2023 Rhône Valley Vintage

After a historically dry winter (32 consecutive rainless days were recorded between January 21 and February 21, the most since records began in 1959), a cool and wet spring brought mildew pressure across the Northern Rhône, particularly in Cornas and Côte-Rôtie. June and July were largely moderate. Everything changed in August, when a 16-day heatwave (August 9-25) pushed temperatures to a peak of 41°C, causing younger vines to stall and even shed foliage. In the South, temperatures hit a record 43°C on August 22. The heat was followed in the North by a critical September 18 storm that deposited over 100mm of rain on Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Cornas, and Saint-Péray in a single day, forcing urgent harvest decisions across the region.

• Winter 2023 was historically dry, with 32 consecutive rainless days between January 21 and February 21, the most recorded since 1959
• A cool, wet spring brought mildew disease pressure, with Cornas and Côte-Rôtie among the most affected Northern Rhône appellations
• The August heatwave ran from August 9 to 25, with temperatures exceeding 32°C for 16 consecutive days and peaking at 41°C on August 22
• September 18 brought over 100mm of rain in a single day to Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Cornas, and Saint-Péray, while Côte-Rôtie further north received only around 20mm

Côte-Rôtie was the standout appellation of the 2023 Northern Rhône vintage. Spared the catastrophic September rains that fell on its southern neighbors, and blessed with ideal autumn conditions through mid-October, Côte-Rôtie producers were able to stretch their harvests across four weeks, allowing exceptional phenolic ripeness. The result is a set of wines described as fresh, varietally expressive, and hauntingly elegant. Hermitage also produced strong wines, particularly from the granite terroir of Les Bessards, though the September rainfall required rigorous sorting. Crozes-Hermitage was the most variable appellation, with nearly 200mm of rain falling in some areas on September 18. In the South, Châteauneuf-du-Pape delivered some of its most alluring recent wines, with old-vine Grenache weathering the heatwave far better than younger plantings.

• Côte-Rôtie: Standout appellation of the vintage; Jamet, Guigal, Rostaing, and Ogier among the top performers
• Hermitage: Granite terroirs of Les Bessards performed best; Jean-Louis Chave, E. Guigal, Chapoutier, and M. Sorrel led the pack
• Crozes-Hermitage: Most variable appellation due to extreme September rainfall, with close to 200mm in some parcels; careful selection was essential
• Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Old vines of Grenache proved their resilience; Beaucastel, Clos des Papes, Clos Saint-Jean, Domaine La Barroche, and Domaine Pierre Usseglio among standout performers

The 2023 Northern Rhône vintage rewarded producers who made decisive harvest choices. In Côte-Rôtie, Domaine Jamet, E. Guigal, Domaine Rostaing, and Stéphane Ogier produced wines of remarkable freshness and terroir expression. Jean-Paul Jamet described 2023 as a classic, aromatic vintage comparable in style to 2000, 2013, or 2016. Maxime Chapoutier noted that the slightly cooler year allowed wines to speak clearly of their place and identity, with the Hermitage cuvée l'Ermite showing trademark graphite, meat, and smokiness with a refreshing coolness. In Cornas, Domaine A. Clape, Domaine Vincent Paris, and Franck Balthazar were the standout names. In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the 2023 Vieux Télégraphe La Crau, a blend of 70% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, and 15% Syrah aged in large oak casks, drew high praise for its elegance and balance.

• Côte-Rôtie: Jamet, Guigal, Rostaing, and Ogier produced wines of freshness and elegant terroir expression that Jean-Paul Jamet likened in style to 2013 and 2016
• Hermitage: Chapoutier's l'Ermite cuvée stood out for graphite, smokiness, and cool-vintage precision; Chave and M. Sorrel also excelled
• Cornas: Domaine A. Clape, Domaine Vincent Paris, and Franck Balthazar were the most praised names in what was a mixed-quality appellation
• Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Beaucastel, Clos des Papes, Clos Saint-Jean, La Barroche, and Vieux Télégraphe produced wines receiving the strongest critical attention

The 2023 Northern Rhône Syrah wines are built for medium to long-term aging at the top level, though their moderate alcohol and fresh structures mean many will be more approachable in youth than the powerful 2022s. Côte-Rôtie from the top houses should be given at least five to eight years; the finest Hermitage wines will need a decade or more before opening. In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, critics at Vinous noted that while 2022s broadly require extended cellaring, the 2023 reds should shine earlier, though the finest are built to last. Entry-level Côtes du Rhône and Crozes-Hermitage from the vintage are approachable now and over the next several years.

• Top Côte-Rôtie (Jamet, Guigal, Ogier, Rostaing): Approachable from 2026-2028; peak drinking 2030-2040
• Top Hermitage (Chave, Chapoutier, Sorrel): Needs minimum 8-10 years; peak drinking window 2033-2050
• Châteauneuf-du-Pape top estates (Beaucastel, Vieux Télégraphe, Clos des Papes): More accessible than 2022; enjoyable from 2026-2028 with the best lasting well into the 2040s
• Côtes du Rhône and Crozes-Hermitage: Ready to drink now through approximately 2029-2030

The 2023 Northern Rhône reds are, on the whole, lighter in body than the majority of recent vintages, with the exception of 2021. They are balanced, approachable, and show good concentration, expressing terroir clearly in a way that warmer vintages sometimes obscure. Alcohol levels are moderate and generally sit below those of 2022, 2020, and 2019. Chapoutier's harvest notes confirm a pH range for Northern Rhône Syrah of 3.6 to 3.8 with fairly low total acidity but good freshness on the palate. In the South, the August 22 heatwave caused some defoliation in younger vines with shallow roots, while old-vine Grenache on deep soils remained resilient. The 30mm of rain and subsequent Mistral on August 26 helped restore freshness across the Southern Rhône.

• Northern Rhône reds are lighter-bodied than 2022 or 2020, with moderate alcohol; some wines required slight chaptalization
• Syrah pH in the Northern Rhône ranged from 3.6 to 3.8, with fairly low total acidity but good palate freshness
• In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, old-vine Grenache on deep soils withstood the August 22 peak heat of 43°C; younger vines on shallow soils suffered more
• White wines from both North and South benefited from very early picking to preserve aromatics and acidity, with Marsanne from the Northern Rhône showing surprising minerality

From a buying perspective, 2023 offers genuine excitement across both halves of the valley, but for different reasons. In the Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie is the clear priority: the appellation produced elegant, terroir-driven wines with genuine aging potential and avoided the dilution that affected parts of Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage following the September rains. Crozes-Hermitage requires producer-by-producer selection, with quality varying significantly depending on harvest timing. In the South, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape vintage offers wines that are more accessible than the more structured 2022s, making them an attractive option for collectors who want to drink within five to ten years rather than cellar for two decades. Top Châteauneuf estates represent reliable quality. Avoid over-extracted or poorly-sorted Northern Rhône wines from producers who harvested after the September 18 rains without rigorous selection.

• Côte-Rôtie is the top-priority Northern Rhône appellation in 2023; seek out Jamet, Guigal, Rostaing, and Ogier
• Crozes-Hermitage requires careful producer selection given the enormous variation in September rainfall impact across the appellation
• Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023 offers more approachable wines than 2022, with Beaucastel, Vieux Télégraphe, and Clos des Papes at the top
• Saint-Joseph delivered broadly good results, led by Jean-Louis Chave, Domaine Pierre Gonon, Chapoutier, and Yves Cuilleron