Straw Wine / Vin de Paille / Strohwein (Grape Drying for Sweet Wine)

Straw wine, known as vin de paille in French and Strohwein in German-speaking regions, is a dessert wine made by drying harvested grapes before pressing and fermentation. The technique dates to pre-Classical antiquity, with the earliest examples likely produced in Greece before spreading into Italy, where the general term passito covers many dried-grape wine styles, and eventually into France and the Alpine regions of Austria and Switzerland. In France, the Jura region is the canonical home of vin de paille, a style made from a blend of Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard, and sometimes Trousseau, produced within the Arbois, Côtes du Jura, and L'Étoile appellations. The style bridges the gap between fortified wines and naturally sweet wines: it requires no added spirits and no botrytis fungus, concentrating sweetness purely through the controlled evaporation of water from the grape berries.

• The word paille means straw in French, referencing the traditional mats on which grapes were originally laid to dry; today only around three Jura producers still use actual straw
• Jura Vin de Paille is produced within three AOCs: Arbois, Côtes du Jura, and L'Étoile; all wines must reach at least 14% alcohol after a minimum of three years aging, with 18 months in wood
• Austrian Strohwein and Schilfwein (reed wine) are legally synonymous Prädikatswein categories, with EU protection obtained in 1999 and Burgenland as the leading region
• Hermitage in the northern Rhône produces small quantities of Vin de Paille from Marsanne and Roussanne, with both Chapoutier and Jean-Louis Chave as benchmark producers

Harvest takes place in autumn, with grapes selected for health and good acidity rather than extreme overripeness, since they will concentrate further during drying. In Jura, the bunches are placed well separated into small wooden or plastic boxes in well-ventilated rooms, or occasionally hung from rafters; only a small number of producers retain the use of actual straw mats. In Austria, grapes must be dried on mats of straw or reed, or hung, for a minimum of three months, reaching at least 25 degrees KMW before pressing. As water evaporates over months, sugars, acids, and aroma compounds concentrate dramatically. Pressing produces a dense, syrupy must that ferments slowly under high osmotic pressure. In Jura, the appellation requires a minimum of 14% finished alcohol and at least three years of aging, with 18 months in wood. The economics are brutal: 100 kg of dried grapes yields approximately 20 litres of finished wine. All Jura Vin de Paille is sold in half-bottles of 37.5 cl.

• Drying period: several months in well-ventilated indoor spaces; Austrian regulations mandate a minimum of three months on straw or reed mats with a pre-press minimum of 25 degrees KMW
• Fermentation is slow due to high osmotic pressure; Jean-Louis Chave's Hermitage Vin de Paille can take up to 24 months to complete fermentation, followed by approximately 48 months of oak aging
• Must weights in Hermitage reach a minimum of 360 g/L; Jura appellation rules set a minimum finished alcohol of 14%, with residual sugar levels typically ranging from 60 to 130 g/L
• All Jura Vin de Paille must be bottled in half-bottles (37.5 cl), in a variety of bottle shapes depending on the producer

Straw wines are typically sweet to very sweet white wines, comparable in density and sweetness to Sauternes but produced without botrytis involvement, which preserves a cleaner, more directly fruity aromatic profile. The nose of a young Jura Vin de Paille offers raisins, caramel, honey, candied quince, pear, and fig, with spiced-bread and nutty notes from oxidative aging. The palate is rich and viscous, with the high alcohol and residual sugar balanced by firm, crystalline acidity that is essential to aging potential. Wines from the nineteenth century have been sold at the annual Percée du Vin Jaune auction, demonstrating genuine multigenerational longevity. Hermitage Vin de Paille tends toward greater weight and tropical richness from the Marsanne grape, while Jura examples can range from medium-sweet to lusciously sweet depending on producer choices of blend and oak regime.

