Qvevri Fermentation

A qvevri (also spelled kvevri, and called ch'uri in western Georgia) is a large, egg-shaped clay vessel with a narrow, pointed base and a wide mouth at the top. The name itself derives from the Georgian prefix 'kve,' meaning 'beneath' or 'under,' reflecting the defining practice of burying the vessel in the ground up to its rim. Unlike Greek and Roman amphorae, which were designed for transport and had handles, the qvevri is a permanent, fixed fermentation and storage vessel. Qvevri are hand-built using a traditional coil method from locally sourced clay, then fired in a kiln. The clay used contains limestone along with trace amounts of minerals, and the quality of both clay and water is considered critical to the finished vessel's character. After firing, the inside is coated with pure beeswax while still warm. This beeswax coating partially fills the vessel's pores without sealing them completely, creating waterproofing and natural antiseptic conditions, while still permitting a trace of micro-oxygenation during the wine's long maturation. A single 2,000-liter qvevri takes an average of three months to produce, with firing alone lasting seven to eight days. Traditional qvevri-making villages include Vardisubani in Kakheti and Shrosha in Imereti.

• Egg-shape creates natural convection currents during fermentation, encouraging extraction of flavor and phenolic compounds.
• Beeswax interior lining provides waterproofing and sterilization without fully sealing the clay's pores.
• Built by hand using the coil method from locally sourced clay; no glaze is applied to the exterior.
• After each vintage, the empty qvevri is washed, sterilized with lime, and re-coated with beeswax before the next use.

The qvevri winemaking process begins at harvest in early autumn. The qvevri is first thoroughly cleaned, often with a mixture of water, crushed stones, and grapevine ash to remove any residues from previous fermentations. Crushed grapes, together with their juice, skins, stalks, and seeds (collectively called chacha in Georgian), are transferred into the vessel. Winemakers leave roughly 15 to 20 percent of the vessel's volume empty to allow for the vigorous activity of primary and secondary fermentation. No commercial yeast is added; instead, wild yeasts naturally present on the grape skins trigger fermentation after approximately two to three days. During active fermentation, the cap of grape solids must be punched down or stirred four to five times daily to ensure adequate oxygen for the yeast and to encourage phenolic extraction. Once alcoholic fermentation is complete and malolactic fermentation has occurred naturally, the qvevri is sealed with a stone or wooden lid and an airtight layer of clay or beeswax. It is then left undisturbed underground, where the earth maintains a steady temperature of 13 to 15 degrees Celsius. The wine macerates on its solids for three to six months (shorter for reds), after which the clear wine is racked off to a clean qvevri for further aging or transferred to bottles. The spent chacha is traditionally distilled into Georgian brandy, also called chacha.

• Wild yeast fermentation begins spontaneously two to three days after filling, with no inoculation required.
• The cap must be punched down four to five times daily during active fermentation to promote extraction and yeast health.
• After sealing, the qvevri's egg-shape allows lees, seeds, and skins to settle in layered fractions at the pointed base, enabling clean racking.
• White wines may macerate on skins for three to six months, producing the amber color and tannic structure characteristic of Georgian orange wine.

Traditional Georgian qvevri wine is not a single uniform style. The most significant distinction lies between the Kakhetian method of eastern Georgia and the Imeretian method of the west. In Kakheti, which produces approximately 75 percent of all Georgian wine, the full chacha (100 percent of skins, seeds, and stems) is added to the qvevri and remains in contact with the wine throughout both fermentation and an extended maceration of several months. This extended contact produces the famous amber, or orange, wines of Kakheti: deeply colored, rich in tannins, and naturally stable without chemical preservatives. The Imeretian method is more moderate, using only a fraction of the chacha (roughly one-tenth of the pomace) and no stems, resulting in wines with less tannic grip, lighter color, and a style closer to European norms while retaining the unmistakable character of qvevri aging. The traditional white wine of Kartli in central Georgia takes an intermediate position, adding approximately one-third of the chacha with stems. In western Georgia, qvevri in some areas are stored hermetically sealed above ground rather than buried, a further regional variation driven by climate and custom.

• Kakhetian method: 100% chacha (skins, seeds, stems) used; produces deeply tannic, amber-colored white wines with exceptional stability.
• Imeretian method: roughly one-tenth of skins used, no stems; yields lighter-bodied, less tannic white wines closer to European styles.
• Kartli (central Georgia) uses approximately one-third of the chacha with stems, occupying an intermediate position between the two major styles.
• Kakheti accounts for approximately 75 percent of all Georgian wine production and is the heartland of the amber wine tradition.

