Prošek — Croatian Dessert Wine

Prošek is a traditional sweet dessert wine from the southern Dalmatian coast of Croatia, produced using the passito method, in which harvested grapes are laid out to dry on straw mats in well-ventilated spaces for several weeks. This drying process concentrates sugars and flavors naturally, yielding a rich, sweet must that is then fermented without the addition of grape spirit. The wine's roots in Dalmatia are well documented: the Croatian Renaissance poet Petar Hektorović mentioned Prošek in his 1556 work 'Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje' (On Fishing and Fishermen's Tales), listing it among provisions for a fishing voyage. The Italian naturalist Alberto Fortis also encountered the wine in 1774, describing it in 'Viaggio in Dalmazia' as worthy of any banquet, though he mistakenly referred to it as 'Prosecco vecchio'. Croatia's tradition of making Prošek is passed down through families, and it remains deeply embedded in Dalmatian culture.

• Production method: passito (straw wine) technique — grapes dried on mats to concentrate sugars naturally, no fortification in traditional production
• Primary grape varieties: Bogdanuša, Maraština, and Vugava (native white varieties), with Plavac Mali added in premium red or blended versions
• Historical record: first written mention dates to 1556 in Petar Hektorović's celebrated poem; Alberto Fortis praised it in 1774 as 'exquisite'

The modern chapter of the Prošek story began when Croatia joined the EU in 2013 and Italy objected to the use of the name Prošek, arguing it was too similar to Prosecco's PDO. Croatia was effectively blocked from using the name across the EU at that time. A second attempt followed: on 22 September 2021, the European Commission published Croatia's application for recognition of 'Prosek' as a traditional term in the EU Official Journal, triggering a new formal opposition period. Italy and its Prosecco producers filed strong objections, warning of consumer confusion in international markets. Italy's agriculture minister noted concerns that registering Prošek could set a precedent opening the door to other Italian-sounding product names. Croatia has argued that Prošek is a centuries-old tradition that predates Prosecco's EU protections, and that the two products are entirely distinct in style, grape varieties, and occasion of use. As of early 2026, the European Commission has not issued a final ruling.

• 2013: Croatia's first PDO application for Prošek was denied following Italian objections at the time of EU accession
• 22 September 2021: European Commission published Croatia's renewed application for 'Prosek' as a traditional term, opening a formal opposition window
• Italy's central argument: phonetic and visual similarity between 'Prosek' and 'Prosecco' could mislead consumers, undermining the EU's geographical designation system
• Croatia's argument: Prošek is a dry-grape sweet wine with no shared grapes, method, or style with Prosecco, and the tradition predates Prosecco's EU protections

Traditional Prošek production follows the passito method, one of the Mediterranean world's oldest winemaking techniques. After harvest, grapes are carefully selected and laid on straw mats or hung in well-ventilated spaces, often attics, to desiccate for weeks or even months. This slow drying concentrates sugars, acids, and aromatic compounds dramatically. The dehydrated grapes are then pressed and fermented slowly. No fortification with grape spirit is used in authentic traditional production. The resulting wine must reach at least 15% ABV to be certified as a true dessert wine. Because so much fruit is required — approximately seven times the grapes needed for a standard bottle of table wine — quality Prošek is inherently expensive and produced in very small quantities. Aging adds complexity, developing honey, caramel, and dried fruit character over time.