• Aromatics: honey, raisins, candied fruit, quince, fig, spiced bread, and subtle nuttiness if aged oxidatively; distinct from botrytized wines in their cleaner, varietal-forward fruit character
• Residual sugar in Jura ranges widely from around 60 g/L to 130 g/L; high acidity and minimum 14% alcohol provide the structural framework for long aging
• Young wines (0 to 5 years) show primary fruit and caramel freshness; mid-term evolution (5 to 20 years) brings deeper honeyed complexity, dried stone fruit, and nutty depth
• Wines from the nineteenth century appear at Jura auctions, confirming aging potential well beyond 50 years when stored properly

Jura in eastern France, situated between Burgundy and Switzerland, is the canonical heartland of vin de paille in France. The three producing AOCs are Arbois, Côtes du Jura, and L'Étoile, with production representing less than 1% of total Jura output. Austria's Burgenland is the leading region for Strohwein and its synonym Schilfwein, both protected as distinctively Austrian products since 1999; white varieties such as Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, and Muscat are commonly used, as are red varieties including Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. In the northern Rhône, Hermitage produces small quantities of Vin de Paille from Marsanne and Roussanne, with Michel Chapoutier and Jean-Louis Chave as the two benchmark producers. Italy's South Tyrol (Alto Adige/Südtirol) may also label certain dried-grape wines as Strohwein under its DOC, reflecting the Alpine tradition shared with Austria.

• Jura (France): Arbois, Côtes du Jura, and L'Étoile AOCs; less than 1% of regional production; minimum 14% alcohol and three years aging including 18 months in wood
• Burgenland (Austria): primary region for Strohwein and Schilfwein; minimum three months drying; minimum 25 degrees KMW before pressing; EU protection since 1999
• Hermitage (northern Rhône): Marsanne and Roussanne; Michel Chapoutier (since 1990) and Jean-Louis Chave (exceptional vintages only, approximately 1,000 half-bottles) are landmark producers
• South Tyrol (Alto Adige, Italy): may label certain passito-style wines as Strohwein under the DOC; reflects the shared Alpine winemaking heritage

In Jura, Domaine Bénédicte et Stéphane Tissot (formerly known as Domaine André et Mireille Tissot, founded 1962, with Stéphane taking over in 1990) is widely regarded as one of the finest estates in the region. The domaine's 50 hectares are certified biodynamic and produce the full range of Jura styles including Vin de Paille. Domaine Berthet-Bondet, producing Côtes du Jura Vin de Paille from a blend of Chardonnay, Savagnin, and Poulsard, is another respected name. In Hermitage, Michel Chapoutier has revived the vin de paille tradition since 1990, producing it from Marsanne with must weights of at least 360 g/L. Jean-Louis Chave makes Vin de Paille only in exceptional vintages, with production sometimes fewer than 1,000 half-bottles; fermentation alone can last up to 24 months.

• Bénédicte et Stéphane Tissot (Jura): flagship estate; 50 biodynamic hectares; produces Arbois Vin de Paille 'Spirale'; estate founded 1962 by André and Mireille Tissot, taken over by Stéphane in 1990
• Domaine Berthet-Bondet (Jura): produces Côtes du Jura Vin de Paille from Chardonnay, Savagnin, and Poulsard; 15 hectares including 4.5 ha of Savagnin in Château-Chalon
• M. Chapoutier Hermitage Vin de Paille: produced since 1990; Marsanne from the hill of Hermitage; minimum must weight 360 g/L; reviver of a historic Rhône tradition
• Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Vin de Paille: produced in exceptional vintages only; 90% Marsanne, 10% Roussanne; fermentation up to 24 months; aging approximately 48 months in oak; rarely more than 1,000 half-bottles released

The core challenge of straw wine production is preventing fungal spoilage during months of grape desiccation. Historically producers relied on well-ventilated attics and fortunate autumn weather; today most use temperature and humidity-controlled rooms with good airflow to manage the process. In Jura, actual straw mats have been largely abandoned in favor of small wooden or plastic boxes that keep bunches separated and allow even air circulation. Research into ozone application as an alternative to chemical preservatives during drying has shown promise in preventing Botrytis cinerea and acetic acid bacteria without negatively affecting the aromatic profile of the dried grapes. Fermentation presents its own challenges: high osmotic pressure from the concentrated must can inhibit yeast activity, leading to very slow fermentations that may last many months. The resulting economics demand premium pricing, as 100 kg of dried fruit yields only around 20 litres of wine.

• Fungal pressure management: modern producers use ventilated, climate-controlled rooms rather than open attics; actual straw mats survive with only around three Jura producers
• Slow fermentation: the extreme sugar concentration inhibits yeast; Chave's Hermitage Vin de Paille can take up to 24 months to complete fermentation at high must weights
• Research applications: ozone treatment during the drying period has been shown to control Botrytis and acetic acid bacteria without altering the aromatic compounds essential to wine quality
• Economics: with yields of approximately 20 litres per 100 kg of dried grapes and minimum three years of aging before release, viable production requires strictly premium pricing