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Sangiovese Grosso

Sangiovese Grosso is a traditional biotype grouping within the broader Sangiovese family, first described by ampelographer Girolamo Molon in 1906. It includes celebrated local clones such as Brunello in Montalcino and Prugnolo Gentile in Montepulciano. Though modern genetic research has shown the Grosso and Piccolo classification to be an oversimplification, it remains a useful lens for understanding the structural, age-worthy wines produced under these names.

Key Facts
  • Ampelographer Girolamo Molon first formally divided Sangiovese into Grosso and Piccolo families in 1906, placing Brunello and Prugnolo Gentile within the Grosso group
  • Modern genetic research has shown the Grosso and Piccolo classification to be overly simplistic, with current thinking recognising a far larger number of distinct clones across Tuscany
  • Brunello di Montalcino DOCG requires 100% Sangiovese, known locally as Brunello, and cannot be released before January 1 of the fifth year after harvest, with a minimum of two years in oak and four months in bottle
  • Brunello di Montalcino Riserva requires a minimum of five years total aging, including two years in oak and six months in bottle, released no earlier than January 1 of the sixth year after harvest
  • Brunello di Montalcino received DOC status in 1968 and became the first Italian wine to receive DOCG designation in 1980
  • Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG requires a minimum of 70% Sangiovese, known locally as Prugnolo Gentile, with a minimum of 24 months total aging including at least 12 months in oak
  • The Biondi-Santi family at Tenuta Greppo is credited with pioneering Brunello di Montalcino, with Clemente Santi producing a select varietal Sangiovese as early as 1865 and his grandson Ferruccio releasing the first wine labelled Brunello in 1888

🔬Ampelographic Classification and Modern Understanding

The term Sangiovese Grosso originates with Girolamo Molon's 1906 ampelographic work, in which he broadly divided Sangiovese into two families: Grosso and Piccolo. The Grosso group, characterised by larger berries, was associated with superior wine quality and includes notable clones such as Brunello in Montalcino, Prugnolo Gentile in Montepulciano, and Sangiovese di Lamole in parts of Chianti Classico. Contemporary genetic research, however, has demonstrated that this binary classification is too simplistic, and that Sangiovese encompasses a far larger and more complex population of clones and biotypes.

  • Molon's 1906 classification placed Brunello, Prugnolo Gentile, and Sangiovese di Lamole within the Grosso family, and associated them with higher quality wine production
  • Modern ampelographers, including authorities cited by Jancis Robinson and Jose Vouillamoz, consider the Grosso and Piccolo division an oversimplification unsupported by genetic evidence
  • Sangiovese has more registered clones in the Italian National Registry than any other variety, reflecting extraordinary genetic diversity across its growing regions
  • The BBS11 clone, developed by the Biondi-Santi estate from mass selections begun in the 19th century, is one of the most celebrated registered clones and is listed on the EU Register of Recommended Vines

🌱Growing Conditions and Terroir

Montalcino, the heartland of Brunello production, has one of the warmest and driest climates in Tuscany, receiving an average annual rainfall of around 700 mm compared to roughly 900 mm in the Chianti region. Vineyards are planted at altitudes ranging from approximately 149 m to 500 m above sea level on varied soils that include limestone, clay, schist, volcanic material, and a crumbly marl known as galestro. Monte Amiata, the highest peak in southern Tuscany, provides a sheltering influence from the southeast and moderates the region's climate.

  • Montalcino is the most arid Tuscan DOCG, and its warm, dry conditions promote phenolic maturity in Sangiovese Grosso clones
  • North-facing slopes produce slower-ripening, more aromatic wines, while south and west-facing exposures deliver greater power and complexity
  • Soils within the DOCG range from limestone and clay to galestro and volcanic material, contributing to the broad diversity of Brunello styles
  • The Brunello di Montalcino DOCG covers approximately 1,200 hectares of planted vineyard within the wider 24,000-hectare municipality of Montalcino

🍇Winemaking and Aging Potential

Wines made from Sangiovese Grosso clones such as Brunello and Prugnolo Gentile are noted for their firm tannin structure, naturally high acidity, and capacity for extended aging. In Montalcino, two broad stylistic approaches have emerged: the traditional method, using large, neutral Slavonian oak botti that encourage slow tertiary development with minimal wood influence, and a more modern approach using smaller French oak barrels for earlier accessibility. Both styles must meet the DOCG minimum of two years in oak for Brunello, though many producers far exceed this.

