Cortese

Cortese is firmly rooted in the viticultural tradition of southeastern Piedmont. White vines in the Gavi area are referenced in a preserved document dating to 972 AD, and the grape is first named in a written record from 1659. The name Cortese derives from an Italian adjective meaning 'courteous' or 'polite,' thought to reflect the grape's refined, gentle character. For centuries Cortese supplied wines to the Genoese aristocracy, who prized fresh whites to accompany their seafood-centric cuisine. The modern era of quality Gavi began in the 1950s and 1960s, when producers like La Scolca pioneered temperature-controlled vinification in stainless steel. The appellation received DOC recognition in 1974 and was elevated to DOCG in 1998.

• White vines in the Gavi territory referenced in a document from 972 AD preserved in the State Archives of Genoa
• Cortese first named in a written record from 1659 in a Piedmontese vineyard inventory
• La Scolca, acquired by the Soldati family between 1917 and 1919, pioneered quality Gavi production and registered the 'Gavi dei Gavi' trademark in 1969
• Gavi received DOC status in 1974 and was elevated to DOCG in 1998, establishing it as Piedmont's premier white wine appellation

Cortese thrives in the rolling hills of southeastern Piedmont, specifically within the Gavi DOCG in the province of Alessandria, where a combination of continental and maritime influences creates ideal conditions. The appellation sits roughly 50 km north of Genoa, and cooling breezes from the Ligurian Sea moderate summer heat and preserve the grape's natural acidity. Vineyards are planted across 11 communes at altitudes ranging from 180 to 450 meters. Outside the Gavi DOCG, Cortese also appears in Piedmont's Cortese dell'Alto Monferrato DOC and Colli Tortonesi DOC, as well as in Oltrepo Pavese in Lombardy and in the Garda Cortese DOC near Lake Garda. A small number of experimental plantings exist in Australia.

• Gavi DOCG: approximately 1,600 hectares across 11 communes in Alessandria province, including Gavi, Novi Ligure, Serravalle Scrivia, and Tassarolo
• Three distinct soil types: Terre Bianche (limestone-clay marls, giving finesse and minerality), Terre Rosse (iron-rich red clays, giving structure), and Terre Miste (mixed marls and sands, giving balance)
• Climate combines continental features (cold winters, warm summers) with maritime moderation from Ligurian sea breezes
• Secondary Italian appellations include Cortese dell'Alto Monferrato DOC, Colli Tortonesi DOC, and Garda Cortese DOC near Lake Garda in Lombardy

Cortese wines are typically dry, light to medium bodied, and built around vivid acidity with a characteristic mineral quality. The aromatic profile centers on citrus fruits, green apple, white peach, and delicate floral notes, with a signature bitter almond note on the finish that is considered a hallmark of authentic Gavi. Wines from the Terre Bianche soils tend toward greater finesse and perfume, while those from Terre Rosse offer more body and structure. Premium single-vineyard and Riserva examples reveal greater complexity over time, developing honeyed and savory layers while retaining the grape's essential freshness and mineral tension.

• Primary aromatics: lemon, lime, green apple, white peach, honeydew, white flowers, and chamomile
• Palate characteristics: bright, high acidity, light to medium body, distinctive saline minerality, and a signature bitter almond finish
• Standard Gavi is best enjoyed young and fresh; Riserva and single-vineyard selections can develop complexity over several years
• Sparkling styles (Frizzante and Spumante, including Metodo Classico) are produced under the DOCG and showcase Cortese's naturally high acidity

The dominant winemaking style for Gavi emphasizes freshness and aromatic purity, achieved through temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Many producers follow fermentation with a period of lees aging, typically around six months, to add texture and complexity without masking the grape's character. Oak is rarely used in standard bottlings, though some producers experiment with barrique aging for select cuvees. The Gavi Riserva category, introduced in 2010, requires at least one year of refinement with a minimum of six months in bottle before release. Some estates, including Villa Sparina with its single-vineyard Monterotondo, have demonstrated that top Gavi can age gracefully for a decade or more.

• Standard approach: temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, followed by approximately six months on fine lees
• Oak usage: minimal in classic styles; select producers use barrique aging for premium single-vineyard or Riserva bottlings
• Gavi Riserva DOCG (introduced 2010): requires at least 12 months of refinement, with a minimum of 6 months in bottle
• Metodo Classico sparkling Gavi requires a minimum of 9 months of lees contact in bottle before disgorgement

La Scolca is the historic pioneer of the Gavi appellation, with the Soldati family having owned the estate since 1917 and registering the iconic Gavi dei Gavi trademark in 1969. Their Gavi dei Gavi Black Label, sourced from older vines in the Rovereto district, is one of the benchmark expressions of the DOCG. Broglia's La Meirana estate can trace documented viticulture to 972 AD and has been in Broglia family hands since 1972. Villa Sparina, founded by the Moccagatta family in the early 1970s, produces the sought-after single-vineyard Monterotondo Gavi from a historic plot dating to 1945. All three estates also offer accessible entry-level Gavi DOCG bottlings that reliably demonstrate the variety's essential character.

• La Scolca Gavi dei Gavi (Black Label): benchmark single-vineyard bottling from Rovereto, made from older vines, showcasing mineral intensity and citrus precision
• Broglia La Meirana Gavi del Comune di Gavi: produced from 100% Cortese with six months on lees, expressing characteristic almond and stone fruit
• Villa Sparina Monterotondo Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG: single-vineyard cru from vines dating to 1945, built for aging and noted for mineral depth
• Entry-level Gavi DOCG from any of these producers offers an excellent and affordable introduction to the Cortese grape

Cortese is a vigorous, productive vine with thin skins, which makes yield control an essential priority for quality-focused producers. Without careful management, the variety can yield large crops of dilute, characterless fruit. Its thin skins also make the grape sensitive to rot, requiring attentive canopy management to maximize airflow. Cortese ripens in late September, classified as a medium to late ripening variety. Across the Gavi DOCG, the Consorzio Tutela del Gavi has invested in monitoring stations and agronomic data collection to help producers respond to increasing climate variability, focusing on canopy management and precise harvest timing to protect the grape's signature acidity.

• Thin skins make Cortese sensitive to rot, requiring careful canopy management and leaf-pulling to maximize airflow
• Vigorous growth demands yield control; DOCG regulations limit still and sparkling styles to 95 quintals per hectare and Riserva to 65 quintals per hectare
• Cortese is a medium to late ripening variety, producing medium-large golden clusters that typically harvest in late September
• The Consorzio uses microclimate monitoring stations across the 11 communes to guide harvest timing and preserve the grape's natural acidity