2009 Port & Douro Vintage

Paul Symington's harvest report, dated 25 October 2009, called it a challenging year for the Douro: the third dry year in succession, with only 285 mm of rain at Quinta do Bomfim by the end of September, 40 percent less than normal. It was not like 2005, when drought and heat combined, because June gave 39.6 mm of rain, enough for the vines to face the summer with enough leaf growth for bunch shade. The season started early at Quinta da Roeda, with budburst on 8 March, and low fertility across all grape varieties, particularly Tinta Roriz and Touriga Francesa, led to early veraison. The grapes ripened gradually in a relatively cool July, and it stayed quite cool until the classic Douro heat came on 12 August, reaching 40 C on the 13th and staying in the high 30s for several days. Rain was almost completely absent from July to September and temperatures were very high from early August, which advanced phenolic ripening, particularly in more exposed areas in the Upper Douro. Low-lying, south-facing vineyards in the Douro Superior above the Valeira dam suffered, and it was hot again on 9 and 10 September, nearly touching 40 C, before a gradual cooling. Picking at Symington's Quinta do Vesuvio, Telhada, Vale Coelho and Senhora de Ribeira began on 7 September, at Malvedos on the 14th, Bomfim on the 17th and Cavadinha on the 20th, about a week earlier than average, with no sign of rot in the berries. Picking at Fladgate quintas began between 7 and 14 September and finished on 2 October. On the night of 6 to 7 October, just as the last day's picking was due to start, over 60 mm of rain fell at Cavadinha in a couple of hours. Yields in Symington's vineyards were down by about a third, due to low rainfall and rigorous selection on the sorting tables. The reduction across the whole region was expected to be smaller because the Baixo Corgo is considerably wetter, with richer soils.

The two major Port shippers took very different views of 2009. Adrian Bridge of The Fladgate Partnership declared, as tradition dictates on St George's Day, a Vintage Port from Taylor's, Croft and Fonseca, TFP's fourth declaration in a decade after 2000, 2003 and 2007, one more than is usual, and a small quantity of Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha 2009 was also released. Head winemaker David Guimaraens justified the declaration this way: "We haven't seen colour intensity and tannic grip like this in over 20 years." The Symington family did not declare 2009 for Graham's, Dow's or Cockburn's. It was bottling single-quinta Ports from Graham's Quinta dos Malvedos, Dow's Quinta do Bomfim, Dow's Senhora de Ribeira and Quinta do Vesuvio, plus 500 cases of Warre's 2009 as a special bottling to commemorate 200 years since the Anglo-Portuguese army under the Duke of Wellington liberated Oporto. Niepoort declared 2009. Decanter's vintage guide called it a limited declaration, with Taylor's, Fonseca, Croft and Warre's declaring and other shippers opting for a single-quinta vintage.

• Fladgate Partnership: Taylor's, Croft and Fonseca, plus a small release of Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha
• Symington: no declaration for Graham's, Dow's or Cockburn's; single quintas from Malvedos, Bomfim, Senhora de Ribeira and Quinta do Vesuvio
• Warre's 2009: 500 cases, commemorative rather than commercial
• Niepoort declared 2009

No single assessment can characterise the whole Douro, with vineyards from 90 metres at the river's edge to 450 metres up the valley. Symington's vineyards ran from Quinta da Telhada in the far east to the Pinhao valley at nearly 500 metres. Thin-skinned Barroca in some low, south-facing locations suffered from dehydration, but Barroca at about 450 metres was really excellent. Touriga Nacional had a great year in most places, and the late-ripening Touriga Franca also performed very well. Paul Symington's son Robert, working at Roriz for his second harvest, remarked midway through the harvest: "The quality band here seems to have moved up the hill-side by some 150 metres." Taylor's 2009 is based on a blend of Ports from Quinta de Vargellas and Quinta de Terra Feita, with a small contribution from Quinta do Junco. Fonseca 2009 is drawn from Quinta do Panascal and Quinta do Cruzeiro with a small proportion from Quinta do Santo Antonio, and Croft 2009 is drawn entirely from Quinta da Roeda.

• Barroca at about 450 metres was really excellent; on low south-facing sites it dehydrated
• Touriga Nacional had a great year in most places; Touriga Franca performed very well
• Croft 2009 drawn entirely from Quinta da Roeda

Unless heat-affected, the bunches were in excellent condition and gave good concentrated colour and aromas, and the musts needed cooling on many days. Guimaraens called the quality of fruit impressive and said the wines have excellent acidity. Decanter's Port vintage guide called 2009 a year that divided opinions: a hot, dry summer to the start of picking gave grapes with huge ripeness and concentration, and the wines are dense and opulent. Decanter advises drinking 2030 to 2050 and over the long term, and says the single-quinta Vintage Ports are already good to drink. Its best wines list names Croft, Fonseca, Quinta de Ervamoira, Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha, Quinta dos Canais, Quinta Senhora da Ribeira, Taylor and Warre.

• Decanter: drink 2030 to 2050 and over the long term
• Decanter: dense, opulent wines reflecting the hot year
• Guimaraens: impressive fruit quality and excellent acidity