beaumont Cellars, and Ryan Patrick are among other active AVA producers.

  • Milbrandt Vineyards' Evergreen Vineyard (planted 1997) represents approximately 60% of AVA planted acreage and supplies fruit for Chateau Ste. Michelle's Eroica and Charles Smith's Kung Fu Girl Riesling
  • Cave B Estate Winery: estate vineyards established 1980, winery opened 2000; 86 estate acres growing over 20 varieties including Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah, and Barbera
  • White Heron Cellars: oldest continuously operating winery in the AVA, founded by Cameron Fries, whose Swiss enological training shaped his cool-climate focus
  • Jones of Washington, Errant Cellars, and Beaumont Cellars are among the wineries operating within the AVA boundaries near Quincy

⚖️Wine Laws & Soils

Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley AVA operates under TTB regulations, requiring that at least 85% of the grapes in any wine labeled with the designation originate within the 162,762-acre boundary. As a sub-AVA nested entirely within Columbia Valley, wines may carry any of these designations, with the Ancient Lakes label signaling a distinctly cooler, white-wine-focused terroir. The AVA's soils are among the most diverse in Washington, with 65 soil types identified. Fine sand, silt, and sandy loam predominate across most of the Quincy Basin floor, while caliche deposits rich in calcium carbonate are found at prominent sites such as Evergreen Vineyard. Quincy loam and windblown loess overlie older basalt bedrock, with very low organic matter and excellent drainage stressing vines toward concentrated, high-acid fruit.

  • 85% fruit-of-origin requirement for the Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley designation under TTB rules
  • Sub-AVA of Columbia Valley; wine may be labeled Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley, Columbia Valley, or Washington State
  • 65 soil types identified across the AVA; fine sand, silt, and sandy loam dominate, with caliche deposits at key higher-elevation sites
  • Low-fertility, free-draining soils reduce vine vigor and encourage concentration of flavors and retention of natural acidity in grapes

🚗Visiting & Wine Culture

The Ancient Lakes AVA is a scenic and relatively uncrowded alternative to better-known Washington wine destinations, centered on the communities of Quincy and George in central Washington, roughly a two-hour drive from Seattle. The region offers dramatic landscapes of basalt cliffs, coulees, and the namesake lake chain, making it a genuine destination for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts as well as wine lovers. Cave B Estate Winery operates a public tasting room adjacent to the famous Gorge Amphitheatre and also offers accommodation options nearby. White Heron Cellars, Jones of Washington, Errant Cellars, and Beaumont Cellars are among other producer tasting rooms accessible in the area.

  • Located approximately 2 hours from Seattle via I-90; Quincy and George are the primary gateway communities
  • Cave B Estate Winery offers daily public tastings at its Quincy estate, adjacent to the Gorge Amphitheatre, with tasting rooms also in Woodinville
  • Ancient Lakes Trail: a popular hiking route descending coulees to the chain of glacier-formed lakes; accessible near Quincy with a seasonal gate open March through September
  • The region's dramatic basalt cliffs, coulees, and Columbia River gorge views make it an attractive destination for photography, hiking, fishing, and boating alongside wine tourism
Flavor Profile

Ancient Lakes wines are defined by their cool-climate brightness and mineral character. Rieslings lead with aromas of lime, lemon, green apple, and white peach, underpinned by a saline minerality reflecting the caliche-rich soils of sites like Evergreen Vineyard. Chardonnay from the AVA emphasizes crisp acidity and fresh stone fruit rather than the fuller, riper profile of warmer Columbia Valley sites. Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc display lively citrus and herbal aromatics with refreshing tension. Red wines from the warmer riverside benches, particularly Syrah and Merlot, tend toward red and dark fruit with firm natural acidity and structured tannins, rewarding some time in the cellar before drinking.

Food Pairings
Ancient Lakes Riesling (dry to off-dry) with Pacific Northwest oysters, Dungeness crab, or seared halibut, where the wine's citrus acidity and minerality complement the clean oceanic flavorsChardonnay with roasted chicken, grilled salmon, or fresh pasta with light cream sauce, pairing well with the variety's bright acidity and restrained fruitOff-dry Riesling with Thai green curry, Vietnamese pho, or spice-forward Asian dishes where residual sweetness balances heatPinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc with goat cheese salads, vegetable tarts, or lightly dressed shellfish exploiting the wines' herbal brightness and citrus liftAncient Lakes Syrah or Merlot with roasted duck, lamb chops, or mushroom-based dishes to complement the firm acidity and structured tannins characteristic of this cooler-climate red wine style

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