1990 Bordeaux Vintage

The 1990 growing season began with a pleasant winter and cool spring, pushing flowering to occur even earlier than in 1989. July and August were exceptionally hot and dry, making it the hottest summer on record at the time and the driest since 1961. A significant storm struck on September 15, bringing rain to all appellations, with Pessac-Léognan receiving the most. Far from being damaging, producers noted that the moisture arrived at the perfect moment, allowing grapes to reach even higher levels of ripeness and push sugar and potential alcohol upward. The harvest began on September 12, the earliest start of any vintage in the decade.

• Hottest growing season since 1947; August alone was the warmest on record, eclipsed only by 1928
• Driest summer since 1961, challenging free-draining gravel soils while benefiting clay and limestone terroirs
• September 15 storm brought timely rain that aided final ripening rather than causing dilution
• Early harvest date of September 12 set a record for the decade

One of 1990's defining qualities is that great wine was produced at every level across all appellations on both banks and in Pessac-Léognan. Saint-Émilion was widely recognized as the standout appellation, producing stunning wines at every tier. In Pomerol, estates situated closer to the Saint-Émilion border, such as Château L'Évangile and Château La Conseillante, excelled even beyond their 1989 efforts. On the Left Bank, Pauillac produced some surprises: Lynch Bages, Pichon Baron, and Grand Puy Lacoste outperformed the First Growths. Mouton Rothschild, whose deep gravel mounds can cause vines to struggle in hot, dry years, was considered one of the more uneven First Growth performers. Dry whites in Pessac-Léognan were also successful in 1990.

• Saint-Émilion: Standout appellation of the vintage; excellence at all price levels
• Pomerol: Estates near the Saint-Émilion border excelled; L'Évangile and La Conseillante both surpassed their 1989s
• Pauillac: Lynch Bages, Pichon Baron, and Grand Puy Lacoste led the appellation ahead of the First Growths
• Pessac-Léognan: Both red and dry white wines were successful across the board

The 1990 vintage generated several perfect 100-point scores from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. Château Montrose received its perfect score after a re-review following bottling, which caused its price to immediately double that of Cos d'Estournel at auction. Château Beausejour Duffau-Lagarrosse was another celebrated 100-point wine, with Parker later describing it as one of the great modern-day legends in Bordeaux. Château Margaux also achieved remarkable scores and ranked among the highest-rated wines in a blind tasting of Parker 100-point wines held years later. Beyond the top tier, producers such as Lynch Bages, Léoville-Las Cases, Ducru-Beaucaillou, and Troplong-Mondot all delivered exceptional expressions that offer compelling quality at a relative discount to the icons.

• Château Montrose: Awarded 100 points by Robert Parker after bottling, instantly doubling its auction price
• Château Beausejour Duffau-Lagarrosse: 100-point score; called by Parker 'one of the great modern-day legends in Bordeaux'
• Château Margaux: Among the highest-rated 1990s in subsequent comparative tastings of Parker 100-point wines
• Value tier: Lynch Bages, Léoville-Las Cases, and Ducru-Beaucaillou deliver outstanding quality at lower prices

One important and often underreported aspect of the 1990 vintage is its susceptibility to Brettanomyces, a spoilage yeast that was poorly understood at the time. The conditions of the vintage created a near-perfect environment for Brett growth: high pHs from lower acidity, abundant residual sugar, and increasing use of new oak barrels by ambitious producers. The most famous example is Château Montrose, which can be jaw-droppingly gorgeous or a disappointment depending on the specific bottle and the drinker's tolerance for Brett character. Buyers of 1990s, particularly from the secondary market, should be attentive to provenance and storage history, as Brett can worsen over time in poorly cellared bottles.

• Lower acidity and high pHs across the vintage created ideal conditions for Brettanomyces growth
• Château Montrose is the best-known example of a wine blighted by variable Brett expression bottle to bottle
• Brett was poorly understood in the early 1990s, meaning it was not systematically prevented at many estates
• Careful attention to provenance and storage is essential when purchasing 1990s on the secondary market

Most 1990 Bordeaux are now at or approaching full maturity, though well-stored examples from top estates continue to impress. The wines have long been described as rich, roasted, and velvety, with a beautiful purity of ripe fruit. Lighter examples from lesser estates should have been consumed by now, while the top classified growths and Right Bank icons are still drinking well and expected to continue developing through the mid-2020s and beyond for the finest bottles. Jancis Robinson has characterized the vintage as high-yielding, with wines that are rich, fleshy, and luxuriant, suggesting most should be drunk within the next several years rather than laid away further.

• Petits châteaux and lesser crus: Past optimal drinking and in decline; should have been drunk up
• Mid-tier classified growths: Now fully mature, on a drinking plateau offering excellent pleasure
• Top First Growths and Right Bank icons: Still drinking well through the mid-2020s with good storage
• Overall character: Rich, roasted, velvety textures with round tannins and a beautiful ripe purity of fruit

The hallmark of 1990 Bordeaux is an opulent, almost sensual richness combined with velvet-like tannins and concentrated fruit character. Common aromatics include ripe plum, blackberry, truffle, licorice, and roasted coffee notes, which with age develop into leather, tobacco, and earthy tones. The wines typically show lower acidity compared to the more structured 1989s, giving them an accessible, generous palate texture. Jancis Robinson's description captures it well: velvety texture and luscious, almost overripe fruit that tends to impose itself over geographical characteristics. The 1990 was for many years considered the best of the celebrated 1988-1989-1990 trio, though some critics now argue 1989 may be the superior vintage for long-term aging.

• Aromatics: Ripe plum, blackberry, truffle, licorice, roasted coffee; evolving to tobacco, leather, and earth
• Palate: Velvety, mouth-coating tannins with a generous, opulent mid-palate and persistent finish
• Structure: Lower acidity than 1989, giving earlier accessibility but slightly less structural tension
• Style comparison: More hedonistic and forward than 1989 at equivalent ages; luscious rather than austere

The opulent, velvety character of 1990 Bordeaux demands robust, richly flavored food to match its weight and concentration. The wines' earthy, truffle-like tertiary notes make them natural companions to classic Périgordian and Bordelaise cuisine. Aged and funky cheeses echo the wines' secondary complexity beautifully. Given the vintage's lower acidity relative to 1988 or 1989, avoid very acidic preparations that can make the wines seem flat; instead, lean toward butter-enriched sauces, slow-braised meats, and umami-rich dishes.

• Beef: Côte de boeuf with shallot and bone marrow butter; braised short rib with truffle jus
• Game: Venison, duck confit, and wild boar with rich reduction sauces amplify the wines' earthy character
• Cheese: Aged Comté, Époisses, and Reblochon complement the wines' leather and tobacco tertiary notes
• Avoid: High-acid accompaniments, vinaigrette-dressed salads, and lean preparations that clash with the wines' weight