Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah: Gimblett Gravels Benchmark, Northern Rhône Style, Hawke's Bay Icon
Craggy Range's Le Sol Syrah has defined the potential of Gimblett Gravels since its debut 2001 vintage, delivering a distinctly elegant, pepper-driven Syrah that draws inevitable comparisons with the Northern Rhône.
Le Sol Syrah is the flagship red of Craggy Range, a family estate founded in 1998 by Terry and Mary Peabody with viticulturist Steve Smith MW, situated near Havelock North in Hawke's Bay. Sourced from a heritage Syrah clone planted in the stoniest blocks of the 100-hectare Gimblett Gravels Vineyard, Le Sol has evolved from a powerful, oak-driven style into a wine of elegant structure, black pepper spice, and saline minerality under successive chief winemakers Matt Stafford, Julian Grounds, and now Ben Tombs.
- Craggy Range was founded in 1998 by Terry and Mary Peabody in partnership with viticulturist Steve Smith MW; the estate is held in a 1,000-year family trust and can never be sold
- Le Sol has been produced from every vintage since 2001, with the sole exceptions of 2003 and 2012; it was first released from the 2001 vintage in 2003
- The wine is sourced from a heritage Syrah clone reportedly brought to New Zealand in the 1840s, planted in the stoniest blocks of Craggy Range's approximately 100-hectare Gimblett Gravels Vineyard
- Winemaking employs open-top French oak fermenters, partial whole-bunch inclusion, and around 17 months maturation in French and Austrian oak barriques and puncheons, with roughly 25 to 32 percent new oak
- The Gimblett Gravels Wine Growing District spans approximately 800 hectares, defined uniquely by a single soil type, the Omahu Gravels, deposited by the Ngaruroro River after an 1867 flood
- Craggy Range holds approximately 100 hectares of vines in Gimblett Gravels; current chief winemaker Ben Tombs, named NZ Young Winemaker of the Year in 2020, has led the team since late 2023
- Le Sol consistently earns critic scores in the 91 to 95 range across vintages; the winery was named Wine Enthusiast New World Winery of the Year in 2014
Geography and Climate: The Gimblett Gravels Advantage
The Gimblett Gravels subregion of Hawke's Bay is one of New Zealand's warmest vineyard areas, situated on the east coast of the North Island and benefiting from high sunshine hours and a sheltered, rain-shadow position. The defining characteristic is the Omahu Gravels soil, an ancient riverbed exposed after the Ngaruroro River changed course following an 1867 flood and earthquake. These free-draining greywacke gravels, which run up to 30 metres deep in places, absorb solar heat during the day and radiate it at night, allowing late-ripening red varieties like Syrah to achieve full physiological ripeness without excessive alcohol. The district is defined by soil type rather than political boundaries, making it one of the few appellations in the New World governed by terroir rather than geography.
- Soil: Omahu Gravels, a deep, free-draining alluvial greywacke river bed; nutrient-poor and heat-retaining, forcing deep vine rooting
- Climate: Hawke's Bay is among NZ's sunniest, warmest regions; Gimblett Gravels runs 2 to 3 degrees Celsius warmer than coastal areas, enabling full ripeness for Syrah and Bordeaux varieties
- District: approximately 800 hectares defined exclusively by the Omahu Gravels soil stratum; Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association formed in 2001
- Vintage variation: cooler seasons produce more restrained, spice-driven Syrah; warmer, drier years yield greater fruit density and concentration, while still retaining freshness
Le Sol: Grapes, Winemaking, and Style Evolution
Le Sol is 100 percent Syrah, sourced from the stoniest parcels within Craggy Range's Gimblett Gravels Vineyard and grown from a heritage clone reportedly brought to New Zealand in the 1840s. The wine's style has shifted significantly since its debut 2001 vintage: early releases were notably powerful and oak-forward, with alcohol levels sometimes reaching 15 percent, while the post-2012 era under Matt Stafford and subsequently Julian Grounds brought a leaner, more elegant approach with greater whole-bunch inclusion, lower alcohol, and reduced new oak. Fermentation takes place in open-top French oak vats, followed by around 17 months in French and Austrian oak barriques and puncheons, with approximately 25 to 32 percent new oak. The result is a wine that leans toward savory complexity and structural precision rather than fruit-forward opulence.
- Grape: 100% Syrah from a heritage clone; sourced from the most gravelly, free-draining blocks of the Gimblett Gravels Vineyard
- Fermentation: open-top French oak vats; partial whole-bunch inclusion in recent vintages, increasing aromatic complexity and structural lift
- Maturation: approximately 17 months in French and Austrian oak barriques and puncheons, 25 to 32 percent new; subtle, integrated oak character
- Style trajectory: from bold, high-alcohol, heavily oaked early vintages to the post-2012 era of greater elegance, lower alcohol, and Northern Rhone-like precision
Craggy Range: Winery History and Winemaking Team
Craggy Range was established in 1998 when Terry and Mary Peabody partnered with Steve Smith MW, who had identified Gimblett Gravels as a site of extraordinary potential. The winery produced its first estate-grown wines from the 2001 vintage. Smith served as the public face and viticulture director of the estate until stepping back from his management role in 2015, remaining on the board. The winemaking baton has passed through three chief winemakers: Matt Stafford, who joined in 2006 and held the chief role from 2012 to 2019; Julian Grounds, who served from 2019 to 2023 and helped the winery reach the top ranking in the 2023 Real Review; and Ben Tombs, who became chief winemaker in late 2023 after joining the team in 2021. The estate operates two wineries: the flagship Giants Winery near Te Mata Peak, and a dedicated Gimblett Gravels facility.