The qvevri's design and the extended skin-contact maceration combine to produce wines with a distinctive sensory fingerprint unlike any other winemaking tradition. White grapes fermented with their skins, seeds, and stems extract tannins and phenolic compounds that would normally be absent in conventionally made white wine. These tannins limit protein content and prevent turbidity, making qvevri wines naturally stable without the need for fining, filtration, or chemical preservatives. The beeswax lining provides a neutral, hygienic surface with trace micro-oxygenation, contributing to a slow, controlled oxidative development of flavors. The egg-shape of the vessel promotes natural convection during fermentation, encouraging even extraction without mechanical intervention. The result in white varieties like Rkatsiteli is a wine with a golden to deep amber hue, notable tannic grip on the palate, and a complex aromatic profile of dried apricot, quince, walnut, honey, orange zest, chamomile, dried herbs, and earthy mineral tones. Red qvevri wines from Saperavi show exceptional depth of color and a profile of black cherry, pomegranate, smoked bay leaf, black pepper, and licorice, with freshness preserved by the controlled underground temperature throughout aging.

• Extended skin maceration extracts tannins and phenolic compounds that stabilize white wines naturally without fining agents or sulfur preservatives.
• Egg-shape generates convective currents during fermentation, promoting phenolic extraction and even lees contact without mechanical stirring.
• Underground burial at 13 to 15 degrees Celsius creates slow, gentle fermentation and controlled oxidative aging via the beeswax-lined clay walls.
• Amber wines show characteristic flavors of dried apricot, quince, walnut, honey, and dried herbs, with a textured, tannic palate weight bridging white and red wine styles.

During the Soviet era (1921 to 1991), state control of wine production led to a shift toward high-volume industrial wines, and much of Georgia's traditional qvevri winemaking expertise was lost. Since Georgian independence in 1991, the wine industry has entered a period of renewal, and qvevri fermentation has undergone a significant revival. The first major figure to bring qvevri winemaking to international attention outside Georgia was Italian winemaker Josko Gravner of Collio, who visited Georgia in 2000 and ordered his first qvevri, producing his inaugural qvevri vintage in 2001. His work sparked widespread fascination with amber wines and skin-contact techniques in Italy, Slovenia, Austria, and beyond. In 2013, UNESCO's inscription of the ancient Georgian qvevri wine-making method on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list accelerated global interest further. Today, qvevri winemaking has spread to producers in Italy, Slovenia, Austria, the United States, and other countries, where winemakers use the vessels with local grape varieties including Ribolla Gialla, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Georgia itself continues to produce qvevri wines predominantly in the natural wine segment, and exports of qvevri wines to traditional wine countries, including France and Italy, have grown in recent years.

• Josko Gravner of Collio, Italy, pioneered qvevri use outside Georgia after visiting in 2000 and producing his first qvevri vintage in 2001.
• UNESCO inscribed the Ancient Georgian Traditional Qvevri Wine-Making Method on its Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list in 2013.
• Qvevri winemaking now extends to Italy, Slovenia, Austria, the United States, and other countries, where producers use them with local varieties.
• The traditional knowledge of qvevri making and winemaking is passed down through families and communities; children learn by observing elders tend vines, press grapes, and fire vessels.

The marani, Georgia's traditional wine cellar, is the physical and cultural center of qvevri winemaking. The marani can take many forms, from a standalone building or cave carved into a cliff to the main floor of a family home. Inside, qvevri are planted permanently in the ground with only the rim visible above floor level. Because the vessels are immovable, cleaning is performed by a winemaker or cellar hand who physically climbs down into the vessel using a ladder and scrubs the interior thoroughly with brushes, often made from plant material such as St. John's Wort, ensuring sterility before refilling. After cleaning, the vessel is sterilized with lime and re-coated with beeswax. During the winemaking cycle, sealing is critical: producers apply a clay or silicone layer around the mouth of the qvevri and press a glass disk or stone lid into place. The qvevri is traditionally not opened until spring, when the wine has completed its aging cycle. This ceremonial opening in May is a significant event in the Georgian winemaking calendar, bringing together producers, families, and guests to celebrate the new wine. Maintaining the integrity of the seal throughout aging is essential, as heavy oxygen exposure during the final stages of maturation can be damaging to wine quality.

• The marani (wine cellar) is the heart of Georgian winemaking; qvevri are permanently buried with only the rim above floor level.
• Cleaning requires a person to physically descend into the vessel; sterilization with lime and re-coating with beeswax follows each vintage.
• Sealing with a stone or glass lid and clay or silicone around the mouth creates the reductive environment essential to qvevri aging.
• The ceremonial opening of qvevri in spring is a major cultural and communal celebration in Georgian winemaking communities.