1935 Vintage Port

The 1934 and 1935 vintages represent one of the most celebrated split declarations in Port history. A split declaration occurs when different major houses choose to declare one of two consecutive excellent years, reflecting genuinely strong quality in both. Some houses opted for 1934, which produced powerful, well-structured wines from an extremely hot growing season, while others declared 1935, whose more refined, elegant character appealed to different palates and market preferences. Noted Port authority Richard Mayson has observed that there is a consensus the latter year may just have the edge, though both are considered exceptional. Other confirmed split declarations in Port history include 1947/1948 and 1991/1992, underlining how rare such back-to-back quality is.

• Split declarations occur when major houses independently declare one of two consecutive excellent years, reflecting genuine quality in both
• 1934: extremely hot season producing rich, thick, powerful wines declared in small quantities, partly constrained by the economic pressures of the Great Depression
• 1935: classic, refined character with elegant sweetness, fruit richness, and good tannin structure appealing to those seeking finesse over power
• Other notable Port split declarations: 1947/1948 and 1991/1992, confirming how uncommon back-to-back exceptional harvests truly are

The 1935 growing season was defined by a prolonged summer drought that stressed vines and concentrated grape sugars. The dry spell was not relieved until September, when a small amount of rain fell just in time to ease the vines without damaging fruit quality. Harvest subsequently began on 23 September and continued in excellent conditions. Andrew James Symington, writing cellar notes on 14 October 1935, recorded his hope that the quality and colour of the wines might prove good enough to earn the status of a 'Jubilee Vintage,' noting that while quantity was lower than in 1934, quality appeared better. This contemporaneous documentation offers a rare primary source insight into how the trade evaluated the vintage in real time.

• Prolonged summer drought concentrated fruit sugars; drought broken only in September by light rain before harvest commenced
• Harvest began 23 September 1935, proceeding in ideal conditions that preserved fruit quality and colour
• Andrew James Symington's notes from 14 October 1935 express optimism about quality, explicitly comparing 1935 favourably to 1934 on quality grounds
• Lower yields than 1934 but superior quality: a common pattern in Douro viticulture where drought stress concentrates character at the expense of volume

The houses that declared 1935 produced wines of remarkable quality and longevity. Taylor's 1935 is consistently praised by serious collectors for its elegance and structural balance. Graham's 1935 earned 94 points from James Suckling, who noted its incredible richness, finesse, and full-bodied ripe cherry character with great balance. Sandeman's 1935 was bottled to commemorate King George V's Silver Jubilee, giving the wine an additional layer of historical significance. Cockburn's 1935 is widely regarded among the finest old bottles from that house, and Croft's 1935 has earned an almost legendary reputation among Port enthusiasts. Wine Spectator rated the 1935 vintage overall at 95 points, describing it as 'aromatic, refined and firmly structured,' while The Port Forum's vintage ranking gives 1935 five stars.

• Graham's 1935: 94 points (James Suckling) for richness, finesse, full-bodied ripe cherry character, and great balance
• Sandeman 1935: bottled to commemorate King George V's Silver Jubilee; noted for superb bouquet and long, vivid finish
• Cockburn's 1935 and Croft 1935: widely praised by serious collectors and tasters as among the finest expressions of the era
• Wine Spectator: 95 points for the 1935 vintage overall; The Port Forum: five-star rating, ranking 1935 among the elite vintages of the 20th century

The 1935 vintage is fully mature and has been so for several decades. Well-cellared examples continue to show impressive life, displaying good fruit and tannin integration with the lovely balance and elegance that have always defined these wines. Current tasting notes describe complex secondary aromas, silky textures, and a vibrancy that defies the wines' age when provenance has been sound. Bottle variation is a reality with wines of this age: inconsistency from bottle to bottle has been noted even for respected producers such as Taylor's, making provenance and fill level critical considerations for any buyer. Old Vintage Ports of this era should be opened with port tongs or carefully, given cork deterioration over nine decades, and decanted to allow secondary aromatics to develop fully.

• Fully mature for several decades; well-cellared best examples still show good fruit and tannin integration with balance and elegance
• Bottle variation is real at this age: even top producers show inconsistency, making provenance, fill level, and cellar history critical when purchasing
• Current notes describe complex secondary flavours, silky textures, and surprising vibrancy in well-stored examples
• Port tongs recommended for opening given nine decades of cork degradation; decanting advised to allow secondary aromatics to fully express

In 1935, Port production followed centuries-old methods. Grapes were foot-trodden in shallow granite lagares, a technique prized for its gentle but thorough extraction of colour and tannin without crushing seeds. Fermentation lasted approximately two to three days in the lagares before the addition of aguardente, a neutral grape spirit of around 77% ABV, which halted fermentation and preserved natural grape sugars. The resulting wines reached approximately 19 to 22% ABV. After the vintage, wines rested in traditional Port pipes, standard oak barrels of 550 litres, allowing slow maturation before eventual bottling. These wines were bottled while still young by modern standards, with significant further aging taking place in bottle rather than in cask.

• Grapes foot-trodden in granite lagares: gentle extraction of colour and tannin without seed crushing, the defining traditional technique of Vintage Port production
• Fermentation halted after approximately 2-3 days by addition of aguardente (neutral grape spirit at around 77% ABV), locking in residual sugar and raising ABV to 19-22%
• Maturation in 550-litre oak Port pipes before bottling; subsequent bottle aging accounts for the bulk of a Vintage Port's development over decades
• No temperature control, mechanical intervention, or modern cellar technology: 1935 represents the purely traditional era of Port winemaking

The 1935 vintage occurred roughly sixty years after phylloxera devastated the Douro Valley. The pest arrived in the region around 1868, and by the early 1870s had destroyed many of the valley's finest vineyards, ruining countless landowners and collapsing production. The solution, grafting Portuguese vine varieties onto resistant American rootstocks, began in earnest in the late 1870s and gathered pace through the 1880s. By the late 1890s, phylloxera had been largely brought under control, and the replanted vineyards gradually matured. By 1935, many of those grafted vines were 40 to 50 years old and at full productive maturity, capable of yielding the concentrated, complex fruit needed for benchmark Vintage Port. The 1927 and 1935 declarations, widely regarded as two of the finest of the 20th century, confirmed the Douro's complete recovery.

• Phylloxera arrived in the Douro around 1868; by early 1870s it had destroyed many of the valley's finest vineyards
• Replanting with American-rootstock grafted vines began late 1870s, gathering pace in the 1880s; phylloxera brought under control by the late 1890s
• By 1935, replanted vineyards were approximately 40-50 years old and at full productive maturity, yielding the quality fruit required for classic Vintage Port
• The 1927 and 1935 vintages are widely regarded as the two benchmark declarations of the interwar era, confirming the Douro's full recovery