VENETO — Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Italy's great dried-grape red: a powerful, full-bodied dry wine born from the appassimento tradition in the Valpolicella hills north of Verona.
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG is one of Italy's most celebrated wines, crafted through appassimento, where selected grapes are dried for roughly 120 days before fermentation, concentrating sugars, flavors, and phenolics. The DOCG was decreed on 4 December 2009 and applies from the 2010 vintage, elevating Amarone from its earlier DOC status. Wines must reach a minimum of 14% ABV and age at least two years before release, with Riserva requiring four years.
- The DOCG decree was signed on 4 December 2009, with regulations taking effect from the 2010 harvest; prior to this, Amarone had its own DOC status (established in December 1990), having first been registered under a broader production framework in 1968.
- The appassimento drying process typically lasts around 120 days; Corvina grapes lose 35–45% of their weight, while Rondinella loses 27–40%, concentrating sugars, glycerol, and polyphenols.
- Grape blend rules: Corvina Veronese comprises 45–95% of the blend (with Corvinone permitted to substitute up to 50% of that share); Rondinella 5–30%; other authorized red varieties up to 25%, with no single variety exceeding 10%.
- Minimum alcohol is 14% ABV; standard Amarone must age a minimum of 2 years (calculated from 1 January of the year after harvest); Amarone Riserva requires a minimum of 4 years aging.
- The DOCG forbids vinification of appassimento grapes before 1 December of the harvest year, ensuring adequate drying time regardless of vintage conditions.
- The Valpolicella zone is formally divided into three areas: Valpolicella Classica (the historic core comprising five communes), the Valpantena sub-zone, and the broader Valpolicella DOC area extending east toward the Soave hills.
- The first completely dry Amarones to be commercially marketed were the 1953 vintages produced by Bolla and Bertani, marking the launch of modern Amarone as a deliberate wine style.
History & Heritage
Winemaking using partially dried grapes in the Valpolicella area stretches back to ancient times, with techniques the Romans described as characteristically Greek in origin. The modern concept of Amarone, however, is a relatively recent development. The term 'Amarone' is believed to have been coined by Adelino Lucchese, a cellarmaster at the cooperative winery of Negrar, around 1936, when a batch of Recioto wine fermented completely dry. The style was not commercially marketed until 1953, when both Bolla and Bertani released the first deliberate dry Amarones. DOC status followed in December 1990, and the wine was elevated to DOCG by decree on 4 December 2009, with the new rules applying from the 2010 harvest onward.
- The name 'Amarone', meaning 'the Great Bitter', distinguished the fully dry wine from the sweeter Recioto della Valpolicella produced from the same grapes and method.
- The 1953 vintages from Bolla and Bertani were the first commercially marketed dry Amarones, establishing the style that producers would refine over subsequent decades.
- Pioneers like Masi, Bertani, and Giuseppe Quintarelli, who took over his family's Negrar estate in the 1950s, built the appellation's international reputation through the latter half of the 20th century.
- DOCG promotion in 2009 introduced tighter controls including registered vineyard traceability, stricter appassimento documentation, and regulated minimum aging requirements.
Geography & Climate
Valpolicella occupies a series of valleys in the province of Verona, Veneto, running roughly 25 km west to east and 12 km north to south in the foothills of the Lessini Mountains. Elevations range from around 60 meters on the valley floors to over 600 meters in the higher hillside sites. The region has a mild to cool continental climate significantly moderated by the proximity of Lake Garda to the west and, more distantly, the Adriatic Sea to the southeast. This combination allows grapes to ripen fully while preserving the acidity that is critical to Amarone's balance. Soils are varied: calcareous limestone-rich clays dominate the hillside Classico zone, while the eastern valleys contain more alluvial and volcanic tuff material.
- The Classica zone is the historic heart of Valpolicella, defined by five communes: Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella, San Pietro in Cariano, and the valleys of Fumane, Marano, and Negrar.
- Valpantena is a recognized sub-zone to the east of Classica, known for combining ripe fruit with freshness; the broader DOC area extends further east toward the valleys of Illasi, Tramigna, and Mezzane.
- Calcareous, limestone-rich soils in the hillside sites contribute to the tannin development and structural precision associated with the finest Classica Amarones.
- Lake Garda's thermal influence moderates temperature extremes, while north-facing cool air descending from the Alps into the Lessini foothills creates the growing-season balance needed for appassimento-quality fruit.
Key Grapes & Wine Styles
Corvina Veronese is the soul of Amarone, permitted at 45–95% of the blend. Corvinone, a closely related variety, may substitute for up to 50% of Corvina's share within that range. Rondinella contributes 5–30%, adding color, body, and aromatic complexity. Up to 25% of other authorized red varieties may be included, with no single variety exceeding 10%. Molinara, once mandatory, was removed from the required blend in 2003, though some producers still use it. After drying, fermentation proceeds at low temperatures and can last 30–50 days; the wine must be technically dry. The pomace left after pressing is reused to produce Valpolicella Ripasso, a distinct DOC wine created by re-fermenting fresh Valpolicella on Amarone skins.
- Corvina is prized for its thick skin, which withstands the appassimento process well, and for its bright cherry and red-fruit character that persists through drying and long oak aging.