• Drying duration: grapes dry on straw mats for several weeks to months, concentrating sugars and aromatics without added spirit
• Alcohol threshold: minimum 15% ABV required for certification as a true Prošek dessert wine
• Yield: roughly seven times more grapes are needed per bottle compared to a standard table wine, explaining premium pricing
• Color: can be amber-gold (white grape base) or deeper ruby-amber when Plavac Mali is included in the blend

Traditional Prošek is made by a small number of family-owned artisan wineries scattered across Dalmatia. Vina Tomić on the island of Hvar produces the widely respected Prošek Hektorović, made from indigenous white varieties including Bogdanuša, Maraština, yellow Muscat, and Prč, dried on straw in the traditional way and named after the Renaissance poet who first documented the wine in 1556. Korta Katarina, a Relais & Châteaux winery located in Orebić on the Pelješac Peninsula and founded by American philanthropists Lee and Penny Anderson, also produces a Prošek alongside its acclaimed Plavac Mali and Pošip wines. BIBICh winery is another noted producer, with its multi-vintage Ambra expression yielding around 5,000 bottles per year. Grgić Vina, the celebrated Pelješac winery established in 1996 by Napa Valley legend Miljenko Grgich, focuses on Plavac Mali and Pošip and is not a Prošek producer.

• Vina Tomić (Hvar): Prošek Hektorović, made from Bogdanuša, Maraština, Muscat, and Prč — a benchmark expression of the island style
• Korta Katarina (Orebić, Pelješac): founded by Lee and Penny Anderson; produces Prošek alongside Plavac Mali and Pošip
• BIBICh winery: produces its multi-vintage Ambra Prošek at around 5,000 bottles per year, representing the tiny scale of artisan production
• Total traditional production: approximately 27 registered traditional producers with an annual output of around 15,000 liters from artisan wineries

The Prošek case has become a touchstone debate in European wine law, pitting a small artisan tradition with deep cultural roots against the commercial interests of one of the world's most successful wine categories. Prosecco, produced by three consortia spanning nine Italian provinces, outputs more than 550 million bottles a year and generates annual sales exceeding $2.8 billion. Prošek, by contrast, is made by a handful of family producers in tiny volumes. The EU's geographical indication system is designed to protect both heritage and quality, but the Prošek case raises a genuine tension: should phonetic similarity alone be enough to block recognition of a centuries-old tradition from a different country, using different grapes, a different method, and targeting an entirely different consumer occasion? The outcome will have implications well beyond Croatia and Italy, potentially shaping how the EU adjudicates future naming disputes involving smaller wine regions.

• Scale contrast: Prosecco exceeds 550 million bottles annually; traditional artisan Prošek produces roughly 15,000 liters per year
• Product distinction: Prošek is a natural sweet passito wine; Prosecco is a dry or off-dry sparkling wine — no shared grapes, method, or drinking occasion
• Legal precedent: the Commission's decision to publish Croatia's application confirmed that two similar-sounding names can in principle both be protected if confusion can be avoided
• Cultural stakes: in Croatia, families traditionally keep the Prošek made in the year a child is born, to be opened on their wedding day — the wine is woven into Dalmatian identity

As of early 2026, Prošek has not received formal protected status from the EU, and no mandatory PDO labeling is yet in effect. Authentic traditional Prošek is unmistakably different from Prosecco in every sensory and technical dimension. Its color ranges from deep amber-gold (white grape versions) to rich mahogany (blends with Plavac Mali), and it is still, not sparkling. Its ABV will be at least 15%, reflecting natural sugar concentration rather than fortification. The back label of a genuine artisan Prošek will name a Dalmatian producer, often from the islands of Hvar or Brač, or from the Pelješac Peninsula. Grape varieties will be indigenous Croatian names: Bogdanuša, Maraština, Vugava, or Plavac Mali. It is served chilled at 12 to 16 degrees Celsius, traditionally alongside desserts, dried figs, or blue cheese.

• Appearance: deep amber-gold to mahogany; always still, never sparkling — a fundamental difference from Prosecco
• ABV: at least 15%, achieved through natural sugar concentration via drying, not through fortification with added spirit
• Grape varieties on the label: look for Bogdanuša, Maraština, Vugava, or Plavac Mali — all indigenous Croatian varieties absent from Prosecco production
• Serving: best chilled at 12 to 16 degrees Celsius; traditionally paired with desserts, dried figs, or aged and blue cheeses