2023 Burgundy Vintage

Winter 2022–23 was mild, leading to an early budbreak in late March 2023. Temperatures fell to freezing on April 5th and 6th, bringing nascent buds perilously close to frost damage, but harm was limited across the Côte d'Or, with only some Chablis growers reporting minor losses. Spring brought warm, wet conditions that generated strong mildew pressure through May, requiring constant vigilance. Summer was warm overall without the sustained heat spikes of recent years, interspersed with regular rainfall and localised hailstorms in early July that caused limited, patchy damage. Veraison arrived in the first days of July, setting the stage for a large, well-ripened crop. The decisive event of 2023 was the September heatwave: temperatures climbed rapidly to the mid-30s°C from around September 5th and held there until a storm broke on September 11th, concentrating sugars quickly and demanding fast, often nocturnal harvesting to preserve freshness and balance.

• Mild winter triggered early budbreak in late March; frost risk on April 5–6 caused only minor, localised damage
• Mildew pressure was significant through spring but was successfully managed without the widespread losses seen in other French regions in 2023
• Summer was warm overall, with localised July hailstorms causing limited impact, and cooler nights in early August slowing ripening briefly
• September heatwave to mid-30s°C made harvest timing critical; many producers picked at night or in the early morning to protect fruit quality

Chardonnay consistently outperformed expectations across Burgundy in 2023, with the BIVB reporting Chablis AOC volumes up 19% compared to 2022. In Chablis, harvest began around September 11 and ran into early October; the abundance of juice and lower-than-usual acidity meant that producers who controlled yields and picked at the right moment made wines of real mineral intensity, while those who did not risk dilution. The Côte de Beaune whites from Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, and Chassagne-Montrachet were broadly praised for their richness and balance. In the Côte de Nuits, the picture for Pinot Noir was more heterogeneous: thin skins were widely reported, and crop loads were very high, meaning that producer decisions on green harvesting and sorting table discipline dictated quality more than terroir alone. The Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais delivered reliable, accessible wines, with the Mâconnais accounting for 34% of Burgundy's white wine volumes in 2023.

• Chablis: Harvest from around September 11; Chablis AOC volumes rose 19% versus 2022, with quality divided between disciplined producers and those who overcropped
• Côte de Beaune whites: Broadly praised for richness and balance; Chardonnay performed strongly, with earlier picking preserving more acidity
• Côte de Nuits reds: High yields and thin skins meant rigorous sorting was essential; top producers delivered wines of elegance and perfume
• Mâconnais and Côte Chalonnaise: Reliable quality at accessible prices; the Mâconnais represented 34% of all white wine volumes in Burgundy in 2023

The sheer volume of 2023 required producers to make consequential decisions at every stage. Green harvesting was near-universal, with many estates needing to return for a second pass, sometimes called a blue harvest, to remove bunches that had failed to change colour at veraison. Major négociant houses including Bouchard and Faiveley each green harvested across significant portions of their vineyards to control crop size. The September heatwave created further challenges in the cellar: fermentations were sometimes sluggish or difficult to manage under the warm conditions, and some producers found the high potassium levels in 2023 fruit led to elevated pH and reduced tartaric acidity. Several producers chose to pick at night or in the early morning to preserve freshness, and some who harvested by machine were better placed to pick quickly before temperatures peaked. Stem inclusion decisions were varied, with many choosing to destem entirely given acidity considerations.

• Green harvesting was near-universal; many producers completed two passes, including a blue harvest post-veraison to remove unripe bunches
• Heatwave fermentations were sometimes slow or difficult; careful cellar temperature control was important to retain freshness
• Elevated potassium levels contributed to higher pH and lower acidity in some wines, particularly in Chablis
• Night and early-morning picking was widespread; machine harvesters were advantaged by their ability to work quickly in cooler conditions

Tasting reports from Berry Bros. and Rudd, Decanter, and Jasper Morris MW converge on a consistent picture: 2023 Burgundies are charming, transparent, and more expressive of terroir than the opulent 2022s or the powerful 2020s. The harvest heatwave left its mark in the ripe, generous front palate of the wines, while the relatively cool, wet summer prior to September preserved a satisfying freshness. Red wines show aromatic, perfumed profiles with red and blue berry fruit, floral notes, fine tannins, and relatively low acidity compared to cooler vintages. Chardonnay excelled, producing wines of richness, good mineral definition, and early appeal, with the acid profile built primarily on tartaric rather than malic acid. Alcohol levels across both colours generally sit between 12.5% and 13.5%. Quality varies: producer decisions on yield management and harvest date mattered enormously, and wines from estates that overcropped or misjudged picking windows can show dilution or low acidity.

• Pinot Noir: Aromatic and perfumed, with red and blue berries, floral lift, soft tannins, and a generous, creamy mid-palate
• Chardonnay: Rich and approachable, with citrus and stone fruit, mineral definition, and an acid structure built on tartaric acid rather than malic
• Alcohol 12.5–13.5% across the board; wines are accessible and charming rather than structured for very long aging
• Producer selection critical: wines from disciplined, quality-focused estates are significantly better than those from high-yielding operations

Expert consensus positions 2023 as a vintage of early and medium-term pleasure rather than a vin de garde to rival 2022 or 2019. World of Fine Wine's Sarah Marsh MW cautions that higher pH and lower acidity bring aging capacity into question for some wines, especially those with modest extract. That said, the best wines from serious producers in the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune have genuine structure and should develop well through the late 2020s and into the 2030s. White Burgundies are best consumed in the near to medium term to capture their freshness. Berry Bros. and Rudd advise drinking 2023s before 2022s where both are available. Village-level and Chablis wines from yield-conscious producers offer excellent drinking now through the mid-2020s.

• Best Côte de Nuits reds: Approachable now, with structure to develop through the late 2020s and into the 2030s
• Côte de Beaune whites: Drink over the next five to eight years for optimal freshness and mineral expression
• Village-level reds and Chablis: Ready to enjoy now; drink through 2027–2028 for top examples
• Drink 2023 before 2022 where both vintages are available; 2022 demands more time and rewards patience

After the frost-ravaged 2021, which devastated yields by up to 50% in some appellations, and the generous, opulent 2022, which produced nearly 1.75 million hectolitres, 2023 arrived as the largest harvest in Burgundy's recorded history at approximately 1.9 million hectolitres. Back-to-back large harvests in 2022 and 2023 replenished cellars that had been severely depleted, with the BIVB noting that available stock at the start of the 2023–2024 campaign was up 12% above the five-year average. The context of the 2024 vintage sharpens appreciation of 2023's abundance: Burgundy's 2024 harvest is estimated to be around 25% smaller than 2023, with some Côte de Nuits red wine volumes described by producers as catastrophic and some growers producing less than 15 hl/ha. 2023 therefore represents a window of relative supply and accessibility that buyers would be wise to take advantage of before 2024 allocations arrive in 2026.

• 2021: Frost reduced yields by up to 50% in some appellations; scarce and now recognised for the quality of surviving wines
• 2022: Nearly 1.75 million hectolitres; rich, opulent, and structured, with excellent aging potential across both colours
• 2023: Approximately 1.9 million hectolitres, the largest harvest in Burgundy's recorded history; charming, accessible, and broadly enjoyable
• 2024: Estimated 25% smaller than 2023; some Côte de Nuits volumes described as catastrophic, making 2023 comparatively abundant and accessible