- Founded 1998 by Terry and Mary Peabody with Steve Smith MW; first estate wines from 2001 vintage; held in a 1,000-year family trust
- Matt Stafford: chief winemaker 2012 to 2019, credited with the stylistic shift toward elegance and terroir expression in Le Sol
- Julian Grounds: chief winemaker 2019 to 2023; previously at Giant Steps (Yarra Valley) and McHenry Hohnen (Margaret River); Dux of the 2017 Len Evans Tutorial
- Ben Tombs: chief winemaker from late 2023; experience in Burgundy, Oregon, and the Yarra Valley; NZ Young Winemaker of the Year 2020
Hawke's Bay and the Gimblett Gravels: Regional Context
Hawke's Bay is New Zealand's second-largest wine region by production, situated on the east coast of the North Island and noted for its long viticultural heritage. Some of the country's oldest operating wineries, including Mission Estate, Te Mata, and Church Road, are found here. Within Hawke's Bay, the Gimblett Gravels is the most celebrated subregion for full-bodied reds, including Syrah and Bordeaux blends. The subregion takes its name from a former landowner and the distinctive gravel soils, and its Winegrowers Association, formed in 2001, defines membership by strict soil-type criteria. Syrah represents a small but disproportionately prestigious share of New Zealand's total production and receives particular praise from the Gimblett Gravels, where its Northern Rhone-like peppery, savory character is most fully expressed.
- Hawke's Bay: NZ's second-largest wine region; recognized as a GI in 2018; strong track record with Merlot blends and Syrah
- Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association: established 2001; approximately 24 winery members; wines must contain 95 percent grapes from the defined district
- Syrah in NZ: accounts for less than 1 percent of total national production but earns a disproportionate share of critical praise and premium listings
- Regional peers for premium Syrah include Trinity Hill, Esk Valley, and Bilancia, alongside Craggy Range as the most internationally recognized Gimblett Gravels Syrah producer
Sensory Profile and Tasting Notes
Le Sol Syrah is built around savory complexity, structural precision, and a signature black-pepper spice character. On the nose, recent vintages show black raspberries, dark cherries, cracked black pepper, violets, garrigue, and a mineral, graphite-tinged undercurrent. The palate is elegantly framed, with medium to full body, fine-grained tannins, refreshing acidity, and a luscious yet disciplined mid-palate. Whole-bunch inclusion in recent vintages adds aromatic lift and textural detail. The wine is approachable on release but rewards cellaring, with older vintages developing savoury, olive tapenade, leather, and meaty complexity. The style aligns more closely with the savory, pepper-driven idiom of the Northern Rhone than with the riper, fruit-forward profile of warmer New World Syrah regions.
- Aromatics: cracked black pepper, dark cherry, black raspberry, violets, garrigue, graphite minerality; subtle whole-bunch floral lift in recent vintages
- Palate: medium to full body, fine and integrated tannins, lively acidity, luscious mid-palate; saline, peppery finish
- Maturation: gentle oak integration; barriques and puncheons keep wood influence in the background, with fruit and terroir expression in the foreground
- Evolution: young vintages are structured and primary; with 7 to 10 years, olive, tapenade, leather, and meaty tertiary notes emerge, reflecting classic cool-influenced Syrah aging
Food Pairing and Cellaring
Le Sol's structure, pepper-spice character, and savory complexity make it a natural partner for meat-forward and herb-driven dishes. Its fine tannins and lively acidity prevent it from overwhelming delicate preparations, while its depth suits richer, slow-cooked and roasted proteins. The wine is generally released two to three years after harvest and drinks well upon release, though it rewards patience. The most acclaimed vintages, such as 2013 and 2015, have shown genuine aging potential of a decade or more, with optimal drinking windows varying by vintage conditions.
Le Sol Syrah opens with an expressive, savory aromatic profile: cracked black pepper, dark cherry, black raspberry, violets, and garrigue, with a graphite and mineral underpinning that speaks directly to the stony Gimblett Gravels terroir. Whole-bunch inclusion in recent vintages adds a floral, spicy lift. The palate is medium to full bodied, with fine-grained, integrated tannins and refreshing acidity framing a luscious mid-palate of spiced dark fruit. The oak remains a structural support rather than a flavor driver. With age, primary pepper and fruit complexity gives way to savory, olive tapenade, leather, and meaty tertiary notes, reflecting the Northern Rhone-like character that has made this wine one of New Zealand's most critically admired Syrabs.