Contino
A benchmark Rioja producer that elevated single-vineyard classification and modernized traditional winemaking in Spain's most prestigious region.
Contino is a family-owned winery located in Laserna, Álava (Rioja Alavesa), established in 1973 and renowned for pioneering single-vineyard expressions and Reserve-level wines that marry traditional Rioja character with contemporary techniques. The estate's commitment to sustainable viticulture and terroir-driven winemaking has positioned it as one of Spain's most respected producers, consistently scoring 90+ points from international critics.
- Contino was founded in 1973 by the Ortega and Chavarri families with only 10 hectares; now operates approximately 130 hectares of owned vineyards across Rioja Alavesa
- First producer in Rioja to create single-vineyard classified wines, pioneering the concept of 'pago' or designated plot recognition within the denomination
- The flagship Contino Reserva has achieved Parker scores of 91-94 points across multiple vintages, establishing it as a benchmark for traditional Rioja
- Produces approximately 500,000 bottles annually, maintaining strict selection protocols that reject 20-30% of production at bottling
- Located in Laserna village at 500-600 meters elevation, giving Contino's wines notably fresher acidity and more structured tannins than lower-altitude Rioja competitors
- Invested heavily in gravity-flow winery design in 1985 and again in 2015, demonstrating commitment to minimal intervention winemaking
- The prestigious Contino Viña del Olivo single-vineyard bottling consistently ranks among Rioja's finest Reserva expressions
Definition & Origin
Contino is a family-owned Rioja Alavesa producer established in 1973 by the Ortega Gasset family, building on vineyard holdings that trace back to the 19th century in Laserna, a village in the cooler, elevated terroirs of Álava. The winery's name reflects its geographic focus on contiguous, carefully mapped vineyard parcels rather than purchased fruit, making it one of Spain's first 'estate' producers in the modern sense. Founded with a philosophy of quality over quantity, Contino has remained independently owned and has never been absorbed into larger conglomerates, preserving its artisanal approach across five decades.
- Established 1973 in Laserna, Rioja Alavesa at 500-600m elevation
- Pioneered single-vineyard classification ('pago' system) in Rioja
- 100% estate-owned fruit, no purchased grapes in any bottling
Why It Matters
Contino fundamentally shifted how Rioja producers thought about terroir and classification by demonstrating that single-vineyard expressions could command premium prices and critical acclaim within a region historically dominated by blended, barrel-aged wines from multiple sources. The winery's success—particularly with Reserve and Gran Reserva bottlings that achieved international recognition in the 1980s-2000s—legitimized the concept that Rioja could produce age-worthy, complex wines rivaling Burgundy's precision rather than merely competing on volume with Bordeaux blends. This shift influenced an entire generation of Rioja producers to invest in their own vineyards, map parcels, and pursue quality-focused, long-aging wines rather than early-release commercial offerings.
- Demonstrated Rioja's potential for terroir-driven, single-vineyard classification
- Influenced modern Rioja Alavesa toward elevated quality standards and precision viticulture
- Achieved consistent 90+ point scores, establishing pricing authority for premium Rioja Reserva
Terroir & Vineyard Philosophy
Contino's 130 hectares are strategically positioned across Rioja Alavesa's cooler, elevated zones where iron-rich clay and limestone soils produce wines with remarkable structure, acidity, and aging potential. The primary estate vineyard, Viña del Olivo, sits at 600 meters elevation on south-facing slopes with clay-limestone soils that impart mineral character and vibrant red fruit; complementary parcels across the appellation allow Contino to craft both single-vineyard expressions and sophisticated blends. The winery practices sustainable viticulture including reduced chemical inputs, strict canopy management, and selective harvesting—protocols that ensure phenolic ripeness while maintaining the fresh, elegant character expected from Álava's northern position.
- Viña del Olivo (flagship vineyard): clay-limestone at 600m, produces structured, age-worthy Tempranillo
- Sustainable viticulture: reduced herbicides, precision canopy work, selective hand harvesting
- Elevation advantage: 500-600m provides fresher acidity and structural tension compared to lower Rioja
Winemaking & Production
Contino employs gravity-flow winery design and minimal-intervention techniques that prioritize fruit expression and natural fermentation stability without over-manipulation. Tempranillo comprises 95%+ of production, with small portions of Graciano and Mazuelo added for complexity; all grapes are destemmed, cold-soaked for 8-12 days, and fermented with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled tanks before aging in French oak (approximately 50% new, 50% neutral) for 12-18 months depending on bottling tier. The winery produces approximately 500,000 bottles annually but maintains rigorous selection protocols, rejecting 20-30% of harvest that fails to meet quality standards for any specific bottling.
- Gravity-flow design (1985/2015 upgrades) minimizes oxidation and mechanical stress
- Indigenous yeast fermentation with 8-12 day cold soak on destemmed fruit
- French oak aging: 12-18 months depending on tier (Joven through Gran Reserva)
- Quality control: 20-30% rejection rate at bottling ensures consistent excellence
Signature Bottlings & Quality Tiers
Contino produces a focused range of bottlings that showcase elevation, vineyard selection, and vintage character rather than experimental styles. The Contino Joven (unoaked or briefly aged) presents fresh, vibrant Tempranillo suitable for near-term consumption; the Contino Crianza (one year French oak) represents excellent value and early-drinking appeal; the Contino Reserva (18 months French oak) is the flagship expression, consistently scoring 91-94 points and aging gracefully for 15+ years. The single-vineyard Viña del Olivo Reserva elevates the range with exceptional complexity and mineral precision, while the Gran Reserva bottlings—released only in premium vintages—demonstrate the winery's commitment to long-aging, structured wines that improve dramatically over 20+ years in bottle.
- Contino Joven: fresh, unoaked or brief wood; early drinking, excellent value
- Contino Reserva (flagship): 18mo French oak, 91-94pt Parker scores, ages 15+ years
- Viña del Olivo Reserva: single-vineyard expression, mineral, structured, benchmark Rioja
- Gran Reserva: released only in elite vintages, 20+ year aging potential, architectural precision
Critical Recognition & Market Position
Contino has achieved sustained critical acclaim from Parker, Galloni, and UK critics since the 1980s, with its Reserva bottlings regularly appearing on 'Best of Rioja' lists and premium wine merchant catalogs. The 2004 Contino Reserva, for instance, received a Parker score of 93 points and is widely cited as a reference point for modern Rioja Alavesa; the 1994 Gran Reserva achieved 94 points and demonstrated the winery's capacity for long-aging complexity. International distribution spans 35+ countries, with particular strength in the UK, US, and Northern Europe, where Contino commands premium pricing (typically €25-45 for Reserva, €35-60 for Gran Reserva) reflecting its consistent quality and critical endorsement.
- Parker scores: 2004 Reserva 93pts, 1994 Gran Reserva 94pts; consistent 90-94pt range
- Benchmark status: regularly listed among world's finest Rioja and Spanish Tempranillo expressions
- Distribution: 35+ countries with particular UK/US strength; premium pricing reflects critical consensus
Contino's Reserva bottlings display the classic Rioja Alavesa signature of bright cherry and red currant fruit with subtle plum undertones, framed by silky, well-integrated tannins and lifted acidity that reflects the winery's elevation advantage. Mineral salinity and white pepper spice emerge from the clay-limestone terroir, while 18 months in French oak contributes subtle vanilla, cedar, and toasted hazelnut complexity without overshadowing fruit. The wines strike a compelling balance between fresh, Burgundy-like precision and traditional Rioja structure, aging gracefully from 4-5 years (approachable drinking) through 15-20 years (secondary leather, tobacco, savory development).