Mavrotragano

Eighty years ago, Mavrotragano was commonly grown across Santorini and traditionally used in sweet wine production. Decades of neglect pushed the variety to the brink of extinction; by 2000 it covered less than 2% of the island's vineyards. The turnaround began in 1995 when Haridimos Hatzidakis started experimenting with dry versions at Boutari estate. The first bottled dry Mavrotragano, from the 1997 vintage, was released in 1999. In 1998, Paris Sigalas independently produced a dry version, and together their efforts reignited interest in the variety. Today, Mavrotragano is considered one of Greece's most exciting indigenous red grapes.

• Traditionally produced as a sweet wine before modern dry versions emerged
• Near extinction by 2000, with coverage falling below 2% of Santorini's vineyards
• Hatzidakis began dry wine experiments in 1995; first bottling released in 1999
• Sigalas independently produced a dry Mavrotragano in 1998, accelerating the revival

Mavrotragano grows on Santorini's volcanic soils at elevations between 330 and 400 meters, under a Mediterranean climate with a strong volcanic influence. The island's volcanic substrate provides natural resistance to phylloxera, allowing vines to remain ungrafted. This is a rare viticultural distinction shared with very few regions in the world. Yields are exceptionally low, producing 40% less fruit than varieties such as Mandilarià. The grape matures quickly, reaching harvest readiness by the end of August. Beyond Santorini, experimental plantings also exist in Tinos and Epanomi in Northern Greece.

• Grows on volcanic soil at 330 to 400 meters elevation on Santorini
• Ungrafted vines due to phylloxera resistance conferred by volcanic substrate
• Very low yields, 40% less than other Santorini red varieties
• Matures early, ready for harvest by end of August

Mavrotragano produces full-bodied dry red wines with rich tannins and substantial aging potential. The grape's small berries with thick, dark skins deliver concentrated color and structure. Fermentation typically runs for 9 days, followed by 12 months of aging in oak barrels. The resulting wines carry aromas of red and black fruits, spices, minerals, leather, tobacco, and floral notes. Aging potential runs from 5 to 8 years, and the variety's complexity is frequently compared to that of Nebbiolo. The variety falls under the Protected Geographical Indication of the Cyclades.

• Fermented for approximately 9 days, then aged 12 months in oak barrels
• Aging potential of 5 to 8 years from vintage
• Aroma profile spans red and black fruits, spices, minerals, leather, tobacco, and florals
• Covered by PGI Cyclades appellation

Mavrotragano's place on the Slow Food Foundation's Ark of Taste signals its importance as a culturally and agriculturally significant variety at risk. The Ark of Taste catalogues heritage foods and beverages facing extinction, advocating for their preservation. The revival of Mavrotragano stands as a model for indigenous grape conservation in Greece and beyond. Notable producers now working with the variety include Hatzidakis, Domaine Sigalas, Santo Wines, Estate Argyros, Gavalas Winery, Vaptistis Winery, Karamolegos, and Manalis Estate.

• Listed on the Slow Food Foundation's Ark of Taste for conservation
• Revival led by Hatzidakis and Sigalas in the late 1990s
• At least eight notable producers now bottle Mavrotragano
• Regarded as a model case for indigenous variety rescue in Greece