- Standard Amarone must age a minimum of 2 years (from 1 January of the year after harvest); Amarone Riserva requires a minimum of 4 years, often delivered in large Slavonian oak casks or a combination of casks and barriques.
- Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG, the sweet sibling wine, is made from identical grapes and by the same appassimento method but with fermentation halted early to retain substantial residual sugar.
- The DOCG disciplinare prohibits vinification of dried grapes before 1 December of the harvest year, ensuring a minimum drying window is always respected.
Notable Producers
Giuseppe Quintarelli, whose family founded their Negrar estate in 1924 and who ran it from the 1950s until his death in 2012, is widely regarded as the defining figure of modern Amarone. His approach, extended appassimento of up to six months and aging in large Slavonian oak for 7–10 years, set a benchmark for longevity and complexity. The estate is now run by his daughter Fiorenza and her family. Romano Dal Forno, who made his first vintage in 1983 after being inspired by Quintarelli, built his estate in Val d'Illasi using a more interventionist approach with new French oak, producing ultra-concentrated and internationally acclaimed wines. Masi, Bertani, Allegrini, and Tedeschi represent the region's established mid-to-large producers with decades of consistent track records, while estates such as Speri, Le Ragose, and Musella are associated with a more balanced, freshness-oriented style.
- The Quintarelli estate, located in Negrar at around 500 meters elevation across approximately 12 hectares, produces a total of roughly 60,000 bottles annually across its entire range.
- Dal Forno Romano, founded in 1983 and now run by Romano's son Marco, is based in Val d'Illasi in the eastern Valpolicella DOC area, with vineyards planted to Corvina, Corvinone, Croatina, Oseleta, and Rondinella.
- Bertani was among the two producers to first commercially market a dry Amarone with the 1953 vintage and remains a benchmark for the Valpantena style.
- Producers associated with the 'Famiglie Storiche' group, including Speri, Musella, and Terre d'Orti, pursue a more restrained, freshness-focused interpretation of Amarone.
Wine Laws & Classification
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG sits at the top of the Valpolicella quality pyramid. The DOCG disciplinare mandates a minimum 14% ABV, at least 2 years of aging from 1 January following harvest (in wooden barrels), a compulsory vintage declaration, and passage of a panel tasting before the numbered DOCG seal may be applied. Amarone Riserva requires a minimum of 4 years aging from 1 November of the harvest year. The appellation also specifies that grapes destined for Amarone cannot be vinified before 1 December, securing a minimum drying window. All production, from appassimento through to bottling, must (with narrow exceptions) take place within the delineated zone. Valpolicella DOC and Valpolicella Ripasso DOC form the base tiers, with Valpolicella Superiore DOC requiring at least 1 year of wood aging and 12% ABV.
- Every bottle of Amarone must carry a vintage date; non-vintage production is not permitted under the DOCG.
- Grapes destined for Amarone may not exceed 65% of a vineyard's permitted maximum yield, with the remainder available for Valpolicella and Ripasso production.
- The Classico designation on the label indicates fruit sourced entirely from the five historic communes of Sant'Ambrogio, San Pietro in Cariano, Fumane, Marano, and Negrar.
- Recioto della Valpolicella, using the same grapes and appassimento method but fermented to sweetness, holds its own DOCG status, awarded alongside Amarone in December 2009.
Visiting & Culture
The Valpolicella region lies just north of Verona, making it easily accessible for day trips or multi-day visits. The Classico zone villages of Negrar, Fumane, and Sant'Ambrogio are the natural starting points, offering a concentration of historic estates. The Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Valpolicella represents more than 80% of producers and provides resources for visitor orientation. Verona itself, with its Roman amphitheatre and medieval old town, provides an ideal cultural and culinary base. The harvest season in September and October offers rare opportunities to observe appassimento being set up in the fruttai (drying rooms). Regional cuisine centers on hearty preparations, with risotto all'Amarone, braised meats, and aged local cheeses forming the natural table partners for these powerful wines.
- The Classico heartland villages of Negrar, Fumane, Marano, Sant'Ambrogio, and San Pietro in Cariano are home to many of the region's most historic and respected estates.
- Lake Garda, approximately 15 km to the west of the Classico zone, and the Soave DOC zone to the east offer complementary wine destinations within easy reach.
- Verona's annual Vinitaly trade fair, typically held in April, brings together producers and buyers from across Italy and the world, with Valpolicella prominently represented.
- Fruttai (drying rooms) tours during October and November give visitors a rare insight into the appassimento process, with grapes spread on bamboo racks or plastic crates to concentrate over the winter months.
Young Amarone opens with intense aromas of dried cherry, ripe plum, dark fig, and hints of chocolate, with floral notes that reflect Corvina's aromatic personality. The palate is full-bodied and warm, with alcohol typically between 14% and 16%, integrated into a rich, glycerol-inflected texture. Tannins are firm but rounded by the extended aging in wood, and the wine's preserved acidity provides a structural counterpoint to its concentration. With age (10 years and beyond), primary dried fruit gives way to tertiary complexity: tobacco, leather, coffee, dark chocolate, dried mushroom, and balsamic notes, while the texture becomes increasingly silky and the finish remarkably long.