  • Brunello di Montalcino regulations require a minimum of two years aging in oak of any size, a rule in place since 1998 when the previous requirement of 36 months was reduced to 24 months
  • Traditional producers favour large Slavonian oak botti of several thousand litres, imparting minimal oak character and preserving the wine's primary fruit and terroir expression
  • The naturally high acidity of Sangiovese Grosso clones is considered a key driver of longevity, with well-made Brunello capable of developing over 20 to 30 or more years
  • The minimum alcohol content for Brunello di Montalcino DOCG is 12.5%, though wines frequently achieve 13.5% or above in warmer vintages

🏆Brunello di Montalcino: The Benchmark Expression

Brunello di Montalcino is inextricably linked to the Sangiovese Grosso biotype, through both regulation and tradition. The DOCG requires that Brunello be produced from 100% Sangiovese, referred to locally as Brunello. The appellation received DOC status in 1968 and became the first Italian wine to receive DOCG designation in 1980. The modern era of Brunello began with Clemente Santi's viticultural selections in the mid-19th century and was advanced by his grandson Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, who released the first wine labelled Brunello in 1888.

  • Brunello di Montalcino received DOC status in 1968 and DOCG status in 1980, making it the first Italian DOCG appellation
  • The normale release requires a minimum of four years total aging from harvest, including two years in oak and four months in bottle, and cannot be sold before January 1 of the fifth year after harvest
  • The Riserva requires a minimum of five years total aging, including two years in oak and six months in bottle, released no earlier than January 1 of the sixth year after harvest
  • Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, working from selections begun by his grandfather Clemente Santi, produced the first commercial Brunello in 1888 and was posthumously named the inventor of Brunello by an Italian interministerial committee in 1932

🍷Flavor Profile and Sensory Characteristics

Wines from Sangiovese Grosso clones display a distinctive sensory profile shaped by naturally elevated acidity, firm tannins, and the warm Tuscan terroir in which they thrive. Young Brunello is characterised by intense ruby colour tending toward garnet, with primary aromas of dark cherry, plum, violet, and dried herbs. With age, these primary notes evolve toward complex secondary and tertiary characters including leather, earth, tobacco, and dried fruit, while firm tannins gradually integrate and acidity remains the structural backbone.

  • Primary aromatics in youth typically include dark cherry, plum, violet, and aromatic herbs, with spice and leather emerging in riper examples
  • Firm, well-structured tannins and notable acidity define the palate in youth, making most Brunello di Montalcino wines best suited to cellaring rather than immediate consumption
  • Aged examples develop tertiary notes of leather, dried fig, hazelnuts, tobacco, and forest floor, while retaining freshness due to the variety's naturally high acidity
  • The DOCG specifies a minimum dry extract of 26 g/l for Brunello, underscoring the structural concentration required by regulation

🔄Other Regional Expressions of Sangiovese Grosso

While Brunello di Montalcino is the most celebrated expression of the Sangiovese Grosso biotype, related clones appear in other prestigious Tuscan appellations. In Montepulciano, the Prugnolo Gentile clone, also classified within the Grosso group, forms the backbone of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG. This appellation was among the first wines to receive DOCG status in 1980 and shares many structural similarities with Brunello, though it is typically more approachable in earlier years.

  • Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG requires a minimum of 70% Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) and a minimum of 24 months total aging, with at least 12 months in oak
  • Morellino di Scansano DOCG, in the Maremma coastal zone of Tuscany, uses a darker-skinned Sangiovese biotype locally called Morellino and requires at least 85% of the variety
  • Sangiovese is also found on the French island of Corsica under the name Nielluccio, where it is considered a major red variety
  • Rosso di Montalcino DOC, produced from the same 100% Sangiovese requirement as Brunello but with far less stringent aging rules, may be released as early as September 1 of the year following harvest
Flavor Profile

Dark cherry, plum, violet, dried herbs, leather, tobacco, earth. Firm tannins and notably high acidity forming the structural backbone, with full body and warming alcohol. Aged examples reveal dried fig, hazelnuts, forest floor, and complex spice while acidity keeps wines fresh over decades.

Food Pairings
Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Tuscan grilled T-bone steak)Slow-braised wild boar with red wine and herbsAged Pienza pecorino and cured meatsMushroom and truffle-based risotto and pastaGame birds such as pheasant and guinea fowlHearty Tuscan braised meats and roasts

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